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75 2002 Sleeper - M20B32, ITB, LSD


tinkwithanr

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Hey Tink,

Totally understand, been down that road a couple of times, been on hold with my project due to (lack) of work, and have looked at your with inspiration.

Considering that you are building that handles 400+hp, I have been inspired to do something on my next project when I get this one done. So I may need you guidance (hint an engine from a model year into a production model), something that would incorporate all you have done and then some. Maybe on the same wave length here, but we are all looking forward you picking up torch and firing up the machines. Awesome work!!

Hope that the dust is settling and life get better for ya!

Cheers!!

Justin

The question is not that we broke a few rules or took certain liberties with our female guests.

We did ;)

Charlie don't surf!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the support guys.

Sadly my ebay addiction continues. This is only part of the newer direction:

dry+sump+pump.jpg

More to come.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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And then he said,

"Let there be brakes!"

And it was good.

IMAGE_11700BFC-841C-4B8C-BE9F-6834A1B6D146.JPG

Front:

6-Piston Forged Calipers

300mm (11.75") x 32mm (1.25") vented 2-piece rotors

Rear:

4-Piston Forged Calipers

300mm (11.75") x 32mm (1.25") vented 2-piece rotors

Retains Stock Hand Brake

The front and rear will share the same rotor disc, so maintenance/replacement will be easy. The brake bias is kept at the proper ratio due to the difference in the piston area for the 6-pot front and 4-pot rear calipers. It can then be fine tuned with the balance bar pedal setup and by changing out the master cylinders if need be.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Custom Center Hats, the rear will either be made of steel entirely or have a steel ring that bolts in for the shoes to engage.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Haven't had much time to work on the car lately, I've had to work 60-70 hours the past couple of weeks. My new oil pump did come in though, so I took some time to start planning out my oil system a bit.

The new pump in all it's glory. Used, but in great condition. I'll probably end up sending it in for a rebuild at some point before the car is done, but for now I'll just keep it as is for help with mocking everything up.

_DSC0037.JPG

First up was to cut out the stock sump. For the final setup I will probably end up with either a full billet pan or welding up a custom one from a CAD design (as opposed to just modifying the stock cast pan) but for now I will use the stock one minus sump for mocking up. This pan already had a stripped drain plug, so no real harm.

_DSC0035.JPG

For mounting the pump I really see two options, driver or passenger side. Initially I was leaning towards the driver side to help keep it away from the heat of the headers and to simplify the scavenging lines coming from the pan.

This is roughly where it would go:

_DSC0035.JPG

And the output ports from the top. The first three would run to the oil tank and the last is the pressure out to the block.

_DSC0043.JPG

I also mocked it up on the passenger side. This would be nice because it would allow a shorter pressure side run into the block, as well as keep the oil tank on the driver side away from the headers. The main downside to this position would be messier scavenging lines from the pan due to the tilt of the engine.

_DSC0045.JPG

The next step will be figuring out what kind of capacity I will need for the oil tank, and seeing where I can shoehorn that into the engine bay.

Also, someone mentioned the fact of using the non-OEM stainless bolts to mount the spacer on the bottom of the strut housings, so I figured I would post up my calculations:

Thanks for your concern. You are correct, the stock BMW bolts are ISO grade 12.9 (which for the record is the equivalent of SAE grade 8 so that's a bit misleading). I have gone through the calculations comparing the two different grades and it will be fine, keeping in mind the stock '02 strut housing uses M8 bolts and the e12 strut uses M10 (probably because of the much larger curb weight). Taking those into account:

M8 Minor Diameter (the 'area' that a stress will be applied) = 6.596mm

M8 Stress Area = 34.15mm^2

M10 Minor Diameter = 8.315mm

M10 Stress Area = 54.274mm^2

So the M10 fastener has 59% more cross sectional area for a stress to act over. This means that even though the grade 12.9 bolts has 54% more tensile strength than the stainless bolt, because the stainless fastener is larger in diameter it is still stronger overall than the stock fastener. I do admit that the above maths are only valid for tension or shear failure, I didn't bother to test for thread failure. This is because the threads would pull out of the steel housing or the aluminum spacer (for the bolts holding the pitman arm to the spacer) before the threads on either fastener failed.

All that being said, thanks for bringing it up. It never hurts to check and double check things, especially when it comes to critical components.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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I made a dry sump pan for my m10 by modifying the original e30 pan. Welding the material was really a pain. It would have been smarter to do all custom from new material - so keep to your plan.

Tommy

Racing is Life - everything before and after is just waiting!

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Good to know. I've already laid out the bolt pattern for the flange in CAD, so the hard part is done.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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  • 2 weeks later...

tink! so great to see pics and hear you. i know a bit about personal setbacks......trust me. but.....stay positive and above all....keep that brain working on overdrive! it is truly good therapy! especially with a good 2002 to work on! hope you remain well! and.....one more thing......

.....aint it great to have a CAD and a lathe???? the best, right?

looking forward to sump plans..... and bracket for pump!!!!! thank you, sooooo much! love your project...... and....... have since beginning! keep breaking that new ground!

be well!

hendi in miami

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Here's the rest of what I picked up over the weekend.

New assortment of sockets. I've been using my old craftsman "121" piece set for the past 4 years, and finally decided it was time to upgrade. The main difference is a greater range of socket sizes for each drive size, as well as a whole lot more deep well sockets. The old set only had 1/4 and 3/8 drive DW, and only 10 total. This set has pretty much everything from 4-22mm in DW, 12 and 6 point. It also came with standard and metric ratcheting wrenches. Half off as well!

_DSC0002.JPG

Next up I got the inserts for the front suspension. Koni 8611-1259 double adjustable's. I'm still working on getting the compression adjustment mods figured out on the strut itself, but it should do the job nicely. It also leaves plenty of room in the strut housing to shorten it.

_DSC0003.JPG

Then I sorted out the rear suspension. I decided to go with QA1 Double Adjustable shocks with Eibach Springs. These have urethane bushings in each end, but if that ends up deflecting to much I can change them out for spherical bits easily.

_DSC0004.JPG

They are also very easy to adjust, just reach under the car and turn the knobs.

_DSC0005.JPG

Then I got all my AN fittings and hose for the fuel system and oil system, as well as the necessary wrenches to put them together. I still need to get the hard lines for the long runs under the car, but I should be able to get the engine bay lines run.

_DSC0006.JPG

More fuel system goodies including a billet fuel rail, fuel filter and adjustable regulator:

_DSC0007.JPG

_DSC0008.JPG

Last but not least the new set of wheels came in. I already split them before I remembered to grab a couple of pictures, but they are Epsilon Meshes. Once I rebuild them to the right specs they should be 16x8 front and 16x9 rear with gold centers and polished lips. Kinda like a poor mans BBS E50.

Centers:

_DSC0010.JPG

Lips:

_DSC0001.JPG

For those that haven't seen them in good condition this is what they will look like when done:

epsilon2.jpg

Happy Holidays!

Hello

I am rebuilding bmw 2002 in Thailand for road register (everyday drive) and really like your coilover set up. Would you mind to share me model number and spring rate of your front and rear coilover?

Front

can i use koni 8611 1257 with ground control coilover kit?

What different between koni 1259 and 1257?

Spring rate? what brand ?

Rear

what is model number of QA1 double adjustable? pro star?

Eibach spring rate and model number?

many thanks in advance.

Surawat

oxygene2@gmail.com

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