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M2 madness


M3M3

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Some progress today…sort of…aided by JimG

Started by checking the valve lash on the S14. Thought they would be ok since head was refreshed not a lot of miles ago. Thought wrong! Lash was all over the place. Most were mid-to-wide, with a few over spec. argh. Of course the S14 uses shims instead of the ez adjustment of the M10. Gotta get a spring depressor tool and some shims….

Then Dr Destructo got to work taking more stuff apart. After my failed attempt to use my spare fuel tank, Jim pulled the existing tank out and got it all cleaned up. Thankfully, no holes in this one. It was put in the car new in 1994 when the last resto occurred.

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Car side of the tank looked good too. Just some paint scraped down to primer.

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Sanded off the bubbled paint area on the tank and spread a little rust reformer on the little bit of surface rust. Hope to paint and add undercoat to bottom tomorrow. Top still looks new.

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While the doctor was at work…I crafted an engine mount strengthener out of some 1/8in steel.

On right is the carboard pattern I made first.

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Here is is test fit. Hope to weld in tomorrow.

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Clearance looks good.

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One of these days I will actually start putting things back together.

2xM3

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Some progress today…sort of…aided by JimG

Then Dr Destructo got to work taking more stuff apart.

You forgot that we removed the front grills and the electric fan :-).

I had to scrub my hands multiple times to get that strip caulk off my fingers. We have to find some good self-adhesive tape.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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Plans to repaint the tank and weld the subframe were foiled today by rain.

Instead I finished the front spring install (8in/250lbs out, 7in/350lbs in). so easy with height adjusters!

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Then went about accurately checking the valve clearances. Most were pretty wide. Desired range in .25-.36mm

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While I was at TDC for #1, here were all the alignment marks.

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Next up was figuring out a place for the oil cooler. This is where it was in the purple car. Not the most airflow.

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Tried it here instead. A little further to the center.

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Then tried it here..in the center. Basically the same place as the stock a/c condenser would be.

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Probably go with the last one.

2xM3

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  • 2 weeks later...

Todays effort, again assisted by JimG

First project was the DS engine mount. Welded the plate on

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Then primed. Final paint tomorrow.

Next up was the gas tank. Primed and coated with 3m undercoating.

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Touched up the mounting area in the trunk while we were in there.

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Then we continuity checked the entire s14 wiring harness.

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The e30 325 c101 connector I have does not have a pin for the oil temp from the s14 harness. Will need to get a pin for it.

Next project was the DS heater hose. This is driving me nuts. I have tried both stock an tii hoses and neither fits. Got a new 170 hose from blunt yesterday and…it wont work. Both the heater input and the pipe on the engine are the same size, but the hose is bigger on one end than the other. The ends of the hose are also not long enough to reach from the bulkhead hole to the heater box tube. Argh. I tested the hose on two cars and it fits neither one of them, so it is not just this car. Very frustrating.

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this is as far in as it goes..

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2xM3

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Progress is looking good. I just wanted to let you know that if your ever in the area to bring that part by that you need welded up. I have been practicing my aluminum welding with a few other projects so were good to go. If I'm ever in the VA area I will make sure to let you know.

Keep up the good work,

Chris

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thanks chris. i have a long way to go in welding skillz before getting to alum! I have the coolant pipe ready to weld, but waiting for the lower oil pan from Massive to arrive so i can cut the upper oil pan to match. once i get both pieces ready to go, will let you know. will be on a break from 02 work for six weeks while I attend some joint training. It will probably be mid march before alum parts ready to go.

2xM3

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Today’s work..

Started with painting the engine mount reinforcement.

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Followed with the solution to the Drivers side heater hose problem..no need for fancy multi-bend bmw hoses. Generic 5/8th/16mm hose works perfectly.

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Got some 1/2in wide high density weatherstripping from homer depot. Laid down a bead of it in trunk and placed gas tank in.

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Next got the new gas pedal bushings out of the most recent Blunt parts box and installed rest of throttle linkage.

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Next up was the c101 connector pin issue. Getting the pins out is a pita and usually requires a “special tool” from bmw. Instead I used the e30 trick of cutting the outside off an rg59 connector and using the core to push the locking tabs back so the pin and wire could be removed.

