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Question re. trunk seal installation

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I think that seam you're looking at on yours, slips over the metal lip.

edit#2: oops, yes, you need an adhesive for sure or else it will just fall off. It's a task to keep the corners from pulling in & off while the adhesive dries. I forget what I used. Took about 1 hour before I could leave it unattended.



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  • 6 years later...

I wanted to pass on a couple of other tips on seals to remove the fuel smell in the cabin.  Check your gas tank fittings and sender seal.  The sender seal rarely gets replaced so it hardens like plastic and can leak.  Doesn't take much to smell.  Lastly, good hood seals are important.

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Ajusting the hinges and latch are likely next to get a good seal all the way 'round.  The trunk's way easier to get right than a door, but just replacing the seal isn't always the complete answer. 


A trusting, diminutively dimensioned volunteer and some post-it notes will let you know for sure. 


Place the post it notes in multiple places across the seal on each side with the sticky edge perpindicular to the seal (just enough stickum to hold them in place until the next step) .  Close the lid gently with said volunteer and a flashlight inside, and have them pull each post-it inward.  Any that comes out too easily will indicate a spot with no contact.  Don't forget to let your volunteer out.

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I just resealed mine and used Wurth rubber cement. What started as a patch job in one corner, turned into redoing the entire seal.


I started by applying cement to the bottom side of the seal in the area that I was working on and then the corresponding area around the trunk, let each side dry for about 30 seconds, then pressed them together and worked my way around the trunk. Took about a half hour. Easy peasy.


...I'll let my kid out of the trunk tomorrow :P

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  • 2 months later...

question on the trunk seal - mine keeps coming up after glueing it with a new seal on new paint.  I have used both wurth rubber glue and 3m  - seemed fine for awhile but literally a 4 months in and the corners start coming up. Upon examination the glue does not seem to be adhering well to the bottom of the seal.  Wondering if others have roughed up the bottom side of the seal with some light sandpaper or something?

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As seen in other recent posts about this same subject---


Make sure to remove the mold release (or preservative for long term storage) from the seal. Some cleaners will not react well with adhesives.  


Try to remove as much old adhesive from the body as possible. This goes the same for previously failed attempts to glue the seal in place.


Wait a bit for the paint to cure before installing new seals. Some cleaners and adhesives will soften paint (some are designed to do this).


Make sure the tail panel hasn't been pushed in or the top lip pushed down.  Loading heavy objects into the trunk and temporarily setting items on the edges can bend the lip down.


My use of the Wurth Rubber cement has failed miserably on the 69. This product seems to have been reformulated since it doesn't work as well as mentioned in other archived blog posts.

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