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Parking brake cables?


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It's not difficult. Just remove and replace. Get the repair manual instructions for proper rear brake adjustment.

Make sure the eccentric shoe adjuster "nuts" rotate on the backing plate. They often rust up. Adjust the shoes with the adjusters first, then adjust the cables.

There are no welds in the factory installation. However, a PO may have made some "special improvements", or there's a lot of rustiness going on.

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I think your trying to say You cant get the cables out??? The male part of the cable slides into the tube. They get stuck.. A good corrosion spray and sitting overnight is important. You can get vise grips on the sleeve to remove. As Bob said should be in the aechives....

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R&Ring the cables wouldn't be a problem if they weren't hung in the tubes. I've pulled a set before so I know how they're supposed to come out. I ran PB Blaster down the tubes and they wouldn't yield to brute force. By brute force I mean I hooked a winch to the cable. All that did was stretch the cable. They are well and truly stuck. My question was if anyone had cut the entire emergency brake assembly, tubes and handle mount, out of the car and welded another in. Open to any other suggestion...

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Spray from the passengers compartment down the tubes. I have had that work. I did like three applications over two days and they popped right out. The other option if you dont want to reuse the cables is oxy-acet heat with a welding tip. And please be careful...Nothing else gets hot enough to break the corrison...

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Maybe give the Acetone mix a try???

Date: Sun Oct 10, 2010 8:20 pm

From: schivvers in TN

Subject: Re: You know it is time to call the professional mechanics..

Hey besides heat...you may want to try 50/50 acetone/ATF.

It has broke every bolt loose I've every attempted it on. It comes with great recomendations and actual scientific research/results...

PB Blaster=ok. A 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF=Best Ever! Here's the cold, hard facts from the April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop. They did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better.

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce

None ................. 516 pounds .

WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25

PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35

Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21

Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75

ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

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Don -

I was going to suggest the same thing, thou I've not yet tried it myself. I've relied on the next-best one on the list, AeroKroil, for many years, and, except for a frozen caliper bleed screw, have had good results.

Try the Acetone/ATF mix, let it sit overnight, and let us know if that maybe worked.

Bob Napier

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some years ago--and they were well and truly stuck. One I finally got out; I couldn't get the other one out even when I hooked the brake end of the cable to a comealong and the other end of the comealong to a sturdy fence post. I dragged the car backwards (with it in gear and foot on the brake) about a foot--then the cable broke.

We finally extracted it by cutting the tube at the floorpan, extracting the cable and re-welding the tube.

It appeared to us that the plastic sheath that's supposed to protect the cable had partially disintegrated and bunched up, jamming in the tube. If that's the case with yours, heat should either melt or soften the plastic sheath so the cable will come out.

Let us know how you finally extracted it.


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I cut the welds on the floorpan and they had to be wiggled a bit to break a braze where they enter the car. As I pulled them down all the PB in the tube ran out. It appears that the sleeve had bunched up just as Mike suggested. That and the male piece that I thought had rusted away was still in the tube. My, probably original, cables had a flush mounted piece. I didn't even notice it until I heated the tubes to melt the plastic and the adjuster banged into it.

As much "fun" as getting them out was I'm sure it's going to be even more fun to weld them back in while flat on my back.

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