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3M Panel Adhesive -vs- Riveting (or other)


markmac
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Pretty sure I know the answer to this, but thought I would throw it out there. Soon I will be back on the front fenders of the ALPINA car (great story coming on this one), so the fenders aren't full fenders, they need the framework of the OE steel fender to be bonded on to. ALPINA originally riveted these on - common in those days. Now we have all the super trick adhesives/epoxies that are from what I have read far superior to any other sort of mechanical fasteners (rivets or other) and concurrenc on this?

http://www.alpinabmw2002.com/

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The body shop that mounted my flares used this black two part epoxy. Todd at the shop said it was what they glue the carbon fiber roofs on with. I think he said parts of the Audi A8 are glued together with this stuff. It was around 200 a cartridge and I think my car used three of them. I was worried about the flare bond cracking. He said the actual flare would crack and break away long before this stuff would.

John

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From reading the Locost boards (scratch-built cars), a popular method right now is to use both rivets and an adhesive like Scotchweld #2216, Loctite # 326 or 3MPanel Bonding Adhesive #8115. You might even be able to use counter-sunk rivets which would mount flush.

Ian

'76 M2

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My rear flares are very thin too. When they were sanding them and building up low spots they were breaking through in certain spots. They'd have to build up the area and start sanding again. To get "racing" flares to look good on a street car, you have to do a lot of work and it pays to have someone who know's what they are doing.

Good luck.

John

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We use the 3M 8115 adhesive at the shop whenever possible its good stuff, really strong. We use it for door skins and bedsides on trucks with a few weld spots just in case. We also use it to repair damaged fiberglass, its much cleaner and no airborne mess.

But its usually about $40 a cartridge and 3 or 4 sound correct so maybe he meant $200 for all of them.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-automix-panel-bonding-adhesive-08115-p-11230.aspx

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+1 on the 3M PBA. Just be generous with it and spread it around on your bare metal and the fiberglass to be installed. I used it sparingly on the first rear quarter flare I bonded and I sanded through it. I'll have to add some to fill the gap and then feather it gingerly. The 2nd flare went great. Great stuff though.

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