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75 2002 Sleeper - M20B32, ITB, LSD


tinkwithanr

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I'm going on 17 months now, I think I'm beyond withdrawl lol. Not that it will be anything like it's old self when it's done.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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New update with good news and bad news. First the bad:

-Overall progress has been much slower than I had hoped. As I mentioned before, I was really hoping to have the entire body blasted during the long weekend. That hasn't quite happened.

-The sand blaster I was planning to use was left in less than great condition, and so I had to use most of my time Saturday refurbishing it.

-I'm not sure what kind of paint was used in the respray of my car, but damn it is tough to cut through. So even one the blaster was up and running progress is slow at best.

-Some area's of the body were hiding more bondo than I expected, and behind most of it was more rust.

And the Good:

-Some area's were less rusty/messed up that I though, which was a nice change for once.

-That's about it lol

Because of the above, I'm probably close to halfway done with the unibody. That then leaves the hood, trunk, fenders and doors. I'll make a more detailed post about the problems/progress once I finish (hopefully later this week), but here are a few teasers.

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FUUUUUUUUUUUUUU

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Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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While I don't have any pics of the blasting progress (I just finished replacing the last of the stock parts on the sand blaster besides the pot itself, grrr), I figured I could at least share some of the recent parts purchases.

First I broke down and picked up some Blare Spot-Weld cutters. A bit late considering i already removed the nose panel, but I'm sure I'll need it for other parts here shortly. These are particularly slick in that they have a spring loaded centering pin that retracts as you drill. To start, you 'punch' the metal in the center of the spot weld, and then drill until your through the first layer of metal. Much better than the 0.25" drill bit I was using before lol.

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Next up my e36 rear diff cover came in. I decided to use this because of the dual rear mounting ears compared to the single ear on the e30 diff. Also, this will let me swap in one of Rogue Engineering's fancy finned diff covers down the line (http://www.rogueengineering.com/rogue/DC/DC_E36.html).

Ignore my 1 minute bead blasting job, I just wanted to knock the grime off.

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Should bolt right up with some slight modifiations.

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Last but definitely not least was the start of my fuel system. For the past month I have been trying to decide what route to take with my fuel supply. I could keep the stock tank with an e30 318 fuel pump, but that would probably be well undersized for my final power goals. Which means I would have to replace it in the near future, not something I wanted to do. Then there is also the issue of how 'safe' the stock fuel tank is, along with the lack of internal baffling and a single pick up. This would lead me to need to use a surge tank setup, which only adds complexity to the fuel delivery system. This lead me to look into fuel cells, but most of the ones I came across were unsatisfactory. Pretty much all of them used foam for their internal baffling (if they had any at all), which degrades over time. It also doesn't stand up to e85 fuel very well at all, and since I'm planning to use that under boost, none of those tanks would work.

Then I came across the Aeromotive line of Stealth Fuel Cells. Initially I thought they were very overpriced, until I realized that they came with an internal prefilter, pump, and fuel sender all in one package. But by far the best aspect for me was that they use an internal baffling system to keep fuel around the pickup of the pump at all times. This was key for me, because I plan to drive the car very hard, so starvation is a big concern. The specs of my tank in particular are:

15 Gallons (20x18x10) - fits in the stock location for the most part (slight modification required

Internal A1000 Pump - rated for up to 1000hp in forced induction applications (or closer to 600hp in e85, which gives me enough room to work with)

GM 90 Ohm fuel sender - While not the 3-73 ohm range of the stock sender, it's close enough that I can make it work with some simple circuitry.

Shiny:

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-10AN Outlet from the pump, that's a lotta fuel lol

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Here you can see some of the baffling. The vertical tube on the left is the return line, it dumps back into the center of the tank which is also where the pickup for the pump is, separated by a small wall. If the fuel level gets low in the tank, the return will dump straight back into the baffle, keeping the remaining fuel by the pickup. The baffling also helps keep the pickup submerged during high side-loads (think long, high speed sweeping corners). You can see the pick up and the prefilter on the right side of the picture.

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Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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If your planning to take your project as far as I have mine it's definitely worth it. I do wish I had made some provisions for raising and lowering the rotation points on each end (most higher end units use a pair of hydraulic cylinders), but I can't really complain to much.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Sorry for the lack of updates, I was waiting to have something worthwhile to post before, but It's moving along slowly. Between my work schedule, taking 10 days for vacation, the heat wave and my crappy sand blaster progress has been less that I wanted.

That being said I do have all of the exterior body panels and engine bay blasted to bare metal. Right now I'm working on the underbody which is a huge PIA. Once I finish that I just need to do the interior and trunk which should both go fairly quickly.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So it's been a while since I had an update worth posting, between the crazy hot weather and my work schedule it's been hard to make any noticeable progress. Luckily today I managed to knock out enough that it was worth it to catch you guys up.

