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WTF. caR. wont run or even start. UPDATE! still nothing.


flyingfool
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first off. 73 roundie. running weber 32/36 carb. running a solinoid

i started my car up, it had a hell of a time getting going, then it wouldnt idle. it would run at a fast idle for a bout five secs then just sorta fade and die, like it was running outa gas. i had to get going so i messed with the mixture screw, and got it to idle really rough but the mix screw was WAY out, really rich, but the car ran. anyway, finally got around to trying to fix it. I checked the float, set it to 1 3/4 max drop. (as i dont have a MM gauge.) and reset to basline settings, and now car wont even start up. i hear a bit of a fire once in a while. but really im just flooding and killing my battery. i checked my plugs, they were wet, but not blocked, and they are fresh. the only thing that i can thinmik of not fuel related is that i still have to start my car directly to the starter, as i cant figure out why it wont start with the key and no ones been able to help me.

so im kinda lost, i need this car to run again asap.

or go pay big $$ to have someone diagnose it!

updated 11/1

ok, i went to check the spark, and i got nothing. pulled the dizzy cap to test the vacuum line that goes through the diaphram. i get no movement when i sucked on it. got a small spark when i moved the points apart. but no spark comming out of the main wire to the car either.

the rotor spins when i crank the engine

the rotor in the dizzy doesnt seem to line up with any of the plug wire conection points though. im wondering if the diaphram failed and the rotor is out of place somehow. dont know if that is possible.

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1. Make sure you're getting reliable spark--pull a plug, connect it to its wire, lay it on the valve cover and hit the starter. Anything other than a nice regular blue spark isn't acceptable. Once you know you have fire...

2. Dry the plugs and/or get all the excess gas out of the cylinders so that flooding won't mask the real problem.

3. Check your vacuum lines and ports carefully for leaks, cracked hoses, loose carb, etc. Disconnect the vacuum advance hose and suck on it. You should feel resistance and (with the cap off) see the point plate move. Once you're convinced there are no vacuum leaks...

4. Try starting the engine normally. If it doesn't start in a few seconds, try starting fluid. If it starts now, then there's a fuel feed problem. If not, go back to #1 and check your ignition. While it's unlikely the timing has slipped, the points could not be fully opening, the dizzy cap is cracked etc.

5. After some more cranking, look down the carb throat to see if there's gas running into the throat from the float chamber vent. If so, either the needle valve is stuck or the float is bad/sunk/set wrong.

If none of that works, let us know and we'll do some re-thinking....

Happy troubleshooting

mike

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I'm new to the '02 scene, ....so I'll beat CD to the punch. Did you confirm you have good compression? Do a compression test on all cylinders. Also, are the valves adjusted? There are links here w/ extensive info on how to do both...These are the baselines before going to the timing/dwell, carb/gas/spark checks mentioned above. Good Luck!!

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Check your #12 fuse! If it's blown the solenoid wont open... Ask me how I know. ALSO check your connections to the solenoid and make sure you're not shorting any circuits.

I agree, it is acting like the solenoid is not opening. Won't idle, runs crappy. Sometimes the wire breaks at the solenoid. If that is the problem, it is a simple cheap fix. Sometimes just "spinning" the fuse solves the problem. HTH

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well, i didnt check spark. when you say lay it on the cover, you mean on its side? like ---

or vertical with cap pointing down like /

as for compression, when the engine runs well its good compression. i have numbers from a few years ago. thats ok still.

fuse, prety fresh. just changed em a month or so ago.

heres the kicker. i posted a while back about no brake lights / wipers (# 12 fuse right) well, now i have wipers! but no start.

i did try runing the carb with another jet without the solinoid.

i see lots of gas moving down there. after all the cranking the gasket gets pretty wet. and i did get a giant back fire out of the carb.

im begining to think a short might be the cause. the engine will fire on one or two cylinders randomliy. i can fieel it try to catch, then just goes back to cranking. i have noticed that when the ignition is on, ill hear a small click, on and off at some what random intervals. its small, sounds like the solinoid on the carb does when you conect it back up....

how would i begin to track down a short? i have volt meter

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