Can't Keep it running :(

[omar510]

So I have been working on a 76 i got fairly recently for the past couple of days. This is the first carburetor car i have touched. I rebuilt the stock solex didta and set both screws to the baseline settings according to its manual. 1 and 1/2 turns to 2 turns on both screws. The only way I can get it started is by putting some gasoline into the carb. It will turn on but as soon as I let go of the gas pedal it will die. I have replaced all spark plugs/wires, cap, rotor, points, condensor. the egr works properly. how do i know the idle solenoid works? I left the car in the on position and attached and disconnected the wire that connects to it. i dont feel any movement or hear a click. is it a vacuum leak? any help is appreciated

[c.d.iesel]

....you should hear a " CLICK " when putting/taking power off of the solenoid

timing WAY OFF might not help things also

tired fuel pump also - - put pump outlet

hose into a quart jar and crank for 15 seconds

you should see atleast 1/4 quart

[omar510]

I don't hear the click. I have a multimeter. How much current or voltatge needs to be supplied to the line?

The fuel pump is working

How would I check the timing if I have difficulty starting it and impossible to keep it running?

[tjones02]

Turn the ignition key on to run position and take the wire off of the idle solenoid, you should hear an audible click when you take it off and touch it on... OK you've done that so it sounds like you need a new solenoid or don't have 12Volts at the wire with the key on.

The BMW solenoids are prohibitively expensive but you can get a Volkswagen one for much cheaper and it works.

Next: are you sure your dwell is set properly to 58 or 60? The timing can be set statically to zero by turning the motor over until you see both #1 cylinder cam lobes pointed down through the oil cap hole AND the flywheel at TO through the bellhousing timing hole. You can even set the timing with a light bulb and some wire but that's not necessary yet...

HTH

[omar510]

I slapped on a Weber 32/36 that I rebuilt and on the second crank it fired right up and settled into a nice smooth idle! I was really excited. I set the timing but will redo it all later when i get a Dwell meter. I drove it up and down the street. No stuttering or stumbling. Really SMOOTH!

I left the car running while doing the timing and noticed that the temperature gauge was at 3/4. Is this because it was idling for so long (15 mins +/-) or is it not normal? I never drove the car so I don't have an idea of where it should be at under different conditions.

I also bled the brakes with a power bleeder. It has a little more pressure but still not enough to be safe. Should I try again or suspect that it is a master cylinder issue?

[tjones02]

I left the car running while doing the timing and noticed that the temperature gauge was at 3/4. Is this because it was idling for so long (15 mins +/-) or is it not normal? I never drove the car so I don't have an idea of where it should be at under different conditions.

I also bled the brakes with a power bleeder. It has a little more pressure but still not enough to be safe. Should I try again or suspect that it is a master cylinder issue?

1: They shouldn't do that, should be around half even at idle. Time to do a cooling system shakedown. Including verifying that there isn't any head gasket or head cracking issue.... Verify first if the thermostat is opening by feeling the lower radiator hose when the temp is above half way.

I really like having a temp gun around to check many things like coolant temp, radiator efficiency etc. etc...

http://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-laser-thermometer-96451.html

To test for head gasket leakage use a regular cooling system pressure tester and then a...

http://www.amazon.com/UVIEW-560000-Combustion-Leak-Tester/dp/B000NPDL76

2: Have you bleed all three nipples on the front calipers?

Inner, Outer then Top.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,341354/highlight,caliper/

[omar510]

I have only had time to work on the cooling an not brakes. I noticed that the car overhears slightly while idling for ten minutes or more with only water in the system. I did a prestone super flush twice. There is still a light rust in the system. Do I need a new radiator or is it a more serious problem such as blocked water channels in the motor? It gets slightly less with each flush

[omar510]

I have only had time to work on the cooling an not brakes. I noticed that the car overhears slightly while idling for ten minutes or more with only water in the system. I did a prestone super flush twice. There is still a light rust in the system. Do I need a new radiator or is it a more serious problem such as blocked water channels in the motor? It gets slightly less with each flush

[omar510]

I have only had time to work on the cooling an not brakes. I noticed that the car overhears slightly while idling for ten minutes or more with only water in the system. I did a prestone super flush twice. There is still a light rust in the system. Do I need a new radiator or is it a more serious problem such as blocked water channels in the motor? It gets slightly less with each flush

[tjones02]

Verify first if the thermostat is opening by feeling the lower radiator hose when the temp is above half way.

I really like having a temp gun around to check many things like coolant temp, radiator efficiency etc. etc...

http://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-laser-thermometer-96451.html

To test for head gasket leakage use a regular cooling system pressure tester and then a...

http://www.amazon.com/UVIEW-560000-Combustion-Leak-Tester/dp/B000NPDL76

I have only had time to work on the cooling an not brakes. I noticed that the car overhears slightly while idling for ten minutes or more with only water in the system. I did a prestone super flush twice. There is still a light rust in the system. Do I need a new radiator or is it a more serious problem such as blocked water channels in the motor? It gets slightly less with each flush

How slight is slight to you???

Having a way to verify what temperature the motor is actually running at is crucial. Even using a cooking thermometer in the radiator with the cap off will help. The temp sender in the water neck and the gauge can LIE.

At operating temp if the lower rad hose feels very nearly as hot as the upper one the thermostat is open; then feel across the radiator for cool spots... that is an indicator of a poorly flowing radiator core.

Have a look in the radiator with the cap off. How do the tubes for the core look? As you say the coolant is still a bit rusty, that's not a problem and the metal surfaces inside the radiator will also look rusty... I'd like to know if there are any crusty deposits inside the radiator and do they look to be blocking any of the tubes in the core?? If you felt any cool spots across the radiator these deposits are clogging up the works. If the radiator is in otherwise good condition a good radiator shop can do a chemical boiling out of the radiator or in worse cases can even de-solder the tanks, rod clean the core and put the tanks back on.

If you would ever like to work with a shop that really knows and cares for BMWs and especially '02s, come see us at CaseyMotorSports.com in Petaluma. We're worth the drive.