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  1. Today
  2. Its called the Quick Jack. If anyone is reading these entries and uses this same lift system, if you could please add your input on the worthiness of this lift I’d sure appreciate it.
  3. Beautiful as is the rest of your stuff but at $650 that's a hard pass for me.
  4. Yesterday
  5. pmg

    Moving is not easy

    Wonderful. Don't take me literally when I said don't change anything. As I understand it, a lot of care went into getting that property listed as historic, but even the original architects added that second floor master and rad sauna. Sure some purists will grumble but the nice thing about this forum is there's a whole second category of people that restomod things to taste.
  6. Last week
  7. How do I get in on the shirt? Is it too late? AGH......... I just read the whole thread...... I’ll take 2 large when they become available. How is payment made?
  8. This is a list of the current things I have noticed about the car, roughly in order of how serious I am about fixing them. The goal is to separate out each of these into it's own blog post, regardless of size, but we will see how that works out. Burning oil/bad smells. There is a reason I have named the car "Mr Toots"; there is the acrid smell of (what I believe to be) burning oil when I drive it. Originally, I suspected valve guide seals, because of problem #2, but I've noticed that there is oil around the valve cover and believe it is either the valve cover gasket or PCV system. Here's the entry I made on the replacement. The replacement helped a little, but not much. After I took the car in to my mechanic for a tune-up, he diagnosed the smells as transmission fluid on the exhaust, from a leaky rear seal. This problem is fixed, now. Really slow cold start. When I got the car, it started quickly. I'd hit a priming button on the dash to inject fuel into the manifold for around 2 seconds, then turn it over and start quickly. I performed an oil change after I got the car to 20W50 Full Synthetic, and now it takes a lot of love to get it to start when cold, involving multiple priming attempts and turning on and off the extra fuel injectors. The root cause of a lot of this is the cobbled-together nature of the fuel injection system. It seems like changing the oil was the root of the problem, which seems like an ill omen. Different people have suggested the valve guides are worn or something like that, but I don't get a lot of smoke when the car does start, so I'm not sure about that. I eventually fixed this by noticing that the cold start relay was unplugged from the battery. I must have knocked it loose during the oil change. Idiot! I further fixed this by replacing the old, leaky intake runners. Handbrake is not strong enough. I was hoping this was a simple cable adjustment, but from reading around, it isn't that simple and I may need to replace the rear drum lining. If I'm gonna do that, I'm probably going to look into a disc brake swap while I'm all up in there. Front seats don't fold forward. I know that they are not original, and I can't find a lever anywhere to adjust inclination. Found out the seats are from a later model 300-series car without inclination adjustment. I need to replace these seats to get full access to the back of the car. Low power. I fixed this with new intake runners and a new Bluetooth Distributor and some curve adjustment. The car is fun to drive but remarkably low on power before the turbo spools. Coming from a small british sportscar with a 1275cc engine, Mr. Toots feels very sluggish under 3000rpm, and roughly equivalent in 'oomph' when under 4psi of boost. My other car has a weight:power ratio of around 20:1, whereas a stock tii is nominally 17:1, so I think I should be getting a little more out in the lower range. This is a lower priority issue and I think other work on this car will improve the power more. I also know that chasing power is the best way to be disappointed in a car, so I don't care about this as much as long as I have that sweet, sweet boost to keep me company. Loose steering. There is about 10-15 degrees of play in the steering wheel when moving. I'd like to nail down the cause before deciding whether it is worth fixing. See #7 as well. Fluid check & swap. I've changed the engine oil but plan on also replacing: Turbo oil Coolant Gearbox oil: Completed by Mechanic in August, replaced rear seal as well. Diff fluid Suspension. The car feels pretty tight but I have doubts about the rear shocks. Will likely replace all shocks as an excuse to take a look at the car. Also will try to put as many bolt-on suspension upgrades as possible. Will not do anything that requires modifying the frame. I'd like to build a bolt-on rear strut reinforcement. I have found references to them existing in the past but can't find anyone selling them these days. If I move to adjustable rear coilovers, I'd like the extra reinforcement without needing to weld in a cage. Auxiliary stuff. These are just other things I want to do to the car: Fog light mounts. In progress, using some proprietary materials from work. Will publish once we've announced them publicly. Exhaust O2 sensor. Installation and mounting in console or on dash. Re-doing center console. Because it looks like crap. Tracking down stereo system problems. Despite having a costly looking setup, the sound quality is fairly garbage and the driver's side speaker cuts in randomly. I hate electrical work, so this is low priority. I'd like to find a way to get Campagnolo wheels on the thing, I love the look of vintage gold campy's or reproduction versions. Plus I am a bike person and I find the idea of putting Campagnolo wheels on a car funny. An E21 LSD swap would be fun, since I haven't touched that part of a car yet, but I am not sold on it yet. I'll know after I take a look at the diff during a fluid swap. After checking out all brakes, I may want to upgrade. The car stops well, but I need to be more maneuverable than anything else on the road to feel safe in a vehicle this old. Figuring out the body. Rear half of the car has a matte black primer job on it, front has glossy black which is cracking off. There is some red (likely Malaga) under the front black paint, but blue under the back. I think that the car was halfway primered with blue at some point. It's a mess. My mechanic confided in me that the rear clip of this car comes from a '75 or '76, which slipped the mind of the fellow that sold the car to me. I