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weber 32/36 jetting


mikea

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hello. new 2002 owner 1974

I bought a new 32/36 from weber direct

it was not part of a conversion kit, because i wanted one with a manual choke.

(my old solex has a choke cable in the dash)

now I am thinking, maybe it is not jetted for my engine.

i don't mind rejetting it if it's not correct

1 what are the chances it will just work out of the box?

2. how do I find out what all the jet/ tube sizes should be ?

mike

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with perhaps, but not necessarily some fooling with it, the chances of it working out of the box are great

you have to remove the jets to find out what size you have...each jet's marked...and good luck reading the tiny writing

i've bought a few new carbs that only required setting the idle and mixture and i was good to go

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I posted on what I got from the Webet website last month.

I didn't take the cover off the carb but the jets I could see said 160 and 170.

You have to take a little cover off to see the others, these jets are visible just looking at it.

I bought the ultimate garage conversion adapter to use the old air cleaner and just discovered it was too high and the air cleaner put a dent in the hood. Someone suggests making your own converter out of closed cell foam which I thought was weatherstripping

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you can easily tell what idle jets you have by removing the brass screw on either side of the carb...once removed, pull the jet out of the tube it's in...the numbers are on those as well

the simply way to use your stock cleaner is cut the bottom to fit the weber then seal it with foam as described...and ditch the too tall adapter

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no - your going to install the carb as is,

drive it 200 miles, and then report back,

....about cold, warm-up, partial throttle, full throttle

highway crusing with light on-off throttle - making

notes and reporting your fiinding on how smooth,

hesitating, or stumbling, or seems just right before you change

any jets. You then remove the carb top to read the main jet

numbers and then we go from there with recomendations.

SO Mount it, drive it, set the timing with a timing light,

leave the timing once it it set ("BALL" mark in the

inspection hole at 1500 rpm while no vacuum is

applied to the distributor) and get back to us .

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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  • 1 year later...

CD

Was looking at your 32/36 pescription and was sobering what are the spdcs on your motor. My cousin has 9.5-1 cr with 284 cam in a motor he just bought. He's out of funds to do the dcoe. So for now we will rebuild his 32/36 and hope to get it working correctly in the meantime.

Any advice is highly appreciated.

Thanks again,

Le

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IT WAS:

1976 striped of all emission control devices

stock block and head guts

Supersprint tubular header, stock resonator,

Supersprint 'small' muffler, new mechanical

advance distributor

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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  • 3 years later...

I wish I'd found this thread before my 32/36 was in pieces in a bucket, but I'm going to go ahead and share what I found in my '71 1/2:

 

Primary: Idle-55, Main-160, Air-170

Secondary: Idle-50, Main-150, Air-160

Enrichment hole not plugged, mech only distributor 002.

 

Car has no power over 45 mph, and has smoked intermittently...sometimes a lot. Refreshing most of the ignition system and cleaning all the engine ground, starter, and alternator connections helped with the black cloud when I hit the gas. But if the temp gauge gets much over halfway, it smokes on decel, and this happens more often than not if I put it on the highway. It also fouls plugs badly, especially #4.  Of course, timing issues could cause some of that, and I was trying to time it to the ball at 2500, not sure if the tii distributor meant I needed to follow the tii procedure.

 

I got the car pretty cheap, thinking I'd swap in an M42, but now I am not sure I want to go that route.  I would like to at least be able to drive it for a while in stock form to get an idea how much power I really need/want.  I'm used to MGBs and E36s...wasn't prepared for just how light the 02 is.

 

To that end...the carb was pretty nasty. All the linkages were sticky, and the main jets were pretty gunked up. It did need the rebuild kit.  But comparing the jets I have to the prescription, I wonder if someone switched the primary and secondary for the main and air jets.

 

All that to ask these two questions (for now):  Should I put it back together just like I found it, or switch the jets I have to be closer to the prescription?  And should I plug that hole while I'm at it?

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11 hours ago, Tripp72 said:

I wish I'd found this thread before my 32/36 was in pieces in a bucket, but I'm going to go ahead and share what I found in my '71 1/2:

 

Primary: Idle-55, Main-160, Air-170

Secondary: Idle-50, Main-150, Air-160

Enrichment hole not plugged, mech only distributor 002.

