engine and drivetrain Weber 32/36 emissions: vacuum & wiring

[polaris2002]

I have a 76 '02 (49-state) with a Weber 32/36. A previous owner removed the air pump and the lines relating to that, but the blue emissions loom and many vacuum hoses remain, resulting in a mess of vacuum lines and wires that I believe are causing an engine miss.

I don't have smog tests here and so I'd like to remove all the emissions crap.

I know that the blue loom can be completely removed and replaced with a wire from the #12 fuse to the + coil, but I am having trouble finding directions on how to simplify my vacuum lines (what to plug, what to keep).

Any help is appreciated!

[roadhog0]

I'll run outside and look at my car sometime and take some pics for ya if someone doesnt beat me to it.

[polaris2002]

That'd be awesome.

Right now, my major problem is that I can't get the car to start with all the blue harness stuff unplugged.

I read that I can remove the blue harness altogether and "replace it with a single wire from positive on coil to #12 fuse." Sounds simple enough- and maybe I'm just an idiot- but where do I connect the wire on the bottom of the fuse box to make it work? I've tried everything and it will not start without the blue harness plugged in.

I guess a photo of where to connect this wire from #12 fuse would be most helpful.

Reason for this work is because a mouse built a nest underneath my fusebox and chewed the wires from the #12 fuse to the coil, causing a miss...

ANY help appreciated!

[Napes]

If you pull the fuse block up a little you should see the male spade connecters on the underside of each fuse. Your wire from the fuse block to the coil should require no more than a female connector on each end.

Bob Napier

[polaris2002]

If you pull the fuse block up a little you should see the male spade connecters on the underside of each fuse. Your wire from the fuse block to the coil should require no more than a female connector on each end.

Bob Napier

My thoughts exactly, BUT I tried this and the car just won't start. I have to plug the blue harness back in to make it start.

I know the connections are tight- I must just be missing something basic here.

This is the blue harness I'm trying to replace with one single wire.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/emissions1-640.jpg

[mossyboy6]

Make sure to remember your idle cutoff solenoid wire. Should be hot when cars at fhart

[roadhog0]

So heres what Ive got on my car that works great. Hope this helps ya!

1. Dash pots disconnected (I need to remove them from the car I know but they arent connected...)

2. 32/36 vacuum ports (Top goes to Dizzy, bottom goes back to manifold, its just a loop.)

3. Bottom vacuum line on 32/36 I have looped to here on the manifold

4. Front vacuum port I have blocked off.

[biltwok2]

polaris2002: If you are still having trouble, email me.

[polaris2002]

Thanks everyone. I think I got it solved, I routed the wiring and vac hoses as those photos were, and did the timing with a timing light.... The miss is gone, UNLESS I hook up the vacuum advance.

Is there a way to test my vacuum advance unit and if it's bad, can I just buy a new one and replace it? I know my Range Rover had a bad advance unit that my mechanic simply replaced a while back.

Also, I took the car for a (very) hard run and noticed the temperature creeping up there pretty high. I'm going to flush the system tomorrow, as I suspect the coolant is 8-10 years old, and I forgot to burp the system last time I had it open for heater core service...

[polaris2002]

Also- my car is 2744429, one of the last built, so I MAY have a vacuum advance and retard distributor based on other forum info. I don't know how to discern this myself though (I'm still relatively new to 2002s and having a lot of fun... this car will soon be my summer commuter car)

Thanks again everyone!

[polaris2002]

Okay.... problems solved, I think...

My overheating problem was caused by the fact that my car had the original, corroded radiator in it. I had a spare 320i radiator in decent shape in my garage, so I threw that in today... I can drive the car like I stole it in 95 degree weather now and the temp gauge doesn't go above 1/3... nice!

The slight miss problem, I believe, is caused by the fact that when I replaced the cap, rotor, points, and condenser 700 miles ago, I never adjusted the point gap! I'm used to working on more modern cars- tomorrow, my uncle is going to show me how to adjust the points..... duh!