need someone really good to take a look at the weld job and see about blending everything in a bit more before doing a full repaint. There is a weld bead near the drivers side brake light. Clearly the car has seen an impact in that corner. Would like to investigate the rear frame more. There are a few random rust patches that I should treat. The hood is not aligned correctly and interferes with the passenger door opening. I need a buddy to help with this. It is high priority. I gave a non-car minded person a ride and they slammed the door, bending the corner of the hood to the point where it no longer opens. I have to bend it back out and re-align the hood. This really sucks right now. On 5/17, someone did a nice hit and run on the side and bent the driver side rear quarter panel in a bit. Animals. On 5/24, someone also shattered my left rear light. I think it was the garbage men. I'll update this list as time goes on, and provide links to the relevant posts for each issue.
  9. Earlier
  10. I can run traction control and from what I understand it works just like you said. You can program it for a certain amount of slip. The key to not blowing up your turbo is to use timing retard instead of fuel to remove power. If you lean out your turbo then bang... clack clack then the whatever it sounds like when your bank account is being drained (cha-ching perhaps?). I am seriously looking at a fly by wire throttle setup. It saves me having to snake a cable though the engine compartment, and is the best safest option for traction control on these turbo motors.
  11. So far I've put the fuel tank back in, rewrapped the wiring harness and taken all the brake parts off for reconditioning. But I've just now started taking photos so i'm going to jump in with this one of the firewall with insulation put in. The rotors back from machining: New rubber parts for the callipers: Bearings repacked, rotors and callipers back on: The steel lines in and the reconditioned master cylinder mounted: Took me weeks to get the various bits and pieces for the heater box and rebuild it, unfortunately I was having so much fun with it that I didn't take any photos! The pedal box and the pedals got a bit of a paint job and put back in. The handbrake mount is so flimsy! You can see the crack in it already. The aim of this stage of my restoration has been to put things back together and get the car moving although it has been hard with scope creep getting the better of me at times. I'm aiming to just replace/fix things which are obviously broken or will break very soon, the handbrake mount is one of those things. First a shot of it with the nice cracks showing after the paint stripper, then a shot of the butchered welding job I did on it: The handbrake cables were really stretched so I had to use 2 metal tubes as spacers to get the cables tight enough to lock the wheels. The handbrake switch is a bit of a joke, I have it adjusted now so that after one click of the handbrake lever the circuit is completed but I can see that it wouldn't take much to knock it out of adjustment. I haven't put the rubber boot back on so I'm not sure how it's going to go with the handbrake cable bolts sticking out so much, if it looks like it's going to rip the rubber I might have to undo it all, cut the bolts and shorten the spacer tubes. The brakes have been bled and the steering box cleaned out and refilled. Without any oil in it the steering box had some spots which it felt pretty rough when turning it, it's much better now that it is full of oil but I'm not sure how it will on the road. The steering wheel back in after doing the ball point pen mod for the horn contact Welded the accelerator pedal mounts to the floor Put sound insulation in Preparing to take the head off Separated the engine from the gearbox. And onto the stand Sheared coolant drain plug. Rest of the bolt is still in there. Took the head off, the block looks ok, lots of carbon deposit on the piston tops. The starter ring on the flywheel needs some attention. The flywheel might need some machining. The head looks ok, might get it pressure tested and cleaned. The bottom end. The oil pump chain is very loose and the replacement sprocket with 3 bolts is no longer available. I'm going to pull the engine out of the doner car and have a look at the oil pump on that and see if I can make a good one out of the two. Here's the engine out of the doner car which came with the unfinished project car that I bought. I started this engine 11 years ago, it blow massive amounts of (white, from memory) smoke. Here's a shot of block with the head removed and the gasket still on. Some of the holes in the gasket are blocked from all the rust deposits. I haven't taken too many engines apart but I was expecting to see some sort of damage in the gasket which would explain the smoking. Here is the head, lots of rust and deposits in the coolant channels and some corroded edges getting pretty close to the cylinders on #2 and #3 maybe that's where the smoke was coming from? After some scrubbing of the block here is what I found: Piston #3 and #4 have these weird pitting going on, what could cause that? #3 seems to have been in battle at some point will lots of bruises. 88.87 is stamped on the top all the pistons even though it is hard to see in some because of all the pitting. I guess this block hasn't been bored before. I could still see some patches of the cross hatching in the cylinder walls. Finally to the reason I pulled the engine, to see if I could make a good oil pump out of the two. Unfortunately this car has exactly the same problem with the oil pump as the other one, the chain is pretty loose (although less so). I was hoping this one would have the later type pump with the one bolt sprocket, but no such luck. I might get a new chain and a bunch of shims to see if I can get the chain reasonably tight and then look out for a new oil pump in the future. The pump internals themselves where still within spec, shame that sprocket is not available any more.
  12. Dude great minds think alike. I actually have an iphone 7 that I was going to use for the same purpose, but decided to go with a Pi instead as I was trying to go for a behr clone type of look and retain my A/C. It was just a little too wide to sneak everything in the places I wanted. Thanks for the tip on the 5v power supply. Kind Regards
  13. Looks good, although I think the sway bar is in upside down. It should drop down in the front to clear the engine.
  14. markmac

