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car still wont start.


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updated 11/1

73 roundie.

ok, car still wont start but i did check a few things,

i went to check the spark, and i got nothing. pulled the dizzy cap to test the vacuum line that goes through the diaphram. i get no movement when i sucked on it. got a small spark when i moved the points apart. but no spark comming out of the main wire to the car either.

the rotor spins when i crank the engine

the rotor in the dizzy doesnt seem to line up with any of the plug wire conection points though. im wondering if the diaphram failed and the rotor is out of place somehow. dont know if that is possible.

any more thoughts?

Last edited by flyingfool on 11-1-10 06:04; edited 1 time in total

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by main wire i meant the one that goes from the coil to the dizzy cap. just to clear up confusion.

and, im curious, if my vaccumm advance is busted, and it seems like it is, could the car theoreticly start or run? i want to narrow down this prob instead of shot guning it as usual haha

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Guest Anonymous

Using a voltmeter on coil positive terminal should be +12v with key on in start and run. On negative terminal should fluctuate between 0 and 12 with engine cranking. This will tell you that you have +12 and points are working. Do you still have the bypass resistor in the circuit? If so check the wiring to the resistor and relay.

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If you take your distributor cap off and open and close the points with a small screwdriver, you should be able to get the coil to fire off. Take the coil spark wire off the distributor cap and arc it to ground carefully and open and close the points. Look carefully at the points to be sure they are not pitted and that the rub block that hits the distributor cam has not worn down to where it won't open and close the points. If you have 12v going into the coil and the points are functioning and still no spark then either the coil is bad or the condensor. You may want to use something nonmetallic like a popsicle stick to open and close the points.

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Look at the center terminal inside the dizzy cap. It's a little black carbon button on a spring, so it always touches the brass contact on the center of the rotor.

If the button doesn't move in and out when you press it, or if it looks broken (not smooth on the end) or is missing, that's your problem. That's how the spark gets from the coil to the proper spark plug wire as the rotor turns--no contact; no spark.

Check it out. Mine jammed in the cap and it took me two hours to find the problem. Now it's the first thing i check!


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hmm, went down and grabbed a new cap, but they didnt have the right set of points (left hand right hand?? TII im guessing) and no condenser. anyway, tried a few suggestions. coil has 11.8 volts going to it. seems ok to me. but, when i crank the engine, only went down to 10.2 ish.

when im cranking, should i see the points opening and closeing?

and, this little block that was mentioned is under the dizzy plate correct? i couldnt see anything above that seemed like it was opening the points.

tried arcing the spark wire to a ground and opening points didnt do a thing.

bad coil AND points!!?? in one go?? arrg

thanks again!

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