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Heater valve worth trying to fix?


bahlvin
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Hi folks,

So I bought a '76 2002 a few months ago and am working on getting some of the essentials up and running before the wet weather really kicks in. The project du jour is refurbishing the heater core, which is going quite well overall thanks to the excellent FAQ.

One issue I'm running into is the fact that my heater valve is a bit worse for the wear. The black plastic post into which the lever arm screws is stripped out--not a big deal, since I can just epoxy in place the lever arm screw. But the valve was also hard to actuate, so I tore it apart to clean it up... and broke the little black plastic part inside, where it attaches to the white plastic 'shield' part.

I could try to JB weld the little plastic parts back together (the black one and white one in the picture), but I'm worried that it might leak/come undone internally after I put it all back together. Also there's the little spring bit which would no longer be having any effect.

So, my questions are: Is it possible/cheap to get replacement heater valve innards? Is it a good idea to try to epoxy this guy back together in all the right places?

Thanks so much!

Ben

Tacoma, WA

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Hi Ben I have a couple of valves that leak from the shaft but still usable.They would need to be dissassembled but could be fixed with an o-ring the parts are intact and they move open and close I am local in Tacoma area 253-486-4151 or jaycabb75@live.com best to call though they are worth fixing as they are very expensive new. Joe

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Guest Anonymous

Ben, I have a couple of refurbished heater valves in very good condition. They're not as expensive as the new ones but they're not cheap either. Let me know if you're interested.

Francis Ferrance

Ferrance@aol.com

1972 BMW 2002

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I also broke the post that goes from the black inside part to the white slider and fixed it. Keep in mind that its not a solid connection, just a post that pushes on the inside of a little socket on the white part. What I did was drill a small hole all the way thru the black part where the post should be. I then put a little nail into the hole (cut to the proper length), covered in epoxy (the 5-minute kind from Autozone). I made sure it lined up right for the length on the outside, and allowed it to stick out a little on the inside. When I put everything back together, I used silicone grease on everything to help it slide better.

Also, my parts looked the same, but were different colors. They were more of a yellowish for both, but made of plastic.

I did all of that 2 or 3 months ago, and I've been using the car a lot on the weekends for road trips, and the heater valve seems to have operated fine.

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