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Solid Clutch Disc and Adjustment there of...


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'02 Amigos,

Installed the Ireland solid clutch disc in my car, love the bite, however...

My clutch disengage is right near to the top of the pedal. Yes the system is bled very nicely. IF it weren't I'd be whining about it not disengaging or it being at the bottom of the pedal.

Does the Solid Disc take a different t/o bearing? I went with the stock height bearing, now wondering if since the disk appears thinner it requires a different t/o bearing.

If not, I suppose I'd better look to see if the length on the slave cylinder rod is adjustable, but I don't think that it is on my car ('76 stock 4spd).

Everything else is hooked up nominally (return spring, etc....)


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Big Dog I am not familiar with the disk you have but.

You stated your solid hub disk was noticeably thinner and as the clutch lever ratio is generally around 5 to 1 meaning if the compressed thickness of the "stock" disk .050 greater than the solid disk the levers could hypothetically be .250 farther out.

Sorry I think in inches.

The lever ratios are consistent with domestic 10 and 11 inch Long, Borg & Beck, and diaphragm type clutches. The end result is the same regardless if it is a 215mm or 10" clutch, thinner disk will place the bearing farther back on the input (candlestick)

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OK Arguing with myself again...

T/O Bearing shouldn't have an impact, because if anything you'd want a shorter one, which seems unlikely.

The way I figure, it makes sense that the clutch disengages sooner if it's infact thinner, the pressure plate lets the clutch disc loose with less travel.

So, either I take the pedal down farther, which still leaves the release point at the top of the hydraulic pressure, or figure out how to take some throw out of the slave cylinder.

If I shorten the slave cylinder pushrod, in theory, it would take the internal piston pushing further to disengage the clutch. Make sense?

The question, which remains unanswered, until I look under the car, is whether or not that's possible without having to "modify" (eg cut and grind) the rod coming out of the slave cylinder.

Anybody have this experience?


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If you have the disc without the wave spring in the middle

(often known as 'solid puck)

then yes, you actually need very little travel. And the BMW hydraulics

will adjust that toward the top of the pedal.

I actually run a .625" master AND limit its travel. It's almost a switch,

with engagement happening in maybe 3/4" of travel.

The normal clutch discs get compressed maybe 3/16" inch as you release

the pedal, thus 'lengthening' it...

what I've found,


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Toby & Steve, Thanks!

I knew somebody had to be running these. The location on the pedal travel is merely an ergonomic thing. I'm going to go ahead and run the pedal down so that the engagement is lower in the car.

I'll also figure out some sort of pedal stop, that's a brilliant idea, will really save wear and tear on the pressure plate by not over extending it too far beyond the amount necessary to disengage the clutch.

Yes indeed it is like a switch, the faster shifts are great, just need to get the right feel on my foot!


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It takes a little getting used to. But after a little bit of time i can now even slip my 5.5" 2 disk race clutch with a pedal that only has a couple inches of travel.

I replaced a couple pedal box bolts with longer ones and added a bar between them to create a clutch stop. Sorry, no photos right now.

steve k.

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