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75 2002 Sleeper - M20B32, ITB, LSD


tinkwithanr

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Took a break from sandblasting today, but got some parts ready for the next small project with the help of one of my friends.

_DSC0043.JPG

Lets see who can figure out what these will become in the near future....

Hint: While the parts pictured won't end up on the car, what they make is directly involved with the project as a whole.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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engine dyno stand?

Nope, but I give you the reward for 'Best Answer that I wish I was actually Making'. That would be fricking sweet to have....

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Share on other sites

Good guesses. The correct answer is.... Tubing Bender!!

After not finding a good used one locally and not wanting to pay out the a$$ for something I will only be using to make one roll-cage for, I decided to make one following a set of plans I found online (Also known as the Go Trikes Bender). A few key elements that I really like about this bender in particular is the vertical bending angle lets you easily measure your bending angle as you go. Another plus is you don't need to support the far end of the tube on larger pieces, like you would with a horizontal bending position. It also runs off a pneumatically controlled hydraulic cylinder, so there's no need to bolt it to the floor or use a huge breaker bar like you would on most cheap, manual benders. All in all I have about $100 in parts (not counting the dies). Not to shabby considering it's only two days of my time, and it's something I enjoyed making.

This also gave me another chance to use the GoPro for a timelapse movie. I think the stationary camera position makes the video much easier to watch. FYI, there's no audio on this video. I got lazy and didn't feel like finding a good song lol. Oh, and you'll notice that the video stops before it's fully assembled. That's because the battery ran out lol. Looks like I may need to get the extended battery pack or remember to plug it in before shooting.

https://vimeo.com/46112411

And here are some pictures of it mostly assembled. I still need to paint it, but I'll get that done here in the next week or so.

Retracted Position:

_DSC0003.JPG

Fully Extended Position:

_DSC0005.JPG

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Share on other sites

Finally finished with the media blasting. This past week I finished hitting the rest of the underbody as well as some of the interior. I did skip over some parts of the interior, but they will just take a little bit of work with a angle grinder and stripping pad to get down to where they need to be.

The Results:

_DSC0001.JPG

_DSC0002.JPG

_DSC0003.JPG

_DSC0004.JPG

_DSC0005.JPG

Overall I'm pretty happy with the results, although I can definitely say that I will gladly pay someone to do that the next time. Next will be fixing up the rust spots and fabrication that needs to be done so that I can lay down the epoxy primer. That should keep the body from rusting away until I can get the interior, engine and suspension sorted out.

Thanks for looking!

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Share on other sites

More progress from the night. First up was to start work on the trunk repairs. The rear mount for the rotisserie was being supported by the old shock mounts, which are part of the trunk floor, so I had to set her back down on jack stands before I could get to it.

_DSC0042.JPG

One on the ground I removed the stock bumper retainers. There was a lot of crap and gunk holding them in so I had to persuade them with a few blows of my mallet.

_DSC0044.JPG

With the bumper retainers out of the way I could start cutting out the old, rusted trunk floor. First were the side braces, which are only found on the late model 2002's (square tail). I won't be adding them back in, but only because I plan to run two diagonal sections of tubing down from the shock towers to the rear corners.

_DSC0046.JPG

Next under the knife was the passenger side floor, which used to be the mount for the gas tank. Also missing from the picture is the center divider, which looked solid from the top but was completely rusted out on the bottom.

_DSC0049.JPG

Then the old spair tire well was cut out. I haven't decided if I'm going to replace it with another tire well or just not have a spare in the car. It really depends if I end up centering the fuel cell in the trunk, which would let me move it a bit further inboard, or leave it more off to the side like the stock location.

_DSC0050.JPG

With the rear trunk floor gone, I started trimming for the e30 rear subframe mock-up. I plan to frame out the trunk with 2"x2" 1/8" wall tubing, with the front most crossbar being in line with the ear mounts of the diff. Because of this I need to get the subframe position figured out before I can finish the trunk and mount the fuel cell.

