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Still tracking down a vibration/growl...


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

After 32 years and 120k miles, the bushings are probably starting to get tired. What's the best check for this stuff? Maybe I'll be doing a front-end refurb instead of a 5-speed conversion this year...

-Dave

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Guest Anonymous

I'm getting new tires on new (straight) rims in the next couple of weeks, so I'll see if that fixes things. If it fixes both, the worn tires were likely causing the growl (worn from bad alignment last year; I'll keep a close eye for returning wear) and the bent rims were causing the vibration. I hope this is the way things happen.

If one or the other is still there, though...

If I still have the growl, I'll get an "expert" opinion at the WVa meet and probably change the front or rear wheel bearings or get the shop to do so.

If I still have the vibration, I'll have someone who knows what's good and bad check for either worn suspension components or something wonky in the driveline. Which one is ailing (I hope not both!) will determine whether I do a suspension refresh or the 5-speed swap.

Does that sound like a plan? Thanks for the help, everyone!

-Dave

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Guest Anonymous

The right control arm is slightly dented at about the midpoint (PO must have hit a rock or something) It's been that way since before the vibration happened, and I've been told that if it doesn't pull, the control arm is still OK. But could this be the vibration culprit? Dunno why it'd start suddenly, but you never know...

-Dave

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Guest Anonymous

This is what's happening on my buddy Ryan's 02 after a recent 5-speed install.

Make sure the foam is in decent shape.

-jaycen

72 tundra tii

72 agave 2002

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Guest Anonymous

Visually inspecting: Your ball joints are probably

riveted to your control arms, good sign they are

original, also you can see old rubber bushes

cracking on old cars. There will probably be play in

the tie-rods, ball joints, centerlink, and you may

see torn dust boots around the joints, showing a

lack of any grease inside, or even worse, a worn

out socket. I have to find this pic of a ball joint I was

driving around on. First of all, it was fused to the

steering arm, but it was worn out so bad, you could

almost pluck the top part out of the joint!

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Guest Anonymous

...checking for play? The vibration feels more rear-end than front-end, actually, checking with my hands and butt on a drive last night -- it came through my butt more than my hands on the steering wheel. I hope it's just a bent rim, though a worn u-joint would make a dandy supporting argument for the 5-speed swap.

Thanks!

-Dave

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Guest Anonymous

My 325is had a vibration at certain speeds that I thought for sure was tires until I went to a good local alignment/balancing shop and the guy told me it was actually my driveshaft. It felt for all the world like it was coming through the front end but really it was through the seat/floor. Think about center bearing or other d-shaft problems maybe?

Tim

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Guest Anonymous

try turning the driveshaft (tranny in neutral of course) back and forth. Watch the U-joint and also place your hand on the diff's input flange to see if you can feel some slop. If you hold the input flange and can move the driveshaft forward of the U-joint, the U-joint's worn. To make doubly sure, if you can safely jack the car up and support on stands (on a hard surface, NOT gravel) start the engine, put it in second gear (at idle or perhaps 1000-1500 rpm) and observe the driveshaft as it turns. A worn U-joint will manifest itself as a wobble in addition to the sound. Just be careful doing this.

Cheers

Mike

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