 

Car has no power over 45 mph, and has smoked intermittently...sometimes a lot. Refreshing most of the ignition system and cleaning all the engine ground, starter, and alternator connections helped with the black cloud when I hit the gas. But if the temp gauge gets much over halfway, it smokes on decel, and this happens more often than not if I put it on the highway. It also fouls plugs badly, especially #4.  Of course, timing issues could cause some of that, and I was trying to time it to the ball at 2500, not sure if the tii distributor meant I needed to follow the tii procedure.

 

I got the car pretty cheap, thinking I'd swap in an M42, but now I am not sure I want to go that route.  I would like to at least be able to drive it for a while in stock form to get an idea how much power I really need/want.  I'm used to MGBs and E36s...wasn't prepared for just how light the 02 is.

 

To that end...the carb was pretty nasty. All the linkages were sticky, and the main jets were pretty gunked up. It did need the rebuild kit.  But comparing the jets I have to the prescription, I wonder if someone switched the primary and secondary for the main and air jets.

 

All that to ask these two questions (for now):  Should I put it back together just like I found it, or switch the jets I have to be closer to the prescription?  And should I plug that hole while I'm at it?

 

 

This forum has jetting advice and carburetor threads, ad nauseam.  The prescription is purely a "baseline."  Like Goldilocks, some find it too lean, some too rich and some just right.  At best, your description of the engine condition is vague.  We know little about its vitals, e.g., mileage, compression, valve train (including properly adjusted valves), modifications, other than distributor and carburetor.  We do know that smoke on deceleration typically indicates valve seals and guide wear, but it could mean more.  Installing a carburetor without information regarding chokes and jets and emulsion tubes, hardly guarantees a specific air-fuel mixture.  Similarly, a mechanical distributor does not, in and of itself, guarantee a specific advance curve, since that can be modified and can change with the passage of time.  You assume it is a "tii" curved distributor, but is it?  Without knowing more, timing per the "BigDog" method makes about as much sense as anything to establish another "baseline."

 

"Pretty nasty" and "gunked up" does not say much about the condition of the carburetor other than cosmetics.  If it is warped and has been used as a door stop that is another kind of nasty - as in replacement.  "Gunked up" so that it interferes with adequate metering of air and fuel is something else that a can of carb cleaner should easily remedy.  (Since you mentioned MGB. are you aware that the same Weber 32/36 or a variant has been successfully adapted by some for use on that very model?)

 

If you have assorted jets available, I would consider smaller main and air jets, closer to the "prescription."  Putting the smaller jets you possess in the primary side is probably a step in the right direction.  However, I doubt using the jets you mentioned, in any combination, would prevent the engine producing power beyond 45mph.  It probably would result in a very rich condition and less-than-optimum operation, but not prevent fair operation beyond 45mph (as you describe it).  Something as simple as a poorly installed/seated auxiliary venturi can interfere with proper carburetor function.  The same with a vacuum leak, or a maladjusted float or a failing fuel pump.  You mentioned sticky linkage.  Could it be that the linkage was poorly adjusted or functioning so as to prevent the throttle from fully opening?    If your "refreshing" of the ignition system and electrical grounds "helped with the black cloud" maybe, the only problem left uncorrected is fuel delivery.  But if you have still have questions regarding the ignition timing, then maybe not.  Hint: an overly rich mixture generally benefits from more advance, or it least the engine is more tolerant of it.  Spark plugs with an incorrect heat range can lead to fouling (black cloud) too.

 

As you your last question, plugging an enrichment hole, I doubt it will have much of an effect on your engine's overall operation.  If you are going to reinstall things with the jets you have, it probably couldn't hurt, but neither would changing wiper blades.  Maybe it is best described as a "tweak."  Nevertheless, the modification is hardly necessary for a satisfactory running engine.

 

Bottom line?  Depending upon the results of a compression test. reinstall the properly rebuilt carburetor with smaller jets in primary side and use basic tuneup settings as a starting point.  Experiment from there.

 

 

 

exploded_weber_2.jpg

 

 

1972_MGB.jpg

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And for those with sync-link.... I was talking to a friend about my 32/36 (sync-link), and how sync-link has always given everyone fits with hesitation. And everyone dicks around with jetting (I didn't.  I just relearned how to drive the thing).

Well, he races chevettes on dirt track.. 2.0 motors and 38/38s... he stated that if the air correctors are too big on the 38s, you'll get hesitation at toe in.  Nothing can tune it out other than smaller air correctors, he has tried..  I haven't gotten to try it yet myself, but its on the short list before vintage. 

Edited by eurotrash

2002 newbie, and dead serious about it.
(O=o00o=O)
Smart Audio Products for your 2002

 

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