_DSC0088.JPG

View from underneath:

_DSC0089.JPG

Lifting the rear subframe into position:

_DSC0090.JPG

Hub positioned in the wheel well:

_DSC0092.JPG

Wheel mounted:

_DSC0093.JPG

View of the subframe from the front, looking through the engine bay. And yes, the differential input shaft is off-center with respect to the center of the subframe. From this view the centerline is based on the opening in the subframe, which appears dead-nuts on.

_DSC0097.JPG

Yay extra track width!! It's to bad my wheels don't fit the fenders anymore.....

_DSC0098.JPG

The band aid in place:

_DSC0099.JPG

Muuuch better, that being said I will be getting wider wheels/tires. Shooting for at least 15x8 and 225's, but would prefer 245 if I can find the right sidewall.

_DSC0100.JPG

As far as permanently mounting the subframe, I have two options. One is to modify the e30 subframe to use the stock '02 mounting points. This has the benefit of utilizing the body reinforcements that are already there. I also wouldn't have to fabricate any forward mounts, only the differential ears. The other option is to keep the e30 subframe stock and move the mounting points on the body. This would be nice because it would allow me to bolt up any e30 subframe, if the original one were to get rusty or bent. The downside is I would need to engineer new mounting points and ensure that they are heavily reinforced.

After getting the e30 subframe up there, right now I'm leaning towards the second option. The e30 bushings are roughly 2 inches wider and 1 inch forward of the '02 counterparts. This puts the outer trailing arm mounts right up against the stock subframe mounts on the body. I'm also not convinced that my stock mounting locations are in very good condition. While making new mounting points will be a challenge, it will give me a chance to tie them into the cage structure as well as the unibody. This should give enough integrity to withstand any power levels I throw at it.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Share on other sites

More progress from the night. First up was to start work on the trunk repairs. The rear mount for the rotisserie was being supported by the old shock mounts, which are part of the trunk floor, so I had to set her back down on jack stands before I could get to it.

_DSC0042.JPG

One on the ground I removed the stock bumper retainers. There was a lot of crap and gunk holding them in so I had to persuade them with a few blows of my mallet.

_DSC0044.JPG

With the bumper retainers out of the way I could start cutting out the old, rusted trunk floor. First were the side braces, which are only found on the late model 2002's (square tail). I won't be adding them back in, but only because I plan to run two diagonal sections of tubing down from the shock towers to the rear corners.

_DSC0046.JPG

Next under the knife was the passenger side floor, which used to be the mount for the gas tank. Also missing from the picture is the center divider, which looked solid from the top but was completely rusted out on the bottom.

_DSC0049.JPG

Then the old spair tire well was cut out. I haven't decided if I'm going to replace it with another tire well or just not have a spare in the car. It really depends if I end up centering the fuel cell in the trunk, which would let me move it a bit further inboard, or leave it more off to the side like the stock location.

_DSC0050.JPG

With the rear trunk floor gone, I started trimming for the e30 rear subframe mock-up. I plan to frame out the trunk with 2"x2" 1/8" wall tubing, with the front most crossbar being in line with the ear mounts of the diff. Because of this I need to get the subframe position figured out before I can finish the trunk and mount the fuel cell.

_DSC0088.JPG

View from underneath:

_DSC0089.JPG

Lifting the rear subframe into position:

_DSC0090.JPG

Hub positioned in the wheel well:

_DSC0092.JPG

Wheel mounted:

_DSC0093.JPG

View of the subframe from the front, looking through the engine bay. And yes, the differential input shaft is off-center with respect to the center of the subframe. From this view the centerline is based on the opening in the subframe, which appears dead-nuts on.

_DSC0097.JPG

Yay extra track width!! It's to bad my wheels don't fit the fenders anymore.....

_DSC0098.JPG

The band aid in place:

_DSC0099.JPG

Muuuch better, that being said I will be getting wider wheels/tires. Shooting for at least 15x8 and 225's, but would prefer 245 if I can find the right sidewall.