    In need of a shell

    +1 on Tommy's comments. At the end I don't know if you end up with a salvage title (to some that counts, others not so much). With the frame alignment equipment they have now, they can pretty much do anything. It is a matter of cost, but if you can find someone that works on classics you might have better luck than a 'collision shop' - best thing to gather as much info as you can, call/talk to whomever in your area that has the gear and then make an informed decision from there. I ended up putting an entire rear clip on my race car. Expensive? yes. I had no choice with this particular car. It ended up needing some pulling here and there but given how hard it was driven, is pretty straight (now). Good luck with your car.
  15. Nice going Andrew! Well deserved as always...
  16. While the car was cut to pieces, I spent time rebuilding the rear subframe and related parts. It was a nice break from all the grinding, cutting, and scraping on the body. The rear subframe was sand blasted by precariously hanging one end out of a HF sand blaster with a few trash bags strapped to the side to contain the dust. It was then primed with corroseal and coated with a few coats of brushed on gloss enamel. The same treatment was given to the differential case, diff bracket, and rear control arms. Luckily a set of refreshed control arms were included with the car. I was able to use these instead of performing surgery on the spring perches of the originals. For suspension I used the ST lowering springs found in the trunk. The PO had installed the fronts already, but not the back for some reason, probably because it would have crumbled... I matched these with KYB gas adjust struts, new rubber bushings in the control arms and subframe, poly subframe mount inserts from IE, IE poly diff bushings, and an IE rear sway bar. Brakes were left stock but new besides some stainless lines from BavAuto (RIP). I also bent and flared cunifer hard lines. I'm on the fence if the time effort is worth buying a new set. I have two original lines left in the car as of writing this. I'm pretty sick of flaring lines... I also took the opportunity to replace the diff fluid with red line and rebuild both axles with fresh boots and grease. IMG_0851.MOV
  17. The only sheet metal I purchased was rear subframe mounts from WN, everything else was self fabricated and welded out of sheet metal. Based on the quality of previous repair work and the overall condition of the car, I wasn't shooting for concourse grade work here. My goals were to make it safe, water tight, and to extend it's life by cutting out and patching any rust I could. The most involved (scary) parts of the project were the subframe reinforcement and the gas tank / trunk / rear fender area that were totally gone. Most surfaces that were not cut out were treated with coroseal rust converting primer. Everything was coated with an enamel, seem sealed, paintable rubberized undercoating, then sprayed again with gloss enamel top coat. IMG_0735.MOV
  18. zadaha

