tires and wheels My 1972 2002 budget project (LOTS OF PICS)

[hrstudioplus]

EDIT: Here are also some videos I took:

Me starting the car up and testing some stuff. Notice the blinker light on the instrument cluster doesn't work for the blinkers, it only flashes once when I turn the hazards on. Probably bad wiring.

http://vimeo.com/14813588

Me demonstrating the amount of play in my shifter. I have an invoice from 2002 AD saying they changed my shifter bushings, but I'm starting to not think so? Also the shifter box itself could be messed up/needs adjusting...

http://vimeo.com/14813471

Here is the link to my set on Flickr, way too many pics to embed one by one!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42433648@N04/sets/72157624787119757/

And here is the link to view the slideshow (be sure to read the captions for each photo):

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42433648@N04/sets/72157624787119757/show/

My story:

I bought the car in November 2009, not knowing very much about 02's at the time, from a guy named Al Rasooli in Alta Loma. He was about 50% honest and straightforward and definitely didn't tell me anything I didn't ask or look like I knew about the car. I paid 2500 cash, and everything seemed pretty legit for what I knew at the time.

The second I leave his house, I am pulling up to the gas station, and the car stalls immediately. From there i try to call him, but he had left for Orange County to pick up his son (he says), and couldn't talk while driving, so i was pretty helpless. My friend helped me try to get it working... Once the car stalled, the battery no longer would turn over, and it was full of juice... the car would stall out EVERY time i hit the brakes. it was pretty much a nightmare!

So the car has a SALVAGED title, and I wish I knew what this even meant before I purchased it. I took the car to 2002 AD in Pomona and got a lot fo things worked on, but they are rather pricey and out of my area. Ben is a nice guy but I could have used a little more communication on their end during this time, since I didn't know much and was still learning.

So... fast forward to September 2010, I have a VERY reliable daily driver, not the prettiest car, but with in need of a good restoration. Gets me everywhere I need to go in LA.

Work I've done so far:

-Radiator refurbished and painted

-New alternator & regulator

-New water pump

-New oil filter

-A few new hoses here and there

-Crankshaft main seal (wow what a task)

-Rear brake work

-Clutch slave cylinder

Parts waiting for installation:

-Front windshield with seal

-Rear windshield with seal (non heated)

-Full pedal box rebuild w/ inside and outside foam

-Suspension bushings

-Restuffed and recovered stock tan seats and door cards

-Nardi classic wood wheel

-Stock steel wheels and hubcaps

-Weber 32/36 electric choke w/ k&n filter and double barrel intake manifold

-Upgrade rear sway bar

Might end up doing the body work myself, then sending off on a trailer to get painted. Once I accumulate enough parts, there will be about a 4 month period where I do body work/paint, interior, and installation of all rebuild or new parts, but until then it's my daily driver. Don't plan on restoring it to beauty queen status, just to a nice daily driver with fresh paint and interior.

Would love to hear feedback/suggestions/general thoughts, good or bad. Have been on the forum for a little while and I finally got around to taking pics of my car to post. My end goal is to have it either Chamonix white with a custom wood roof rack and stock hubcaps, or Schwartz black with Minilite wheels and foglights (a bit more sporty). What do you think?

Thanks for looking!

Hassan

hrstudioplus@gmail.com

[Lilleyvanilli]

Welcome to the brotherhood! Daily Driver!!! Yeah! Keep workin'. Nice pics,

[tinkwithanr]

Looks pretty good. Be very thankful you don't have to worry about rust issues out in Cali. It may look rough around the edges but as long as it's solid underneath your good to go.

Oh and you should post up in the project blog section and keep updates on how things are going over there. You might also be able to get some ideas from what other people have done.

[hrstudioplus]

Welcome to the brotherhood! Daily Driver!!! Yeah! Keep workin'. Nice pics,

Thanks man! All pics taken on an iPhone 4 actually. Camera is AMAZING.

[hrstudioplus]

Looks pretty good. Be very thankful you don't have to worry about rust issues out in Cali. It may look rough around the edges but as long as it's solid underneath your good to go.

Oh and you should post up in the project blog section and keep updates on how things are going over there. You might also be able to get some ideas from what other people have done.

Thanks man. And I agree with the rust issues, I'm definitely thankful to have a crusty dry car than a rusty water damaged one.

I'll be sure to start a project blog once I get some real work going...

[allbim]

I would stay away from black. I know it looks good, but it gets hotter than hell and shows every imperfection. I wouldn’t worry about the salvage title. You will never get out of this car what you put in it. Just keep it because you like it.

