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Running After 12+ years, Oil Change? *Update* She's Purring


02Coastie

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I just bought an 02 that has been sitting for the better half of 12 years. It has been started recently (not by me) and apparently ran. I plan to drop the oil pan, clean it out and then put fresh Oil/filter in it before I actually start it. While I normally would use synthetic, I'm thinking of just using regular dino oil with some sort of cleaner/additive for the next 500 miles, then draining an replacing w/synthetic. Am I being too cautious or does this sound like a good plan of action?

Thanks!

-Lloyd

"Sabine" 1976 Polaris / Navy - 12+ year Inop Ebay Find. Now with Microsquirt and Cold A/C. 

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Probably safer than how I did it. Mine had sat 15 years. I just used a breaker bar on the crank pulley to free the motor up. Then changed the oil, points, etc, put gas in the tank, new battery and cranked away. After a few minutes of fiddling it ran fine.

I believe there is a safer more educated way to do it

I'm not as dumb as I look

74 Verona

06 Audi A3

09 Mercedes C300

06 VW Passat

03 VW Conv Beetle

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Not necessary to drop the oil pan. I've seen oil flow out that has been sitting for 30 years and it mostly comes out.

I would run it for a bit (say 500 miles) and change it again though, the new oil will clean things up fast.

Another old trick is to use a 1 quart of ATF with the quarts of oil, its very effective at cleaning up sludge.

Fuel tank/fuel lines is another story. That should be entirely cleaned out unless it was 100% empty. Old fuel is nasty stuff. You'll forever have rust/crud clogging up the fuel system if you don't

-Justin
--
'76 02 (USA), '05 Toyota Alphard (Tokyo) - http://www.bmw2002.net

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Yeah, I just remembered what a pain it was to drop the pan on these cars. I think I'll see what the oil looks like and then go from there. Any tips on cleaning out the tank? I have some pumps that are made to handle oil/diesel and can use those to empty the tank.

"Sabine" 1976 Polaris / Navy - 12+ year Inop Ebay Find. Now with Microsquirt and Cold A/C. 

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You want something that will dissolve residue in the ring area and clear out the oil return holes in the pistion behind the oil ring.

Put fresh oil in it and add http://www.auto-rx.com/ (No, I don't sell the stuff).

I am currently cleaning out a M20 in a E30. From the valve cover oil fill cover hole I can see the heavy stuff is about removed. It will take at least 3K miles.

Use it with a Type III synthetic, not the Amsoil high grade stuff (XL stuff is ok) or Mobil I. The other garden variety synthetics are Type III and may be used. Dino is ok too.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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I definitely recommend that you clean out the fuel tank since the 02 has been sitting for so long. Check with your local radiator shop, some radiator shops also do fuel tank refurbishment as well. I bought a 73 Bavaria that sat for 11 years and I took the Bav fuel tank to a radiator shop where they all cleaned out the old gas that had turn into a jello blob varnish like goo inside the tank. Also blow some compressed air through the fuel lines, replace all rubber hoses, rubber fuel lines and rubber brake line hoses since they are all dry rotted. You'll probably want to rebuild your carb as well to get rid of the gas that's turned into a varnish like substance in the carb. I'm sure the tires are probably dry rotted. Flush the coolant system and brake/clutch hydraulics. I'm sure others will chime in that have been there, done that. You've definitely got your self a project car, keep us updated on your progress in the project blog section.

G-Man

74 tii (many mods)
91 318i M42

07 4Runner

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get a cheap elec fuel pump from the auto parts store, some fuel line some wire and a 12v switch. assemble it so that you have a transfer pump. pull stock fuel pick up out. stick suction side of elec pump in the hole and turn on, draining fuel into some jug. once old fuel is out look in tank with flash light. look ok?

now disconnect the fuel line at the engine, run it to a container. put intake of transfer pump in container of clean fuel and connect output to the fuel pickup line in trunk. run pump to push clean fuel through system to engine compt. all done?

replace stock pickup in tank, put new filter in, reconnect hose at carb.

blast carb with some carb cleaner.

change oil.

pull spark plugs and shoot a little marvel mystery oil in the cyls.

turn over a few times with ignition disconnected.

try starting.....

2xM3

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If'n it was mine,

I'd do the cheap electric fuel pump thing

(great idea, btw, and it checks and flushes all the plumbing)

I'd take the top off the carb and clean all the

junk out of the bowl and check the float valve-

if it sticks, you get gas all over.

put dino oil and a new filter in it,

and crank it without the plugs until I saw oil

pressure.

While I was doing that, I'd make sure it had spark. And if

I was using the mechanical pump,

also check for fuel flow.

Then go for it.

COngrats!

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Thanks to everyone's ideas and help, she's purring beautifully. I drained the tank and flushed the lines per mlytle's suggestion. The cap/rotor/plugs all looked to be practically new (tii distributor!) so I put them all back. I then did a quick oil flush and buttoned everything back up. A little manual choke and she fired up immediately. After about 2-3min I secured the choke and she settled into a nice steady 800rpm idle. I was shocked. I never remember my 74 being as smooth. It's definitely a good omen. On to the brakes!

-Lloyd

"Sabine" 1976 Polaris / Navy - 12+ year Inop Ebay Find. Now with Microsquirt and Cold A/C. 

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