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Tuning frustrations (Stroker with Haltech)


MrNvgtr

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This is more of a vent, but if anyone has any constructive suggestions, by all means state them. I'm probably going to regret writing this later. I don't like to vent and I've already received lots of help from friends here, for which I'm extremely greatful. I'm unfortunately not very mechanically enclined. I can only handle routine maintenance type stuff at this stage in my cardom.

I'm so frustrated with my motor. It's an M10 stroked to approx 2.3L, Schrick 306 cam, S14 crank, 89mm bore w/JE pistons, e12 head, TWM ITBs, yadayadayada, and Haltech EFI.

So it's been running for about a year now, but with a frustrating stalling problem. It stalled pretty much whenever it wanted to. We think we finally got it nailed down to being caused by the smaller diameter alternator pully causing an undercharged system. Swapped that out with the original pully today. I'm not aware of anything else being done with the EFI, but was told the settings looked fine, so I'm assuming nothing was adjusted. Now it has a completely different rumble, kind of like a Subaru on roids, but it pulls like it lost 40 hp, like around 100 hp at most.

I'm so frustrated because I keep throwing money at it after a major rebuild and multiple attempts at fixing it and it's still got problems. I have no skills so it's sitting here in my garage and I can't do anything about it until next month when I have another $400 to blow on the next attempt.

Michael Rose

'91 Porsche 964
'00 Dodge Durango
'13 Honda Pilot

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You sure it isnt some sort of intermittent ECU issue or signaling issue? How does it read timing? It sounds very electrical to me, and I have doubts its an alternator pulley, unless the cars running voltage is really low. What was the voltage when the car was running with the underdrive pulley?

"Stalling" as in you try to go to idle and the motor just quits? Does it restart? Do you have to wait a bit to restart or??

Some more details would be helpful.

-Justin
--
'76 02 (USA), '05 Toyota Alphard (Tokyo) - http://www.bmw2002.net

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You sure it isnt some sort of intermittent ECU issue or signaling issue? How does it read timing? It sounds very electrical to me, and I have doubts its an alternator pulley, unless the cars running voltage is really low. What was the voltage when the car was running with the underdrive pulley?

"Stalling" as in you try to go to idle and the motor just quits? Does it restart? Do you have to wait a bit to restart or??

Some more details would be helpful.

Crank sensor for timing. The mech read it at 9 volts with the underdrive pully. Installing the stock one bumped it back to 12-ish, though I can't remember the exact number he gave me. I mean "stalling" as in driving at any speed/any rpm and then suddenly loosing 1 - 4 (or all) cylinders. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all. Sometimes it happens every 1/2 mile. I'd like to think we fixed that today and I'm quite sick of thinking about it. Now where did all the power go?

Michael Rose

'91 Porsche 964
'00 Dodge Durango
'13 Honda Pilot

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Apart from the electrical side - which your problem is likely related to - how's the fuel supply? Clean lines, good working pump?

Yeah, good pressure at about 30 psi and strong Bosche pump. Brand new braided lines. Most of the prime/aux components in this car are brand new due to the nature of the motor.

Michael Rose

'91 Porsche 964
'00 Dodge Durango
'13 Honda Pilot

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Are you able to do any data logging with the Haltech system?

Yes, though everything checked out according to the mechanic. He knows Haltech and I originally took it to him thinking those misfires/stalls I had was a software tuning problem, but he said everything looked fine. This perplexes me and I'd love to get a second opinion now.

Michael Rose

'91 Porsche 964
'00 Dodge Durango
'13 Honda Pilot

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Bummer Mike,

Any chance you can download and post the log file off of the Haltech? I'm not familiar with this system but the basic concepts with EFI are pretty standard across the board and someone here may be able to give you some insight on the issue.

I wish I was closer or I would drop by. I've been screwing up EFI systems on my cars for years...

KC

...do you wash your underpants while wearing them in the shower ? (C.D. - 5/28/2009)

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Check the parameters for driving the coil. Sounds like it could be cutting out due to wrong dwell or trigger parameters. You can go on the Haltech section of http://www.efi101.com/forum/ and get some help. What model Haltech E6x or a Platinum?

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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I'm no electrical expert by any means, but I've always seen a minimum of 13 volts when running. You really need to check your grounds as well as have your alternator checked out to make sure you're getting enough voltage. I've seen this issue while running megasquirt and with solid grounds and good stable voltage it was like night and day!

'74 2002 Megasquirted!

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have you done the wiring yourself or it was a pre-made wiring harness ?

there might be an intermitent short/cut off in the wiring.

most EFI system work down to 9v, but lower than that it is not good anyway, have a constant 12-14v at first.

there might be also EMI/EMF induction from bad grounds or bad coil wires, which fed back into the ecu and causes it headache.

for instance, SDS warns about some specific coil wires that can causes this on their systems.

2006 530xi, 1974 2002 Automatic summer DD
1985 XR4TI, 22psi ±300hp
1986 yota pick-up, 2006 Smart FT diesel

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kcdonahue - I'm working on getting the log posted up.

jimk - E6X

themoose - The voltage is good now as far as I know

PatAllen - I had lots of help, to include wiring. Though it looks fairly well done. I'll look into it.

Michael Rose

'91 Porsche 964
'00 Dodge Durango
'13 Honda Pilot

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This is from my megasquirt Experience more than anything, But try doing like a fuel / timing trouble shoot, try making it richer/leaner at the RPMS, see how it likes it, then do the same with advancing, and retarding the timing. AFter fiddling with mine I got it to finally chill out.

Next up, I would definitley fiddle with throttle position as well, sometimes, a little throttle adjustment does a worlds of difference. ask me how I know...

efi tuning is troublesome, but it really ends up being something really stupid in the long run, considering these cars were meant to run on, a carb which essentially just dumps fuel and hopes for the best ;)

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jimk - E6X

Then check your dwell settings. If too much the coil will overheat, not enough and it won't have the power to light the torch, especially at high loads at any speed.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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