First thing first, the rest of the Turbo body parts came in from Blunttech (thanks again Steve). All together the kit consists of:

4 fender flares:

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Rear Trunklid Spoiler:

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Front Spoiler/Lip:

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Gasket for between the Body and Flares, along with mounting nuts:

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Sadly the Front Driver Side Flare is currently unavailable from anywhere. Supposedly BMW has then in production, but there is no telling when they will be available again. As of right now it's not holding me up, since mounting and trimming the front fenders won't take to long (the time consuming part is going to be the rear flares). Worst case scenario is I'll end up having to get a reproduction and use it until the OEM piece comes back in stock.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Share on other sites

The rest of my time has been spend stripping the car down to bare metal. After finishing all of the exterior surfaces, I started working on the underbody. The sand blasting process worked great for the surfaces with just paint and bondo (in some cases LOTS of bondo lol), but it was pretty much useless on anything with rubberized undercoating. Which is the entire underside of the car. Because of this, I had to bust out the 4" grinder with the wire wheel attached and strip off all the rubbery material. This leaves the base metal primer, which I'll sandblast off as a final step.

Here's a pic of the underbody after stripping off the rubbery undercoat. It's kinda hard to see, but the grey/greenish area's are the base metal primer ready to be sandblasted. The lighter grey area is already sandblasted metal, and the black is an aftermarket undercoating from my previous repairs. It will also be coming off to bare metal, but it needs to be ground off still.

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What does half a car worth of undercoating look like?? This, the pile is about half and inch thick.

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After spending a few hours working on the bottom of the car, I turned my attention to the rear fender wells. The first picture is after I wire wheeled out all of the undercoating. This showed me what places were rusty and needed attention.

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For my rear suspension, I'm going to be running a true coilover that ties into the roll cage in the trunk area. This means that the stock spring perch and reinforcement are just taking up space, so out they come.

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With the inner section cut out, it just left the spot welded attachments which gave me a great chance to use my new spot weld cutters. Here you can see the individual spot welds on each piece.

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First I punched the center of each spot weld so the cutter could locate properly.

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And here you can see the cutter. The center rod is spring loaded, so it helps to locate the cutter without drilling into the second layer of metal.

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As you push the bit in, the rod retracts keeping the bit centered.

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Now all that was left was to drill out all the spot welds for the spring perch support.

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Bottom Side Done:

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Top side Done:

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After removing it, I'm really glad I did. You can see all the rust that was hiding underneath it. Luckily with the perch out of they way it will be very simple to patch it and tie it into the cage with my shock mount.

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The next steps are to remove the spring perch from the other side (passenger) and then sandblast the underbody for hopefully the last time. Then I just need to blast the interior, which shouldn't take much time at all thanks to the thin layer of paint, and the trunk.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Share on other sites

More progress on the underbody today. First up was removing the spring perch on the passenger side.

Hmm, I wonder what's under there:

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Surprise!! More Rust!

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Wheel Well after drilling out the spot welds and grinding off all of the undercoating. Now it's ready for sand blasting:

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The worst of the rust was actually on the passenger compartment side this time. Either way, it'll get cutout and replaced.

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And to think one of the reasons I bought this car was because it had solid shock towers. :rofl:

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How it looks from the passenger compartment. Think of it as ventilation for the rear seat passengers.

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Here's the underbody after getting blasted. Pleasantly surprised with how solid the metal is here, both the original metal and my patches from two years ago are holding up well.

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I think there may have been a hoard of angry chickens in my car at one point in time.

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And finally here's the same wheel well after being blasted. Fairly clean, just needs the one patch and some modification for my true-coilover setup.

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Last but not least, I picked up a GoPro Hero2 this past week. I got it mostly for recording drives and other outdoor activities (snowboarding, hiking etc), but until then I'm also going to use it to help document the build in a different way than just the pictures. That being said I don't really want to take it in the booth while I'm sandblasting, so that will have to wait until I'm done with this stage. Hopefully here soon.

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Thanks for Looking!

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Share on other sites

I definitely didn't have your mic setup in mind when I ordered it or anything.... Lol. Once I actually get out on one of these drives it's gonna be great!

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Share on other sites

Let me start by saying that this was just something that I threw together very quick this afternoon. I was anxious to test out the Hero2, and so I took this video of some undercoating removal. Not the most glamorous topic I know, this was mainly just an exercise for me to be able to practice with. That way when the good stuff comes along I'll know what to do and how to do it.

Without further adieu:

https://vimeo.com/45860561

Sorry about the link, I can't seem to figure out how to embed a Vimeo movie directly into my post on this forum.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Share on other sites

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