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Door Brake Question


mcaden
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I bought a set of Colin's door brakes about a year ago. Shortly after I installed them, the door brake bracket on my driver's side wore out. I think the tension of the nice new door brake was simply too much for the old metal bracket. The old door bracket was recently replaced with an OEM new door bracket. Upon reinstalling the door brake into the new bracket, it now pops when I open and close the door. The popping noise is not a result of the bracket moving or weak door jamb metal. Instead, the popping noise is a result of the door brake screw/bolt moving around inside the bracket (and being a little too small for the hole; e.g., the screw is too small for the bracket). How can I prevent this? Is there a nylon sleeve I can put over the screw/bolt?

I tried using an OEM pin with Colin's door brake, but it was too big for the hole in the brake. Any other suggestions? Thanks much.

-Marc Caden

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back and forth in the bracket when under tension.

Some thoughts:

1. ream out the hole in the new check strap so that the OEM pin will fit, and then use the OEM nylon sleeve for a nice tight fit.

2. sleeve the pin holes in the door bracket so the bolt is a tight fit. Many hardware stores have bronze flanged sleeve bearings in various sizes that should work.

3. visit your hardware store with bolt in hand and find some semi-rigid or flexible vinyl tubing that can be used as a sleeve on the bolt to tighten its fit.

Post what you find. I have a couple of those check straps I haven't installed yet and would like to know how you solved the problem

cheers

mike

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I am having exactly the same problem with Colin's door brakes. I have tried repeatedly to contact him about a solution to the problem, but he hasn't responded at all--he is just simply DOA. I, too, will try the sleeving/bushing approach to see if that will work.

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I am having exactly the same problem with Colin's door brakes. I have tried repeatedly to contact him about a solution to the problem, but he hasn't responded at all--he is just simply DOA. I, too, will try the sleeving/bushing approach to see if that will work.

I wouldn't fault Colin on the door brake "popping" issues. This seems to be a common fault with the replacement parts. My new door brakes from Autohaus AZ did the same thing (only on the driver's side). This may be due to the ovaling out of the pin holes in the A-pillar bracket over time.

I recently installed a set of the pin bolts with nylon hardware from Shipmate (William Scheibner in San Diego) and they work much better.

Be careful with the U-shaped bracket on the A-pillar - it will break free from inside the door. Mine will eventually break free.

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I am having exactly the same problem with Colin's door brakes. I have tried repeatedly to contact him about a solution to the problem, but he hasn't responded at all--he is just simply DOA. I, too, will try the sleeving/bushing approach to see if that will work.

I also tried contacting Colin at least for suggestions on how to remedy and received no response. As Jim G suggests, this may not be a problem with Colin's door brakes, but I thought he might have some suggestions on how to remedy.

Jim G: Could you email me or post more specific information on what you purchased in order to try to address the problem? Do you have pictures?

Thanks, Marc

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Guest Anonymous

I purchased a set of AutohausAZ door brakes and ready for installation. I remember a previous post that the pushrod had to be shortened 1/2" for the door to click into desireable position. Is 1/2" a correct amount or do I have to measure it on my car? I'm planning on cut and weld to set the correct length.

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Jim G: Could you email me or post more specific information on what you purchased in order to try to address the problem? Do you have pictures?

Thanks, Marc

Here you go Marc. Both Marshall Lytle and I have these in our cars.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,323755/highlight,door+brake+pins/

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I purchased a set of AutohausAZ door brakes and ready for installation. I remember a previous post that the pushrod had to be shortened 1/2" for the door to click into desireable position. Is 1/2" a correct amount or do I have to measure it on my car? I'm planning on cut and weld to set the correct length.

I don't recall a modification requirement. Mine work OK.

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