32/36 acc. pump check valve stuck...

[PatAllen]

what would you suggest to unstuck a accelerator pump check valve ? its the only part on that carb that cannot be taken off, other than drilling the brass plug...

it is a 32/36 DGAV, the base of that carb is specific to the auto choke ones (water or electric) because of the tower to hold the choke mechanism...

i had it soaked in several mixtures...the litle ball bearing in there block the passage completely, so the acc. pump wont work...i would think it had rusted in ? is it made of steel ?

heat ?

[Guest Anonymous]

Ball bearing "check/valve" removal? Heat could be surgically applied with a soldering iron tip to the ball, but heat and surrounding pot metal could prove bad. Are you adept at silver soldering?

I once was successful using cold (Millers quik freeze) compressed air upside down (you know what I am talking about). Since you are well versed in electricity, why not use a gran electromagnet? The base metal is not ferrous, is it? Then there's always a combination, heat/cold in conjunction with rare earth magnets. Dental pick?

Incidentally, I have read your 4hp write up and it is wonderful. If you are not using the shield/drive shaft coupling balance device, why do you think it was installed in the first place? Is it really just a big ol balance, or does it serve some other purpose? I have one on my E24. (Once heard someone at dealership claim it deflected heat from catalytic converter. Not saying I accept that rationale any more than I believe it improves AM reception.)

Thanks for all your posts. Not only do you have an imagination, you act on it. You also need to be commended for doing your homework, before waiting for someone else to do it for you.

We, who are about to get our hands dirty, salute you!

[PatAllen]

Ball bearing "check/valve" removal? Heat could be surgically applied with a soldering iron tip to the ball, but heat and surrounding pot metal could prove bad. Are you adept at silver soldering?

I once was successful using cold (Millers quik freeze) compressed air upside down (you know what I am talking about). Since you are well versed in electricity, why not use a gran electromagnet? The base metal is not ferrous, is it? Then there's always a combination, heat/cold in conjunction with rare earth magnets. Dental pick?

Incidentally, I have read your 4hp write up and it is wonderful. If you are not using the shield/drive shaft coupling balance device, why do you think it was installed in the first place? Is it really just a big ol balance, or does it serve some other purpose? I have one on my E24. (Once heard someone at dealership claim it deflected heat from catalytic converter. Not saying I accept that rationale any more than I believe it improves AM reception.)

Thanks for all your posts. Not only do you have an imagination, you act on it. You also need to be commended for doing your homework, before waiting for someone else to do it for you.

We, who are about to get our hands dirty, salute you!

lol..that is quite a cool reply...

edit, for the balancer...it is called a torsional vibration damper per BMW terminology. I would say that since the trany is a OD unit, the DS is "overdriven" so it may be more prone to bad vibes then, remember it is also coupled normaly with a higher ratio diff...if it fit, i will put it, thats it.

for what it worth...i heated it up until i saw the WD40 starting to boil in the cavity, and it brought up with the fumes some white ash. It eventualy freeded up. I finished the job with compressed air from inside the fuel bowl.

Thanks.