[hrstudioplus]

I would stay away from black. I know it looks good, but it gets hotter than hell and shows every imperferction.

Thanks for the advice. I am leaning more towards white lately. Schwartz black looks super clean, but that combined with the black roof liner I plan on getting will make it much less of the Summer car I want it to be.

[ThatGuy]

What happened to that front fender lip??? Looks like someone tried to roll the fender with some channel locks.

[hrstudioplus]

What happened to that front fender lip??? Looks like someone tried to roll the fender with some channel locks.

Tell me about it. No clue what the deal is, but if it's not fixable it's definitely replaceable.

[Gordon]

Since you are on a budget and your heater box refurbishment is in the future, check out this page http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/73/32/

G-Man

[c.d.iesel]

Take 15 minutes to remove the SPACERS

on top of the front struts.

Leave the color RED - it will look better with your air cleaner

enjoy the journey

[Mike Self]

best place to go for help/advice on your '02.

Coupla thoughts--

As CD said, remove the spacers from the front strut bearings--it'll lower the car about 3/4" in the front and definintely help the handling.

If you retain the stock air cleaner (recommended, just modify with tinships to fit your Weber--check archives for details), get the rubber hose and the "winter-summer box" that connects the air cleaner with the "snorkel"--air intake just above and to the radiator's right. The whole point of the setup--to pull cold air in from outside vs the hot air that's in the engine compartment.

The uncooperative inside turn signal light is most likely an easy fix; if you can't find procedures in the archives, drop me an e-mail. I did a column on fixing some time ago and will send you a copy.

If it were my car, I'd stick with the original Malaga maroon. When it's nice and shiny, it's a GREAT color for an '02.

cheers--and be very very grateful that your car has no rust! You should see 'em in the Midwest!

mike

PS--the stalling every time you hit the brakes was proably a short in the brake light wiring or switch; hope you found it quickly.

[hrstudioplus]

Take 15 minutes to remove the SPACERS

on top of the front struts.

Leave the color RED - it will look better with your air cleaner

enjoy the journey

Thanks, I am installing new suspension bushings and my rear sway bar tonight so I will remove the spacers.

Also, I have a new K&N chrome air filter so I will probably end up selling that stock air filter soon.

[hrstudioplus]

best place to go for help/advice on your '02.

Coupla thoughts--

As CD said, remove the spacers from the front strut bearings--it'll lower the car about 3/4" in the front and definintely help the handling.

If you retain the stock air cleaner (recommended, just modify with tinships to fit your Weber--check archives for details), get the rubber hose and the "winter-summer box" that connects the air cleaner with the "snorkel"--air intake just above and to the radiator's right. The whole point of the setup--to pull cold air in from outside vs the hot air that's in the engine compartment.

The uncooperative inside turn signal light is most likely an easy fix; if you can't find procedures in the archives, drop me an e-mail. I did a column on fixing some time ago and will send you a copy.

If it were my car, I'd stick with the original Malaga maroon. When it's nice and shiny, it's a GREAT color for an '02.

cheers--and be very very grateful that your car has no rust! You should see 'em in the Midwest!

mike

PS--the stalling every time you hit the brakes was proably a short in the brake light wiring or switch; hope you found it quickly.

Thanks for the help Mike. I actually have the "snorkel" box in my slew of spare parts hanging out in the trunk, I just hadn't taken the time to attach it yet. I now understand why that's recommended over the tiny air filters, so that I don't get hot engine air in the car. Makes perfect sense.

I will check out the turn signal light soon, the car has bad wiring overall and I'm considering getting it completely redone. The backup lights have a crazy flicker to them also.

And I actually have no idea what these parts are right above the brake booster (they are not even connected?)

Also, I am considering Malaga, but white is so buttery!

Hassan

[Mike Self]

to anything are part of the emission control system. You can remove 'em and declutter the engine room a bit.

As for your flickering backup lights: probably a loose wire on the switch, which is screwed into the left side of the tranny case. I'll bet that if you remove the terminals, clean 'em up a bit and crimp them so they're a tight fit to the switch they'll work just fine. Confirm by turning on the ignition and touching the two wires together. If the backup lights now work properly, there's your problem. If they still flicker, the problem is either the fuse (see below) or the bulb sockets

And in a nice dry climate like California, 99% of your wiring problems are gonna be traceable to corrosion on terminals, corroded or just worn out fuses (replace 'em all; they're cheap!)/bulb sockets and or wires that are loose on their terminals. You probably don't need to replace the whole harness (a real PITA) so long as it doesn't show evidence of burning/melting and/or the PO didn't booger it up.

cheers

mike