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  2. hi ,Mike i am about to paint my 1967 1600- dash cluster because the silver is faded,did you ever come up with some thing that is close to the factory finnish cheers Keven mosen


  3. now listen here, Don't crush my coastal dream.
  4. Thanks to everyone for the help. I think it came out fairly nicely. One mistake, but thankfully you can't see it.
  5. I might have one. What's your best offer?
  6. I'll bet some of these folks have leads on some stuff. Language might be a barrier though. https://www.bmw02club.nl/forum.html
  7. Yikes! I was just under the impression that euro was “tighter” but after all that info I think I’ll stick to my stock one haha.. As always, thanks for the great insight!
  8. Here is the plan... meet up at Council Crest park, Portland at 10:30 for some photos and then head to Sylvan and Hwy 26 to lunch at Helvetia Tavern then after to Sauvie Island wrap up before traffic. There is also a PNW2002 facebook page if anyone in the PDX area is hoping to get connect.
  9. Oh my. Best laid plans today. Started good enough - got my control arms and bushings together, took them down to the local machine shop ("we should be able to do this, no problem...") and then went along my merry way down to IE. While there, I get a call from the tech at the machine shop - "your control arms still had the outer part of metal from the old bushings, so I took one out, but I can't seem to get the bushing to go in!" WTF. Since I'm literally at the counter at IE, I ask them to bring me one of their control arms to take a look. Sure 'nuff, there's a metal sleeve inside each bore, as they come factory. Duh. This asshat at the shop has now completely f*cked my control arm. I buy my end link hardware and the gland nut wrench, and I'm about a minute down the road when I have a sneaking suspicion that I'm not going to get to use stock rubber on this project, so I head back and buy a full set of poly bushings as an insurance policy. Get back to the shop, and he's totally wrecked the control arm and one of the bushings. The inner sleeve from the outer bore is a mangled mess, as is the bushing he tried to force into the bore...without the inner sleeve. "I swear it just popped right out!" Well, yeah, if you go at it with a screwdriver and some pliers, moron. Fortunately, he started working on the one where I had the inner already set, so the other arm was still intact. I retrieve my intact arm, take it home and tell them to try and find a replacement for less than $300 (Guess what - doesn't exist. F*ing idiots.) I get started on the other control arm, and insert the poly bushings. Still a really tight fit, takes some persuasion from my BFH but I get those all set. I finish assembling the strut, install the inner side of the outer tie rod, and then do my fancy safety wiring while on the workbench. I also tried my luck and pulled the idler arm bushing from the subframe. Took some work with a drill, a mat knife, and some channel locks, but that finally comes out. Poly goes in to that bore with no issue. Finally, I get a call from the shop who hosed my control arm, and they said for me to come down and get some cash as a replacement. I got $240 out of them, figuring that the $60 is good karma since they did spend time trying to find a replacement and doing work, even if it ended up hurting them. So now I have a full strut assembly and complete control arm ready to install. I also spent some time hitting the tension arm with the die grinder and some spray enamel, so those look good and match up to the other hardware under the car. Frustrating day, now I'm off to find another replacement control arm....
  10. If it’s not a 99500x it’s not a TI/sa, they only made 200
  11. If pistons get scrubbed to clean them up it might hide the scuffing that takes place on the skirts if a piston has been overheated and too much cleaning may not make sense. I though the first pic was a piano top.
  12. I used 2.5 to 3 as a start with newer 40s. Thats what I read.
  13. The Bosch SR-71X, 440 and 441 all fit and are a great improvement. Just be careful when hooking them up. Either the 440 or 441 has an always hot terminal at the 6:00 position where the original is switched power to bypass the ballast resistor on the original starter. Hook up an always powered terminal and watch your ballast resistor glow cherry red!
  14. As FunElan has also explained, CCA judging is based on Cleanliness unless in a Preservation Category of which we only see two or maybe three cars a year at Legends. I judged this 1600 and found it quite original but also mentioned that they used euro stickers in the engine bay and the differences were minor other than the steering wheel. It was Super clean however, even the underside as the photos attest.
  15. Look kids, Big Ben, Parliament.
  16. Today
  17. That one looks like it survived a fire! Lordy! Poor little guy... probably kept up for a mile or two... **sniff!** #vacationhumor
  18. When I first got mine 5 years ago the engine was in pieces - in the trunk in the photo. Engine is done. Doing the interior now. 🙂.
  19. Like some others here, I have E21 Recaros from Aardvarc Racing. I love them.
  20. You forgot, smoged and ALL fees paid plus free ice cream.
  21. A tale of woe. As I rebuild my car, I will be damned if not everything that was once formerly attached to this car has not needed absolute attention or complete replacing. Now that the rebuilt K-fisher is installed-and the engine running, I turned to the cooling system. Snap! need another fan blade. Looking for the exact style as shown in the image.
  22. Those seats are ok, but I really like the Frigiking!
  23. You invited them with the OBO. I'll take it for $800 delivered
  24. $18.99 End Date: Tuesday Mar-17-2020 18:41:50 PDT Buy It Now for only: $18.99 Buy It Now | Add to watch list View the full listing
  25. Genuine Alpina parts for a genuine Alpina 1970 2002 wanted! Hello everybody. I know I’m looking for unobtainium however I am hopeful these parts exist. I picked this 1970 Alpina car last year. Its one of two delivered to Calgary back in the day. I have the Alpina paperwork and have been able to confirm its authenticity through Alpina as well. I’m not going to tackle the car for a bit but I figured I should make a post for Alpina parts. I am only looking for genuine parts. I think a genuine car should have genuine parts! Heres the list, please contact if you can help! Thanks! Pre August 1970 date stamped round hole CMR BORRANIS 5.5”x13” Original Three gauge auxiliary Pod Alpina Ti Airbox with original bracket My headers might be saveable but I would be interested in Alpina headers that are in great condition. This car wasn’t optioned with an Alpina Momo but I would love to find one in nice original shape with solid momo hub. If you can help that would be greatly appreciated! The parts will go on a genuine car and were originally on this car! I am super happy it still retains the original Valve cover with the gray hammered texture, roll cage and gauge cluster. I assume that would be impossible to find! I’m sure there aren’t too many MPH Alpina speedometers out there.
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