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MikeWooldridge
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Been all over the search and everythings checks out that I can read.

This problem is on my '74tii, vin 2780046. It will not start.

What caused it is a mystery. It was running before I replaced the warm-up regulator on the back of the kugelfischer. That surely has nothing to do with it not starting.

I've put in a known to work coil.

I've replaced the plugs and plugwires with known to be good.

I've replaced the pertronix with points and set them.

It will not fire up. Getting gas...no spark.It turns over nicely with a fully charged battery, and the red/black wire is attached to the starter.

With the key on and fuel pump operating:

Voltage reads 7.30 at + on the coil with red/black and clear wire attached.

Voltage reads 0 on red/black when disconnected.

Voltage reads 11.5 on clear when disconnected.

I don't have an assistant to turn the key while I check voltage.

Please help if you can.

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1. If you have low (12) voltage at the coil and yet there's no spark, and you know the coil is good, is is the low voltage wire connecting coil to dizzy, then start looking at the high (plug) voltage side for problems.

2. Pull the coil-to-dizzy high voltage wire at the dizzy end, turn the engine over and see if you get a spark when you hold the coil wire near a good ground (like the valve cover). If you do...

3. Pop off the dizzy cap and look at the little carbon button that connects the cap to the rotor. It is spring loaded and should move in and out. If it doesn't or is missing, that's your problem. If it's OK....check the rotor to make sure it's seated properly, isn't cracked etc. Then...

4. Check to see if the points are opening as you turn the engine over by hand (put in gear and roll back and forth). Is there a .015 or .016 gap? Are the points excessively pitted/burned?

5. How old is the condenser. They don't fail very often, but if you're still running convetional points (no CD system or the like) if the condenser dies, no spark--or your points will be very quickly burned/eroded.

6. After you've done this, try seeing if you get a spark at a plug by connecting a plug wire to a spark plug that's laying atop the valve cover. Turn the engine over and see if there's a nice fat blue spark. A wimpy yellow one isn't good enough.

Post what you discover...

cheers, and happy troubleshooting

mike

PS--you are getting gas, aren't you? And it's not flooded...

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Some good ideas in posts above, all I can suggest is if you don't have some jumper clips to connect the voltmeter, get some. Go to radio shack web site & type jumper clip in the search. I use these all the time at work with my voltmeters, except I build my own jumper clips from better clips & better wire. If working on a car, position the meter so you can see it while reaching in to turn the key.

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May be you disconnected by mistake some of the wires on the starter or the alternator when you were installing the warm up regulator? Check the all the wiring around those areas. Also check the wiring to cold start valve and tii timer, I am sure you have a disconnected some wire somewhere (+ or ground). That's all I can think of.

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Feel if the coil gets warm. If it doesnt you have no current flow. The points opening is the spark as the EM field collapses. Closing points lets the field build. In my case problems like this are usually someting stupid I did. ex:wrong wire. A common problem is also you may have voltage but not enough current to keep the correct voltage. As was said before you need to extend your test leads. Let us know what you find. Also remember the tach is connected to the distributor....

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All thoughts are very interesting, and I'm sure someone will be glad we posted this someday.

Now for the culprit. Remember the square peg in the round hole that was discussed last week? Well, the condenser and thus the points were grounding out on the inside of the distributor, touching the wall. Now, remember this is temporary...I ran a longer wire out the hole and mounted the condenser on the firewall.

FIRED RIGHT UP.

Now, for all of us who love pertronix, I'm not going to listen to the Razorbacks on the radio when I''m working on the car. Unless I wire the radio to a source where I won't fry another pertronix.

THANKS, EVERYONE...now to something else!

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All thoughts are very interesting, and I'm sure someone will be glad we posted this someday.

Now for the culprit. Remember the square peg in the round hole that was discussed last week? Well, the condenser and thus the points were grounding out on the inside of the distributor, touching the wall. Now, remember this is temporary...I ran a longer wire out the hole and mounted the condenser on the firewall.

FIRED RIGHT UP.

Now, for all of us who love pertronix, I'm not going to listen to the Razorbacks on the radio when I''m working on the car. Unless I wire the radio to a source where I won't fry another pertronix.

THANKS, EVERYONE...now to something else!

I see you aren't the only one with a tii that has these kinds of problems. Congrats on the discovery and reward yourself with a cold one!

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All thoughts are very interesting, and I'm sure someone will be glad we posted this someday.

Now for the culprit. Remember the square peg in the round hole that was discussed last week? Well, the condenser and thus the points were grounding out on the inside of the distributor, touching the wall. Now, remember this is temporary...I ran a longer wire out the hole and mounted the condenser on the firewall.

FIRED RIGHT UP.

Now, for all of us who love pertronix, I'm not going to listen to the Razorbacks on the radio when I''m working on the car. Unless I wire the radio to a source where I won't fry another pertronix.

THANKS, EVERYONE...now to something else!

I see you aren't the only one with a tii that has these kinds of problems. Congrats on the discovery and reward yourself with a cold one!

and a cuban!

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