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  1. Last week
  2. Or what do you do while you wait? The body is at the painter for some light body work and paint. I expect it to be there for a couple months. Maybe more. I did tell them that I wasn't in a hurry. Mainly because I haven't figured out where I'll put it once it's done or where I'll reassemble Betty. Garage space being what it is right now. So, I have time on my hands in regards to working on the car. So, what do I do? Well, I have several parts that still need restoring. The heater core is first. Then there are the front and rear subframes. Those aren't in bad shape, but could use new bushings and new paint. Seeing PaulTWinterton's work in the Sub-frame Paint? thread has me thinking about going that route. But as Steve mentioned in that same thread, black may be the actual color to use. Not that I'm going for any concourse winner level work with this restomod, I still want it to look period correct. We also need to work on are the interior pieces. We'll recover all of the stock seats and are looking for a good kit supplier. The sunroof parts need to be cleaned up and polished. I'll follow the advise here: http://www.my2002tii.com/spring_2005/sunroof.htm There are these little white clips that cover the rear pop out window mechanism that's crumbling and broken. Does anyone know where to get replacements? That's where Jo and I are now with the project. Waiting for the body to come back from paint AND restoring the little bits here and there.
  3. Question: Does the cap at the top tilt slightly to one side? Is that because the strut is actually sitting in a (oh, I don’t know) a 5 degree angle? I’ll have to dig up some info on that...
  4. Hi RH002AJ, Yes the adjusting nuts on my rear brakes were rusted, I was really careful not to round their heads because I didn't want to replace the backing plate. So I applied WD40 and let it sit and also applyed heat before patiently rotating them while spraying more WD40, the rust started to come out and they became easier to turn. Once they were pretty smooth I applied some spray on silicon grease to keep out the moisture in the future. I think the fact that these adjusting bolts are exposed to the outside and they are in a tight spot with the wheels and tyres means that they often get rounded off. Good point about the lubrication of the wire itself, I haven't done that but it might be a good time to do it with everything exposed right now. I am upto my neck with engine parts currently as I took one engine apart and now it has been confirmed that the pistons need replacing, today i am going to check the pistons on the parts-car fingers crossed maybe they are useable and I could put one working engine into the car while I rebuild another with new parts.
  5. In the end I had mine made up so I got them to look the way I wanted them.
  6. LOL, no, had templates to fit, cabrios are a lot different than 2002s.
  7. Yeah the photos are now what? 6 or 7 yrs old..... who do we contact to possibly correct this? And...their Photo Bucket Blurry....
  8. Beautiful as is the rest of your stuff but at $650 that's a hard pass for me.
  9. Earlier
  10. How do I get in on the shirt? Is it too late? AGH......... I just read the whole thread...... I’ll take 2 large when they become available. How is payment made?
  11. This is a list of the current things I have noticed about the car, roughly in order of how serious I am about fixing them. The goal is to separate out each of these into it's own blog post, regardless of size, but we will see how that works out. Burning oil/bad smells. There is a reason I have named the car "Mr Toots"; there is the acrid smell of (what I believe to be) burning oil when I drive it. Originally, I suspected valve guide seals, because of problem #2, but I've noticed that there is oil around the valve cover and believe it is either the valve cover gasket or PCV system. Here's the entry I made on the replacement. The replacement helped a little, but not much. After I took the car in to my mechanic for a tune-up, he diagnosed the smells as transmission fluid on the exhaust, from a leaky rear seal. This problem is fixed, now. Really slow cold start. When I got the car, it started quickly. I'd hit a priming button on the dash to inject fuel into the manifold for around 2 seconds, then turn it over and start quickly. I performed an oil change after I got the car to 20W50 Full Synthetic, and now it takes a lot of love to get it to start when cold, involving multiple priming attempts and turning on and off the extra fuel injectors. The root cause of a lot of this is the cobbled-together nature of the fuel injection system. It seems like changing the oil was the root of the problem, which seems like an ill omen. Different people have suggested the valve guides are worn or something like that, but I don't get a lot of smoke when the car does start, so I'm not sure about that. I eventually fixed this by noticing that the cold start relay was unplugged from the battery. I must have knocked it loose during the oil change. Idiot! I further fixed this by replacing the old, leaky intake runners. Handbrake is not strong enough. I was hoping this was a simple cable adjustment, but from reading around, it isn't that simple and I may need to replace the rear drum lining. If I'm gonna do that, I'm probably going to look into a disc brake swap while I'm all up in there. Front seats don't fold forward. I know that they are not original, and I can't find a lever anywhere to adjust inclination. Found out the seats are from a later model 300-series car without inclination adjustment. I need to replace these seats to get full access to the back of the car. Low power. I fixed this with new intake runners and a new Bluetooth Distributor and some curve adjustment. The car is fun to drive but remarkably low on power before the turbo spools. Coming from a small british sportscar with a 1275cc engine, Mr. Toots feels very sluggish under 3000rpm, and roughly equivalent in 'oomph' when under 4psi of boost. My other car has a weight:power ratio of around 20:1, whereas a stock tii is nominally 17:1, so I think I should be getting a little more out in the lower range. This is a lower priority issue and I think other work on this car will improve the power more. I also know that chasing power is the best way to be disappointed in a car, so I don't care about this as much as long as I have that sweet, sweet boost to keep me company. Loose steering. There is about 10-15 degrees of play in the steering wheel when moving. I'd like to nail down the cause before deciding whether it is worth fixing. See #7 as well. Fluid check & swap. I've changed the engine oil but plan on also replacing: Turbo oil Coolant Gearbox oil: Completed by Mechanic in August, replaced rear seal as well. Diff fluid Suspension. The car feels pretty tight but I have doubts about the rear