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should new pads rub a little?


norma

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Just put new bearings, rotors, calipers and pads in front on my 73 and new shoes in the rear and I bled it with new fluid. But the new pads are rubbing slightly. Someone said here before that that's okay at first. I'm a little concerned. Should I be? What should I do? Bleed it again? They were fine, no rubbing, before the bleeding so I would think it's just the pressure from the bleeding itself. What do you guys think?

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Here's an easy test- go drive a couple of miles, using the brakes as

little as you can, then feel the front wheels.

They should be cold.

If the pads are dragging too much, the hubs and rims will be anywhere

from lukewarm to smoking.

Then you'll need to clean up the calipers and put in new seals.

hth,

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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zero drag - free to spin before and after a drive

it's not a function 'bleeding'

what kind of pads did you install ?

how old are the calipers?

got new pad retaining springs?

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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Sorry to hijack - but still along the same subject line...

My left front brake caliper generates more pad dust than the passenger side. My car had remanufactured calipers and new rotors installed back around 2001, along with all new bearings and S/S braided flex lines. I flushed the fluid earlier this year using a pressure bleeder and it still happens. The brakes pull evenly and there aren't any leaks. I also cleaned and repacked the wheel bearings this year (two adjustments were made to the bearing tightness).

Should I be worried? Any suggestions?

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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......yes - AFTERMARKET - read Not BMW Textar or Jurid brake pads

can be made with poor tolerance backing plates, rough edges

where it slides in the caliper, thicker friction material. All this leads to a pad that advertises the moon- no dust this and less fade that......crappy quality fit..

Use BMW pads with correct retaining springs, free moving (easy

to retract) pistons, no rust or dirt, and you should have a free spinning rotor

Have a Safe Weekend !

mesidecarreduced.jpg

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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lol Cd I think you mean well but there are tons of well made pads that exceed textar and jurids standards depending on what you want your brake pads to do.

textar and jurid are fine pads but they are overpriced over the counter.

and pads by nature are going to drag. They arent like drum brakes. They shouldnt drag to the point of creating heat but they do contact the rotor at all times. Rick, drive it 30 or 40 miles and do like Toby suggested. My guess is youre fine

www.BluntTech.com
FAQ Supporting Vendor
 Sales@BluntTech.com

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