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Door lock Actuator wiring questions


josh72ooh2
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For those that have put remote door actuators in their car...

I bought a 4 door actuator kit off e-bay (so i'd have extra actuators).

I plan to hook it up to a Viper alarm system (which is yet to be installed).

The Driver's door actuator has 5 wires coming from it. The other actuators have the typical 2 wires (green and blue).

Question 1

The actuator kit came with a small controller box. Is that to be used to connect to the alarm instead of wiring the actuators through 2 40amp relays?

Question 2

Why the 5 wires coming from the driver's door actuator?

I am hoping it is because the actuators can be controlled progressively - meaning that one click on the remote opens the driver's door, two clicks open both doors.

My Alarm manual says it can work progressively with cars that have existing progressive unlock systems...

Does anybody have progressive unlock actuators in their car?

These kits come with some wiring instructions but they are basic and refer to modern cars where these components exist already. Nothing talks about adding this stuff to a 38yr old car.

Thanks!

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I used the standard 2 wire ones in each door and gave each it's own relay, I wired it so that when I push the alarm button once the driver door opens and then a second time within 10 seconds it opens the passenger door.

The control box you got is probably just the relays in a neat little package.

I am not sure why there are 5 wires, maybe it is a system similar to a Ford or GM rest at ground system, kinda too complicated for our cars and since there will be no lock/unlock switch on the door it is really unnecessary.

I would just use 2 of the 2-wire ones in your car and 2 relays if you don't want progressive, 3 relays if you do (one for lock and one to unlock each door)

I can post a wiring diagram later if you like, it is on my computer at home.

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I would just use 2 of the 2-wire ones in your car and 2 relays if you don't want progressive, 3 relays if you do (one for lock and one to unlock each door)

I can post a wiring diagram later if you like, it is on my computer at home.

OK, even though i installed the 5 wire actuator already, i will only hook up the two wires.

I REALLY want progressive locks so i am not unlocking and locking a door unnecessarily. but i never would have thought of having to use 3 relays.

I would have thought it was controlled by the alarm's controller box somehow.

Can you Please post your wiring diagram or send it to me at jjwithers A T g mail?

Thanks!

-josh

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Does it work with only 2 of the 5 wires hooked up? if so good.

I dont think it will work that way. i purchase a kit 4 door kit as well, but never installed, my door locks were sticky and the actuators would get hung up. I did notice that the 5 wire actuator had to be used and if it did not open the others would not also.

i bought thinking i would have two spares as well, but in reality you only have two spares for the 2 wire actuators.

If i was to go back and install this kit i would wire up the 5 wire and NOT hook it to the lock on car, just attach inside door and install a 2 wire actuator to both doors, leaving 1 spare. why this way?

thinking that the 5 wire would never jam, being that it is not hooked to anything, thus it should last for quite a while. Leaving a spare if needed, then if needed hook up the five wire as a final 2nd spare.

Hope this helps,

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Thanks for the heads up on the 5 wire.

Unfortunately, my car is at a body shop so i can't confirm that the 5 wire will work by using just the blue and green wires. I assumed it would....

I have been going over there in my spare time and doing small tweaks (like adding the door poppers). Next time i go, i'll rig something up with some spare wire to test it before they put the door cards back on.

-josh

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Thanks a bunch for the diagram!

hopefully i can pick your brain a bit more for clarity...

Are all the 85s and 87s hooked into a constant 12v supply (from the battery)?

If it is a positive trigger, everything stays exactly the same except for the 85 going from positive to negative(ground)?

Attached is a clip from the alarm's manual. any idea if it is a positive or negative trigger?

Thanks!

post-15735-13667634510002_thumb.png

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Thanks a bunch for the diagram!

hopefully i can pick your brain a bit more for clarity...

Are all the 85s and 87s hooked into a constant 12v supply (from the battery)?

Yes, they all come from the same source, make sure the amperage is high enough to support both actuators.

If it is a positive trigger, everything stays exactly the same except for the 85 going from positive to negative(ground)?

Yes, to trigger the relay 85 and 86 need positive and negative inputs, it doesn't matter which are which, they are interchangeable. so if your alarm system is feeding positive into 86, then 85 needs to go to ground.

Attached is a clip from the alarm's manual. any idea if it is a positive or negative trigger?

Looks like a negative trigger if used in conjunction with my diagram (but you can test it both ways and it won't blow anything up, it just wont work)

It doesn't look like you have the ability to do the progressive locking with that alarm, there would be a third wire if you could. So in my diagram you would just eliminate the relay with the pink wire and split the blue wire to both actuators.

post-15735-13667634520766_thumb.jpg

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There is a third wire but it is for Viper's 451M which is the Viper brand actuator relay. I didn't know it existed and i'm considering buying it. It's only about $10. I can't find a diagram anywhere for it. It has a bunch of wires but i have no idea what they are for. If i get it, i'll have some Viper homework to do so i can figure everything out.

Attached is a photo of it and a screen shot of the alarm's manual saying that progressive unlocking is possible... i hope.

post-15735-13667634608409_thumb.png

post-15735-13667634610298_thumb.png

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I couldn't find any documentation for the 451m but it appears to be a set of solid state relays rated for 15amps (more than adequate for what you are doing) and for $10 it would be cheaper than buying 3 relays and maybe a little easier to wire.

Which model of Viper do you have? there should be a wire for "channel 3" that can be programmed for the passenger door (on some Vipers it is white/blue) that would be the wire to replace the pink wire on my diagram.

Also if you intend to have the parking lights flash you will need to get some diodes to keep the left and right parking light circuits separate.

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  • 3 months later...

Just an update for anybody who may stumble upon this thread and a BIG THANK you to Lane.

I finally hooked everything up last night using the 3 relays and not the 451m.

the white-blue wire is what goes to the 1st relay instead of Lane's pink wire.

After programming the alarm's brain, everything works.

1 click unlocks the driver's door.

2 clicks unlocks the passenger door.

whoohoo!

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what are you looking for exactly ? i am electronic designer for DEI (been an employee since 2000, now consultant at home for them), i have tons of literature about all DEI products and 25+ years of install experience...

Douph! Where were you BEFORE i started the project! Just kidding.

But i'm finished now and everything works fine.

I was looking for a way to get the viper 350 plus and the 451m to work with my added actuators.

I wanted the behavior to be one click, drivers door unlocks. 2 clicks, passenger door unlocks.

I couldn't figure it out but Lane's diagram with the 3 relays worked perfect.

-josh

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