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Battery trunk relocation options

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59 minutes ago, xr4tic said:

 

My car won't see cold weather either, I'm more concerned with it sitting for 4-5 months unused.  I've killed a few normal batteries in my E39 M5, but I have a bad habit of not putting a maintainer on it until after it gets really cold.

Can't help you there. No matter which one you purchase, you gotta put it on a maintainer.

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On 9/16/2010 at 4:43 AM, pikeperkins said:

I don't know. The TEP brace serves two purposes (brace and battery relocate) but it's up to the individual I guess. This was in my old Malaga, but it made it's way into the Inka.....

Photobucket

I don’t know why but I just can’t bring myself to fit my TEP battery holder, it just feels wrong to drill the shock mounts.....

but then my rational mind says “hey stupid, there is a big hole right above where the shock already sits, so quit worrying!!!!”

I don’t know why my tiny mind has such a big issue with it, I have a late tii so it would make sense, but (and here goes my tiny mind) my battery tray actually bolts in, courtesy of the PO, so why do I need it??

well ........... it looks kinda cool😂😂😂😂😂

and Oil changes would be so easy, even with the removable tray.

This shouldn’t be so hard🙄😜

 

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I'd love to attach a strain gauge to the drilled holes of one of these installations before and after the part is installed to measure how much flex there really is in the shock tower and whether any measurable improvement is likely. The shocks themselves exert little force, which changes more with road surface than with how aggressive one is driving. I suspect the "shock tower brace" portion of these battery holders is more decorative than functional.

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1 hour ago, Jimmy said:

I'd love to attach a strain gauge to the drilled holes of one of these installations before and after the part is installed to measure how much flex there really is in the shock tower and whether any measurable improvement is likely. The shocks themselves exert little force, which changes more with road surface than with how aggressive one is driving. I suspect the "shock tower brace" portion of these battery holders is more decorative than functional.

 

There definitely has to be flex in that area even just in normal driving.  Not to say that brace is really stiffening it to the significance of feeling the difference on the street.  To me, more importantly than the rigidity of it is just getting the battery off the driver front corner and centered over the rear subframe. 

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1 hour ago, Get2theBimmah said:

 

There definitely has to be flex in that area even just in normal driving.  Not to say that brace is really stiffening it to the significance of feeling the difference on the street.  To me, more importantly than the rigidity of it is just getting the battery off the driver front corner and centered over the rear subframe. 

 

I'm not convinced there's meaningful flex in that area or that that brace has any meaningful effect. That's a very strong section of the body, maybe the strongest.

 

As for centering the battery over the rear subframe, is that really the best place for it, considering the offset of the weight of the driver? A full fuel tank weighs more than a spare tire-and-wheel assembly but much less than most drivers. Given a battery on average is 30-ish lbs, wouldn't it be better to put it on the right half of a LHD car like BMW did in later cars?

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1 hour ago, Jimmy said:

 

I'm not convinced there's meaningful flex in that area or that that brace has any meaningful effect. That's a very strong section of the body, maybe the strongest.

 

As for centering the battery over the rear subframe, is that really the best place for it, considering the offset of the weight of the driver? A full fuel tank weighs more than a spare tire-and-wheel assembly but much less than most drivers. Given a battery on average is 30-ish lbs, wouldn't it be better to put it on the right half of a LHD car like BMW did in later cars?

I'm with you Jimmy.. There seems to be agreement among the knowledgeable FAQ'ers that the front brace doesn't perform...I doubt the rear brace does as well. 

 

As for the battery...there are plenty of lightweight alternatives that make the trunk relocation obsolete.

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I have been thinking about putting in braces both front and rear.   All I know is when I pull into my garage which has a lopsided driveway going into it,  I can hear the windshield frame rubber squeak against the frame every time I go in. 

 

 

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4 minutes ago, Dudeland said:

I have been thinking about putting in braces both front and rear.   All I know is when I pull into my garage which has a lopsided driveway going into it,  I can hear the windshield frame rubber squeak against the frame every time I go in. 

 

 

 

This^^^  

 

 You can also roll your window down, grab the top of the door and the rain gutter on the car. You will feel the car twist as the door and body go two different directions. Its worse on sunroof cars(of all makes and models including new cars).

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There have been numerous discussions about the shock tower brace in the front not doing anything worthwhile. If you want to, go ahead. People think they look cool. Seems like a waste of money to me.

 

I doubt the braces will do anything to stop your car from squeaking when you pull into your garage. It's a 40 something year old sedan. You think the braces will stop the squeaking? I don't think so.

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My TEP piece came with the car when I bought it in 2009.  I recently redesigned it for more than the one use.. which is holding a battery, not bracing the car. 

50872988_10156973400469568_2065362047939379200_n.jpg

50946040_10156973391359568_5231413773054509056_n.jpg

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30 minutes ago, NYNick said:

There have been numerous discussions about the shock tower brace in the front not doing anything worthwhile. If you want to, go ahead. People think they look cool. Seems like a waste of money to me.

 

I doubt the braces will do anything to stop your car from squeaking when you pull into your garage. It's a 40 something year old sedan. You think the braces will stop the squeaking? I don't think so.

 

 For normal street use with stock sized tires that were as wide as my first Huffy bikes rear tire, no, I don't think any brace is needed. 

 

 Throw some tires on there that make the chassis work and I will bet you anything that they are better than nothing and they are in fact doing something.

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This^^^  
 
 You can also roll your window down, grab the top of the door and the rain gutter on the car. You will feel the car twist as the door and body go two different directions. Its worse on sunroof cars(of all makes and models including new cars).

I do have all the stiff suspension stuff on my car as well. I imagine with stock suspension it may have a different feel.

I agree it won’t help with the squeaking, but at least the top of my towers will stay the same distance apart, although it won’t change any forward or back motion .


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22 minutes ago, evil02 said:

 

 For normal street use with stock sized tires that were as wide as my first Huffy bikes rear tire, no, I don't think any brace is needed. 

 

 Throw some tires on there that make the chassis work and I will bet you anything that they are better than nothing and they are in fact doing something.

 

What tires "make the chassis work?"

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