    How she sat

    I purchased the car a little over a year ago. I knew going into ownership that I was getting my self into a project. Not quite the scale it has turned into, but i'm still enjoying the process. A pre-purchase inspection showed lots of rust on the underside, mostly focused in the rear. In particular the subframe mounts, wheel wheels, spare tire holder, rear control arms, and shock towers were all swiss cheese. Basically the usual suspects... The PO had some less than stellar work done on the front to stabilize the floor and frame rails, so I looked at this car a good opportunity to learn with. The body was not in terrible shape, the worst areas were, and still are, the fenders, hood, and lower rear window frame. My game plan was to tackle the rear portion of the car with the goal of making it water tight. The farther I got in exploring the rust the more I realized this car was in need of serious surgery. I made decision to cut out and replace the rear subframe mounts in order to give the car another chance at life and a solid foundation to build the project on. Once this decision was made it lead to refurbishing and replacing nearly everything in the rear end. Below Are some photos of the car before any work got started.
  19. I dropped by the paint shop today to drop off the hood latch parts so that the body guy could set and align the hood. Here are some pics showing progress. Nose is getting some touch up and the hood is getting aligned. The original fenders have been patched and reattached. Begone rust, after market sheet metal shenanigans and DOT silliness! Doors and sides have been patched as well. No more side markers - or gas cap. The rear panel has been cleaned up and the lower valance replaced. Note the dead center exhaust. Last, they've started to address the trunk area. That's it for now. Another post soon to highlight some of the parts I recently picked up. Cheers, James PS. Shameless plug: I've posted several things for sale. BUY SOMETHING! I need to pay for this stuff 😉.
  20. those seats are so good! Great job!
  21. JerryB2002

    The one constant

    My Wife and I bought a new house. We close on it tomorrow and start moving on Wednesday. Before we bought I had a scare and I almost made a bad decision. That was to part out my project and let Betty go. A lot of people on this site were very nice and offered good prices for the parts that I had posted for sale. And they were even nicer when I came to my senses and retracted my ad. Everyone was very understanding. Jo and I would figure out how to make this work. The house we're buying only has a two car garage. We need three. So not only will I be moving into the new place, but will begin planning for a new detached workshop/garage! So, that bridge has been crossed and the project back on track. The sale of our current house and purchase of our new house proceeded. Deal's done and all that's left to do is pack up and move. Here's the thing. We've lived in this house for 21 years. Longest I've ever stayed put. The problem with staying in one place that long is you accumulate a lot of crap. And I mean a metric ton of junk. Literally. The Swiss I think have a word, Döstädning. I'm not sure I'm ready to embrace this fully, but damn, I have a lot of junk. The last several days have been spent purging and cleaning and purging and stuffing things into boxes. Everything for the car has been packed away except the seats, wheels, dash and the engine. The chassis has been hauled off to the painters. It'll be there for a couple months. The rest of her parts have been put into quite a few boxes. It's funny how a small car, when exploded like it is, takes up so much room! Today, I tackled how to get the engine off the stand and into a crate for transport to the new house. I've never build an engine crate before so I did some research. Which means YouTube. I figured that I'd use the old scrap wood I had in the shop and have at it. Here's what I came up with. It's pretty secure in there. Resting on the oil pan in a cradle. Then there are braces on the sides of the block to keep it from rocking. Also there are side supports to keep it from sliding back and forth. What's not shown are wheels I installed to make it easier to move around on the floor. It should do for the short move. At least I hope it will do!
  22. 50th Anniversary BMW CCA Oktoberfest was pretty awesome. With a few exceptions. 2 iconic BMWs were in the lobby of the hotel. Yale Rachlin's 1974 2002Tii & Parker Spooner's 1970 2800 CS. At dinner, I was notified by Paul Cain "There were not enough cars in Classic Super Clean" so I was bumped down to "Classic Clean". It rained Wednesday on the Concours. I discovered too late there were 6 cars in Classic Super Clean, after Vern had been judged! Needless to say I felt a bit cheated by this fiasco! Learned via text message later Wednesday evening Vern place 3rd, in Classic Clean, judges only did interiors because it was raining. After the Concours was over, I joined the BMW Classic CCA for a tour to Highlands North Carolina. The 507 had a fuel delivery issue and after some fussing was flatbedded back to The BMW CCA Foundation. The tour of the mountains was a two day affair. Aside from awesome roads we visited "The Wheels Through Time" Museum. All American bikes from Pebble Beach winners to one of Evel Kneivel's Harleys and everything in between. Dale Wexler wasn't there though his son Matt was, he spent considerable time with us and the Veritas. Aside from the car's fugliness, it has a BMW 328 motor. It was pretty cold & frosty in Highlands, in fact colder than my home Maine! Friday I headed back to the BMW Performance Center for a Charity Lap Ride in BMW NA's 25 CSL, I was 7th in line. As I was strapped in, I told Alex Schmuck this was a dream come true. He didn't disappoint. We were off with a quickness as Alex shifted & powered though the turns just shy of losing grip, I was having a blast! Quarter way into the 2nd lap as we exited turn on the CSL just quit running! We coasted to a stop, Alex tried to restart, as it was cranking over the battery died. Alex apologized profusely because I didn't get my full two laps. Though I was bummed, the time in the car was fantastic. We spent at least 30 minutes waiting for the tow vehicle. At 2pm Friday I said my goodbyes and headed North to Boston for a Retirement Party Saturday at 5 pm for a very good friend. Vern & I covered 1,052 miles and made it to the restaurant at exactly 5 pm! It was worth the trip to surprise him. "You're here! I thought you were in South Carolina!" I replied "I was. Wouldn't miss this this for anything!" Other highlights: Ed Zinzmier's 2000CS, simply stunning in person! Bo Black winning 1st in Classic Super Clean! The Coffee Soufflé at the Edwards Inn & Spa! Route 28 into & out of Highlands NC. Spending time with my BMW family, "If it weren't for the BMW CCA, I'd have no friends." - Andrew
  23. ■ Hello Is restoration progressing smoothly? I also repaired the grill in the past. The used grill I got was broken. I tried brazing but failed. Finally, the bent metal (wiper rubber core) was epoxy bonded. I am enjoying the restoration slowly.
  24. Very informative posts. Is there a consensus yet on what condensor is the largest that can be fit without having to cut into the sheet metal in the nose?
  25. JerryB2002

