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Need help with carburetor install


Roca
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So I recently picked up a solex to replace my beat up and broken weber 32/36 DGAV.

When I placed the solex over the bolts from the intake manifold I noticed that they were too short. Also I'm confused about how the linkage is supposed to connect to the new solex, is it possible that I need to modify it.

Not exactly sure what Solex I have, but I believe its a Didta because mine seems to match exactly what this guy is selling.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,346831/highlight,downdraft+double+barrel+solex/

TIA

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1. Manifold mounting studs too short: check the thickness of the bakelite or fiberboard spacer that sat between the carb and manifold. I've seen 'em 3/4" thick. They're normally about 1/4" thick--some folks don't use 'em at all, but they do provide a good insulator to keep fuel from boiling in the carb's float bowl when you shut the car off in very hot weather. I've switched back and forth between Weber and Solex and never had to change the mounting studs...

2. Linkage--same-same on both carbs. Look at the picture of the carb that you quoted in your posting--that forked appendage that protrudes from the primary barrel butterfly is the same one that's used on the Weber; just transfer it to the Solex.

BTW, hope your Solex works OK. Primary difficulties with the Solex:

* choke doesn't work properly--usually the fast idle cam fails to engage properly so that when cold it doesn't idle high enough and stalls

* vacuum operated secondary--diaphragm breaks and the second barrel doesn't open. diaphragms are hard to find and expensive when you do.

cheers

mike

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THanks for the replys guys.

I think the the spacer actually has things connected to it, I'll take a picture later today and upload this evening. If this is the case what should I do?

Again, I think this will all help if I have pictures so I'll try to take photos of my weber, the manifold, the solex and the linkage by the end of the day.

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THanks for the replys guys.

I think the the spacer actually has things connected to it, I'll take a picture later today and upload this evening. If this is the case what should I do?

Again, I think this will all help if I have pictures so I'll try to take photos of my weber, the manifold, the solex and the linkage by the end of the day

.

you have most certainly left the bottom plate of the Weber on the manifold.

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You guys were right, I did leave the bottom plate on. I started earlier today and could clearly see what was wrong. I was able to get the carburetor on today and drove about 10 miles with it on the highway.

I'm still wondering how to get the choke on. Is this an auto choke carb? Also I'm looking for a good source for the manifold->carburetor gasket. Finally as is visible (hopefully in the pictures), I had to borrow the fork from the Weber in order to connect to the accelerator rod(?) on the Solex. Unfortunately it seems like the fork from the Solex is part of the whole arm so I left that on as well. So I have both forks on there now. I tried to photograph that.

Does this seem correct?

Thanks

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It's the round thing that's fastened vertically to the side of the carb...if it has two small hose nipples protruding from it, it's a hot water choke, and should be connected with the proper diameter hose to two matching nipples on the intake manifold. Unless your old Weber had a water choke, those will either be plugged or removed and replaced with bolts of the proper thread. If the latter, you'll have to find nipples from someone on the board who's converted to a manual or electric choke Weber.

Then simply connect hoses between carb and manifold nipples and you're in business. Be advised--either connect quickly or drain a little coolant from your system or you'll get a squirt of antifreeze from the manifold when you uncork the hose nipples.

cheers

mike

PS--if there are no hose connections on the carb, it's an electric choke, but I don't believe they used electric chokes on factory Solexes...

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that carb is a solex 32/32, oem.

The choke needs the water outlets to be connected, and also the electrical connector next to the water housing must see +12v when the engine is running. This is a "dual" heating system, part electrical and part water.

Works great when everything is connected and in tip top shape. It looks like you are far away from this...

The way it is installed now (nothing connected to the choke system), the choke plate will remain closed all the time, unless you floor it down, meaning the car will run uber rich when hot and will be very undriveable or will run very bad.

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