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easier than a spring compressor


RedBaron
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Many tool supply companies sell stainless steel cable ties. To avoid the need to use a spring compressor, jack the car up, remove the road wheel, and then put a wood block under the hub and lower the car until the spring is fully compressed. Reach in and weave in 3 or 4 cable ties so that the loop made by the tie captures at least 4 turns of the spring coil. Use vice grips or needle nose pliers to snug them tight. Jack the car up and the spring will remain compressed. The rears will pop right out and the strut on the front can be removed in the normal way. When you put them back on the car, just use metal shear pliers (tin snips) to cut them. On the rears, the springs set on nearly impossible to find rubber donuts. I used the old cratered ones as a template and made new ones from the a piece of the arimid reinforced tread portion of a truck tire gladly donated by NTB. You can make two donuts and stack them on top of one another if you want raise the rear a little and reduce the undesired camber change you often get with stiffer, lower aftermarket springs. Not elegant but cheaper than adjustable camber bushings at the rear.

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Guest Anonymous

Compressed springs in general scare me which is why I prefer the cable ties. I am sure that they are not certifed, but then again I am pretty sure that the shoddy and poor fitting Chinese made spring compressors are not certified either. A tie could break, but a poorly engineered compressor can simply slip off.

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When I remove a compressed spring (with a compressor) I was taught to put a length (about 6ft) of chain through the center of the spring. That way, if the spring were to release, the energy is absorbed by the mass of the chain. I remember working in a shop years ago where a spring went through a wall when it popped.

John

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