Here is the connector, some removed pins, a complete rg59 plug and the core used to release the locking tabs.

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Here is the core inserted into the c101.

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I pulled the extra 5 wires/pins out, put one back in spot 19 for the oil temp and tested it on the harness.

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Maybe I will get front subframe back in tomorrow.

2xM3

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You're going to have to let me in on how you popped out that pin using the same piece from yesterday (that didn't work).

Wish I could help with the subframe tomorrow but have to work and drive to PA.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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Installed some urethane bushings in the alternator. What a pita. Glad I have a press to get them in.

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Then rolled the front subframe under the car and raised to position.

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While it was loosely in position, drilled the holes in the frame rail for the aardvark engine vibration damper mounting plate.

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While the drill was out, punched a hole in the trunk floor next to the gas tank for the fuel return line to pass through. I have a thick rubber grommet to put in the hole around the fuel hose.

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And new adjustable fuel pressure regulator arrived from bmpd. But…they did not include the right adaptor for the fuel rail. One they sent on right, one I had in stock from another e30 on left.

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When the paint dries tomorrow, will bolt up the subframe. Also need to measure valve shims this week.

2xM3

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Got a couple hours of work in with Jim’s assistance. Actually starting to put things back together.

Front subframe back on and steering connected.

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IE front sway bar installed. Hope it clears the S14 oil pan!

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Gas tank bolted in, pre-pump installed and wiring for level sender.

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Adaptor for the AFPR installed on fuel rail.

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Rear IE sway bar install halted by the eternal “bushing too big for the bracket” problem. Argh. I’ll start a separate thread on that.

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Front bushing too big also, but fixed that with some washers to space the bracket out a little.

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Comparison between ST and IE bars.

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Started to check valve shims, but the shims in the car did not have any size markings on them. Off to find a mircrometer…

2xM3

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on a biz trip now, so not getting any work done on the s14, but....remember that race e36 race car i had that floated a valve? well, new owner got the head off and sent me some pic's of the damage we figured was there.

warning..this is not pretty..

the head....notice a couple of things missing and the high swirl dimpled chamber..

Head.jpg

the piston...key here is the flow through oiling vents..

Piston.jpg

the block...additional oil vent created..

Block.jpg

and the missing valves from the head.....were loose in the bottom of the crankcase.

2xM3

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i put this in an FAQ also, but here is this mornings effort.

Going through a valve adjustment on my S14, so I thought I would I take some pics of process.

I will skip the obvious that you have to pull the plug wires, valve cover and spark plugs off..

First you need tools.

Feeler gauges, micrometer, bmw valve bucket depressor tool, magnet-on-a-stick, small pick, air pressure source and bicycle pump nozzle, light, paper/pen and magnifying glass.

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For each set of valves..

Rotate engine so that the lobes are pointing away from the valve shims

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Measure the gap on both valves using feeler gauge.

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Write it down. Helps to make a simple chart or spread sheet. Here is my chart.

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Rotate the shim buckets so the notches are like this (use pick or small screw driver)

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Insert bmw valve tool between valves. Make sure to use correct end of tool. Fat=intake, thin=exhaust.

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Depress tool until it hits the valve cover. It will stay there by itself. Buckets are now depressed. Notice how the bucket notches rotated.

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Use HP air to “blow” the shim out of the bucket. Not shown in pic’s, but place towel over the cam to catch the oil spray! The oil in there makes them stick, the air gets under the shim through the notch and breaks the seal.

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Blow both out while you are in there, but only remove them one at a time so they don’t get mixed up!

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Remove with the magnet tool.

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The size is printed on the back of BMW shims, but measure to make sure. Write down the sizes on your chart.

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Replace the shims. Make sure they are fully in the buckets.

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Slowly release the bucket depressor tool. Do not remove this tool with no shims in the buckets.

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Move on to next set.

If they gap is out of spec (.25-.35mm), you will need to change the size of the shim. Too big a gap means you need a thicker shim to take up the slack. Simple math will let you figure out the size.

If you have a shim selection available, put the right size shim in while you have them out. If not, calculate all the sizes you need and buy them at bmw or Volvo dealer….or BLUNT of course!!!

2xM3

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