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  2. The blue book ignition values for a USA Tii are as follows. 1000 RPM - 0 to 4 degrees BTDC 1500 RPM - 10 to 14 degrees BTDC 2000 RPM - 15 to 20 degrees BTDC 2500 RPM - 21 to 26 degrees BTDC 2700 RPM - 25 degrees BTDC. Based on these values, I would create a map in the 123 Ignition App that falls right in the middle of these values. 1000 RPM - 2 degrees BTDC 1500 RPM - 12 degrees BTDC 2000 RPM - 17 degrees BTDC 2500 RPM - 23 degrees BTDC 2700 RPM - 25 degrees BTDC Then I would verify the map by setting/holding the idle at 2700 RPM and use a timing light to verify the flywheel steel ball in the viewing port. If your TDC setup of the 123 Distributor was done correctly, the steel ball on the flywheel should be in the viewing port at 2700 RPM. If it isn't, you can loosen the 10mm nut under the 123 distributor and slowly turn the distributor until the steel ball appears in the viewing port at 2700RPM. If you have a variable timing light, you can verify the degrees of advance across the entire RPM range. Once this is done, you can drive it around and see if you like the result. Lots of other variables go into the proper tuning of your car, condition of ignition components, spark plug gap, octane levels, fuel delivery, barometric pressure, etc. This ignition map is only the start, but it allows you to make adjustments that would be problematic on an OEM Tii distributor. I hope this helps. Mark92131
  3. Yeah that was a great time Duncan! I'm down for another meet but at the moment we're not allowed any indoor seating, and outdoor seating goes quick due to less seating available / allowed. Maybe when the rules loosen up a bit? - Rich
  4. I've helped install so many of these 123 units over the last couple years and something that MUST be done is to confirm the static position of the unit by confirming timing with a variable timing light. Install the 123 and get the engine running. Hook up your advancing timing light Run the engine up to a steady rpm, say 2000 rpms. Set your timing light for the advance number for 2000 rpm on your 123 curve and find the OT mark either on the lower crank pulley, or flywheel. If the OT mark isn't spot on, then loosen the 10mm nut and rotate the 123 body until the OT mark is correct in the strobe (note, rpm will change as you rotate the dizzy, so you will need to maintain that rpm level at the same time) Only after you have confirmed the 123 is correctly set can you rely on any changes you make to the curve. Ed Z
  5. Over, under... i don't get it. Where do you get rod bearings in oversize?
  6. Really?....Pee will increase surface hardness? I might change my undies less often.
  7. Looking to buy a dome light for a sunroof car. Thanks
  8. Danny: Is it possible that the front short bumper ends are actually short rear bumper ends? If so, I would be interested in just the ends for the rear. Thanks, Mark92131
  9. I'm putting my M10 block outside this winter while I finish the body work. Any time I need to relieve myself....
  10. I have a '68 02 and I'm looking to replace all of the rear bushings. My car has the long neck differential, are the bushings (Subframe, trailing arm, differential) different for the early cars with the long neck diff versus the later cars with the short neck diff? I was looking at Ireland Engineering, and they list the same for '68-'76. Are there any other/better options for these bushings than Ireland? I was thinking of going with urethane. Thanks, Dave
  11. Today
  12. They were modified by the previous owner. Sure will get some photos to you.
  13. And, you’ll have a top end of 147 mph... 😋 Best regards, Steve
  14. Curious about how you modified these. Can you add pics of the mounting points and the underside of the seats?
  15. FS: Butlers 1589 rally map light in very good condition, this is the shorter one. Price 135 euro + shipping.
  16. Genuine e30 sport seats that are modified to sit properly on your existing 2002 stock seat rails. Ride height same as a e21 Recaro seat. Very supportive and in excellent shape. Will come with all necessary brackets etc to bolt right in. $750 plus shipping. As always, I take PayPal [email protected]
  17. The reason I said take to engine builder is for that very reason, I had a motor that was supposedly rebuilt when I put my car together but since I didn't put motor together I didn't trust it. I took my motor to builder (friend) to double check everything and he found same problem as yours. Previous rebuild used standard main bearings on a .010 ground crankshaft.
  18. There are 02 people in the Albany area for sure. Wish I could help with that. Not to change the subject too much but do you guys know if there's been any talk of an Astoria gathering? Was a good time. Duncan
  19. You get 45 mpg highway, though. According to the Blue Book, the diff ratio changed about 600 cars after mine. So it did change to 3.64 towards the end of euro '72s if the book is correct. Scott
  20. Holy cow! What a lovely looking little thing. Is it just me, or does it look like it might be a few different shades of Inka - on that side-of-the-car shot? I think Les might be correct re the interior. Still, my friend has a '72 Inka car from SoCal, and it is so clean and dry underneath it is ridiculous. If this one is like that one...totally worth it. Scott
  21. 1600ti clone! I just need to hire Gerock to build it for me! I do think he needs something to occupy his time. And this sure would do that. Scott
  22. I bought glass & seals for trap mirrors in 2005 at the BMW Dealer in San Antonio, TX. The quality was so-so at best. The seals barely fit the frame and the glass barely fit the seal. Think the brand was Frees or something like that. At the same time I bought the trap mirror to door seal that didn't even come close to fitting (didn't fit the flag mirror either). Suffice to say, I was not impressed with the so-called BMW OEM parts bought through the Dealer.
  23. Lets see your curve? While you can make adjustments via turning the 123, why would you? Simply type in a more or less aggressive curve into the App. You can verify the curve with a timing light.
  24. If you have the blue book, it has the stock advance curves. I know because I copied one to give to Advanced Distributors when they rebuilt my distributor. You could start with a stock tii curve in other words. And yes, you can impact the timing by twisting the 123, just like a regular distributor, as I understand it. So I believe you will need to reconcile the curve in the 123 and the static timing (amount of twist in the distributor), to understand what timing your engine is really seeing. You can check that with a variable timing light right now, if you have one. You could start your car and retard the timing a bit by turning the 123, and see if it runs better. Just turn it a tiny amount. Edit: If you do have an adjustable timing light, you can have someone rev it up to 3,000 rpm. It should be at about 32 or so degrees of advance. Ultimately, that is what you're after. You could just turn the 123 until you are in that ballpark, as a first step. Then go back to "what is the curve" in there, and all that. Double Edit: I am a novice at most of these car things, but I did buy an adjustable timing light, and learn how to adjust the timing. It is really easy. You do need to paint the marks on the pulleys on the front of the engine to do it, though. That is step one. Scott
  25. bump. Been dragging my feet about trying to sell this project, but it does need to move on to the next caretaker. If you're interested in building a 1600/2002, this will save you months of time in your build process. As a bonus, the car comes with a pint of glasurit 90 line ($$$) in Derby. I bought it to have some touch up done and the remainder will go with the car.
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