_DSC0100.JPG

As far as permanently mounting the subframe, I have two options. One is to modify the e30 subframe to use the stock '02 mounting points. This has the benefit of utilizing the body reinforcements that are already there. I also wouldn't have to fabricate any forward mounts, only the differential ears. The other option is to keep the e30 subframe stock and move the mounting points on the body. This would be nice because it would allow me to bolt up any e30 subframe, if the original one were to get rusty or bent. The downside is I would need to engineer new mounting points and ensure that they are heavily reinforced.

After getting the e30 subframe up there, right now I'm leaning towards the second option. The e30 bushings are roughly 2 inches wider and 1 inch forward of the '02 counterparts. This puts the outer trailing arm mounts right up against the stock subframe mounts on the body. I'm also not convinced that my stock mounting locations are in very good condition. While making new mounting points will be a challenge, it will give me a chance to tie them into the cage structure as well as the unibody. This should give enough integrity to withstand any power levels I throw at it.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Share on other sites

More progress from this morning. Since I was starting to mock up the e30 rear subframe, I figured I should mount the diff I'm actually planning on using as well as the e36 dual eared diff cover. First up was to inspect my 3.25lsd. It's a rebuilt unit from BMW, denoted by the 'SE' tagged on the side of it. Getting the cover off, it's probably the cleanest diff I've ever gotten my hands on. All the gears are immaculate and not even any discoloration from old oil. I was thinking of replacing the seals before putting it on the road, but now I doubt I'll need to.

The ring gear, lsd pumpkin and speed sensor:

_DSC0101.JPG

Ring and Pinion:

_DSC0102.JPG

Next up was to install the e36 diff cover onto the 3.25 lsd. The main issue with this setup is the e30 reluctor ring is larger than the e36 counter part (or at least closer to the diff cover). This causes it to hit the cover and sensor. First you need to relieve the inside of the cover a bit to clear the ring.

_DSC0110.JPG

With the cover clearanced, next up was making a spacer to move the speed sensor 0.300" out. This would let it get the proper reading from the ring while not interfering with it. So I took some measurements and made a quick sketch:

_DSC0105.JPG

And of course I was out of 1.5" 6061 round stock, and I wasn't about to turn down my 4" 2024 round stock for a little sensor spacer. Luckily I did have some 1.5" square stock, so I cut off a section to turn down.

_DSC0104.JPG

Facing the saw cut edge:

_DSC0107.JPG

The diff cover side finished:

_DSC0108.JPG

Inner diameter bored and lining up the cutoff tool:

_DSC0109.JPG

This is how everything lines up. I may need to get a slightly larger o-ring for the spacer-diff cover seal, but overall it fits together pretty snug:

_DSC0112.JPG

Installed view from the outside. As it sits right now it just bolts down with the stock metal bracket, which bends now that it's spaced up off the cover. I'm going to order some 0.5" round stock 6061 to make two addition small spacers to help support that connection:

_DSC0113.JPG

Inside view with everything installed. You can see the extra clearance that the sensor has now:

_DSC0115.JPG

Diff cover and sensor bolted up to the 3.25lsd:

_DSC0117.JPG

3.25lsd bolted up to the subframe:

_DSC0118.JPG

And finally the subframe back under the car, ready for mount fabrication:

_DSC0119.JPG

Thanks for looking!

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Share on other sites

Progress report from the last few days. While waiting on some parts to come in for the rear subframe mounting, I decided to tackle the rear quarter panels. First was to mark off the area that my patch panels would cover:

_DSC0002.JPG

Then after cutting out the rot I tacked the new panel in place. They aren't perfect as far as overall shape, but since the only option BMW has in the entire rear side panels (for $1k a piece) I can make these work.

_DSC0003.JPG

Bunch-O-Tack Welds:

_DSC0004.JPG

Welds ground down, then a small upper section of rust cut out. It extended out past where my patch panel would fit, so I'll have to make up some small patches on my own.