    In for a penny

    The whole tear down of Betty took the better part of 3 months. This included full cataloging, labeling, boxing and storage of the parts. While we were doing this many decision points were reached and made. I'd only ever restored one other car before this. That was Ringo our '67 Beetle. And that was just a partial restoration. I rebuilt that motor myself and the entire interior. We did not do paint because we wanted to keep that sweet sweet patina. For Betty though, we were going all in. In for a penny in for a pound for sure. Then we got her ready for paint. Had a dustless blaster come to the garage and remove the old paint in our driveway. Great work. But very messy! The results were great. What was best though is there were not big surprises regarding hidden rust or holes or huge masses of bondo!
  26. We'd had Betty for about half a year when I started noticing she was down on power. Was having trouble starting up in the morning and gasped a bit when pushed. Just like me! But one morning in the fall Jo said she went to start her up, it cranked, started then stopped. I went out to try my hand at starting, because I think I can turn a key better than anyone. Sure enough, it wouldn't start. Cranked but no start. After a quick check to make sure we're getting fuel, spark and air I rolled her back into the garage and started digging in. The last thing I checked was compression and sure enough the numbers were very bad. Diagnosis done, it was time for a rebuild. I called around and got advice from a few people. The shop we ended up choosing to do the work was Autosport Seattle. Great shop. Very knowledgeable and great customer service. And since we had the engine and transmission out AND it would take a few months to get it back, we figured now was as good a time as any to do a little 'light' restoration..... Little did I know that I would fall victim to the old "While you're in there" trap. Next thing you know, I'm stripping down the whole car with Jo, bagging and tagging parts, and prepping for paint! LOL
  27. As the crew from Car Additions loaded up Betty onto their trailer to haul her to the shop for body work and paint, I paused to think back on all of the work JoAnna and I have done to get here. It's been a slower path than I had planned, but life, as we all know, happens. We bought a 1976 BMW 2002 from a couple in Seattle after seeing an ad in Craigslist. I flew over from Spokane, took an Uber to their address and inspected the car. I was parked on the street and looked pretty good. The owners took me into their home and in their living room they had a large 3 ring binder filled with pictures, receipts and other things documenting the life the car had since new. After a brief conversation I went out to look over the car. It was obviously a Seattle car that had been parked under a pine tree and in the weather. It had the signs of having been covered by needles and moisture and moss in some places. But I only found a couple spots of rust. But nothing as bad as I was expecting. All of the glass was good, windows all operated including the rear quarter pop outs. I love those things! The paint was rough but no oxidized or worn through. The chrome was okay but had some corrosion in places. The huge diving board bumpers were in good shape and I hated them instantly. They handed me the keys and said to take it for a spin. It fired up after a couple cranks and blew a little smoke. I put it into drive and slowly drove it down their street and around the corner. The turn signals didn't work. The brakes were spongy and the seats were too springy. So, once around the corner I stabbed the gas pedal and sped off down the block. For an old automatic, it moved pretty quick but sputtered a little when off throttle. The big steering wheel felt good in the hands and the view outside of it's large windows was great. That old car smell filled my nose and I fell in love with the car right away! After several more minutes of driving on a few different streets I concluded my test drive and went in to negotiate the price. A few minutes later and a check written out to the previous owners of the car, I took the title and keys and proceeded to drive her the 300 miles back to Spokane in the dark. With no turn signals and as I would learn, very dim head lights. Here is a picture of her the next day with JoAnna at the wheel. Very happy girl!
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