_DSC0007.JPG

I also took the time to put some paint on the tubing bender. It's by no means a great paint job, but it keeps it from rusting and who doesn't like Hot Rod Red? I also ordered the 1" die set (3" radius) which should come in a week or so. That will let me fab up some smaller reinforcements, like in the front grill area and a strut brace I've been thinking up.

_DSC0011.JPG

Next up is just some of the parts that have come in this week. First was a set of Tii struts. For those that don't know, the Tii struts have larger wheel bearings compared to the standard '02 pieces, and so they are more durable and desirable. This is especially true when running larger wheels with higher offsets. These will be turned into coilovers either by myself or a suspension supplier depending the route I go.

_DSC0008.JPG

Lastly is my NEW fuel cell. Basically the more I thought about the one I originally bought, the more I realized the A1000 pump is really overkill for my setup. I also wasn't thrilled with having to run the 5/8" and 1/2" feed and return lines to the front, since I can't handle hard line that size I would have to either bring in a hydraulic shop to bend it for me or use braided hose. The new fuel cell has the '340 Stealth' pump, which is still rated for 5-600 FI horsepower. However, it only needs 3/8" feed and return lines, which I can bend and flare with my own tools. It is also a quiter, more street friendly pump that doesn't need a controller like is recommended with the A1000. The other change with this fuel cell is the 20 gallon capacity up from 15. Considering I want to drive this car, and taking into account the mileage I'm expecting from the turbo M20, the added capacity will be welcome.

_DSC0010.JPG

Toying around with possible mounting positions in the trunk. Front and Centered:

_DSC0012.JPG

Leaves decent room for the center exit exhaust to be run:

_DSC0013.JPG

While minimally hanging below the sheet metal:

_DSC0015.JPG

Thanks for looking.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're clearly the kind of guy who isn't afraid of taking challenges and makes things happen. I like your style!

I would use the original body mounts for subframe IF they are in decent shape. If they're rusty and need redoing anyway then why not go the other route. Center and forward is good place for fuel cell. You don't want to add inertial mass far behind axle. I have actually mounted fuel cell between the wheel wells in my racer. It's a bit higher but closer to center of gravity and safer.

Keep it up!

Tommy

Racing is Life - everything before and after is just waiting!

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You're clearly the kind of guy who isn't afraid of taking challenges and makes things happen. I like your style!

I would use the original body mounts for subframe IF they are in decent shape. If they're rusty and need redoing anyway then why not go the other route. Center and forward is good place for fuel cell. You don't want to add inertial mass far behind axle. I have actually mounted fuel cell between the wheel wells in my racer. It's a bit higher but closer to center of gravity and safer.

Keep it up!

Tommy

Thanks! For the mounts, that was my original plan. However, after getting the subframe up under the car, it became clear that the outer trailing arm mounting bolts would interfere with the stock mounting locations. So I would either have to drop the entire subframe to get to those bolts or have to mount the whole assembly much lower than I would like. Taking that into account, along with the fact that my stock mounting locations AREN'T in great shape has made me decide to fabricate new mounts on the body. I think I've come up with a very clever way to do it though, and the parts I was waiting on came in this morning so you can expect an update here shortly on that front.

Love this build.

I have the same tank (I think you are the one that told me about it). My car is getting media blasted this week. I hope to be catching up to you soon. :)

Haha, doesn't that mean Aeromotive owes me commission or something?

Glad to hear you project is coming along, be sure and post your progress when you get the body back.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Share on other sites

They do but it uses the weaker '02 trailing arms, and on top of that you would then need to source custom axles and cv joints to mate up the diff to the hub. I'd say your looking at ~$1500 for the bolt up solution, plus another $300 for the lsd itself. I got the entire rear subframe with lsd for $250. Plus the added track width will help to fill the turbo flares.

Besides, what's the fun in buying parts that just bolt up? Anybody can do that.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

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