shocks. Will likely replace all shocks as an excuse to take a look at the car. Also will try to put as many bolt-on suspension upgrades as possible. Will not do anything that requires modifying the frame. I'd like to build a bolt-on rear strut reinforcement. I have found references to them existing in the past but can't find anyone selling them these days. If I move to adjustable rear coilovers, I'd like the extra reinforcement without needing to weld in a cage. Auxiliary stuff. These are just other things I want to do to the car: Fog light mounts. In progress, using some proprietary materials from work. Will publish once we've announced them publicly. Exhaust O2 sensor. Installation and mounting in console or on dash. Re-doing center console. Because it looks like crap. Tracking down stereo system problems. Despite having a costly looking setup, the sound quality is fairly garbage and the driver's side speaker cuts in randomly. I hate electrical work, so this is low priority. I'd like to find a way to get Campagnolo wheels on the thing, I love the look of vintage gold campy's or reproduction versions. Plus I am a bike person and I find the idea of putting Campagnolo wheels on a car funny. An E21 LSD swap would be fun, since I haven't touched that part of a car yet, but I am not sold on it yet. I'll know after I take a look at the diff during a fluid swap. After checking out all brakes, I may want to upgrade. The car stops well, but I need to be more maneuverable than anything else on the road to feel safe in a vehicle this old. Figuring out the body. Rear half of the car has a matte black primer job on it, front has glossy black which is cracking off. There is some red (likely Malaga) under the front black paint, but blue under the back. I think that the car was halfway primered with blue at some point. It's a mess. My mechanic confided in me that the rear clip of this car comes from a '75 or '76, which slipped the mind of the fellow that sold the car to me. I need someone really good to take a look at the weld job and see about blending everything in a bit more before doing a full repaint. There is a weld bead near the drivers side brake light. Clearly the car has seen an impact in that corner. Would like to investigate the rear frame more. There are a few random rust patches that I should treat. The hood is not aligned correctly and interferes with the passenger door opening. I need a buddy to help with this. It is high priority. I gave a non-car minded person a ride and they slammed the door, bending the corner of the hood to the point where it no longer opens. I have to bend it back out and re-align the hood. This really sucks right now. On 5/17, someone did a nice hit and run on the side and bent the driver side rear quarter panel in a bit. Animals. On 5/24, someone also shattered my left rear light. I think it was the garbage men. I'll update this list as time goes on, and provide links to the relevant posts for each issue.
  12. I can run traction control and from what I understand it works just like you said. You can program it for a certain amount of slip. The key to not blowing up your turbo is to use timing retard instead of fuel to remove power. If you lean out your turbo then bang... clack clack then the whatever it sounds like when your bank account is being drained (cha-ching perhaps?). I am seriously looking at a fly by wire throttle setup. It saves me having to snake a cable though the engine compartment, and is the best safest option for traction control on these turbo motors.
  13. Dude great minds think alike. I actually have an iphone 7 that I was going to use for the same purpose, but decided to go with a Pi instead as I was trying to go for a behr clone type of look and retain my A/C. It was just a little too wide to sneak everything in the places I wanted. Thanks for the tip on the 5v power supply. Kind Regards
  14. Looks good, although I think the sway bar is in upside down. It should drop down in the front to clear the engine.
  15. markmac

    In need of a shell

    +1 on Tommy's comments. At the end I don't know if you end up with a salvage title (to some that counts, others not so much). With the frame alignment equipment they have now, they can pretty much do anything. It is a matter of cost, but if you can find someone that works on classics you might have better luck than a 'collision shop' - best thing to gather as much info as you can, call/talk to whomever in your area that has the gear and then make an informed decision from there. I ended up putting an entire rear clip on my race car. Expensive? yes. I had no choice with this particular car. It ended up needing some pulling here and there but given how hard it was driven, is pretty straight (now). Good luck with your car.
  16. Nice going Andrew! Well deserved as always...
  17. While the car was cut to pieces, I spent time rebuilding the rear subframe and related parts. It was a nice break from all the grinding, cutting, and scraping on the body. The rear subframe was sand blasted by precariously hanging one end out of a HF sand blaster with a few trash bags strapped to the side to contain the dust. It was then primed with corroseal and coated with a few coats of brushed on gloss enamel. The same treatment was given to the differential case, diff bracket, and rear control arms. Luckily a set of refreshed control arms were included with the car. I was able to use these instead of performing surgery on the spring perches of the originals. For suspension I used the ST lowering springs found in the trunk. The PO had installed the fronts already, but not the back for some reason, probably because it would have crumbled... I matched these with KYB gas adjust struts, new rubber bushings in the control arms and subframe, poly subframe mount inserts from IE, IE poly diff bushings, and an IE rear sway bar. Brakes were left stock but new besides some stainless lines from BavAuto (RIP). I also bent and flared cunifer hard lines. I'm on the fence if the time effort is worth buying a new set. I have two original lines left in the car as of writing this. I'm pretty sick of flaring lines... I also took the opportunity to replace the diff fluid with red line and rebuild both axles with fresh boots and grease. IMG_0851.MOV
  18. The only sheet metal I purchased was rear subframe mounts from WN, everything else was self fabricated and welded out of sheet metal. Based on the quality of previous repair work and the overall condition of the car, I wasn't shooting for concourse grade work here. My goals were to make it safe, water tight, and to extend it's life by cutting out and patching any rust I could. The most involved (scary) parts of the project were the subframe reinforcement and the gas tank / trunk / rear fender area that were totally gone. Most surfaces that were not cut out were treated with coroseal rust converting primer. Everything was coated with an enamel, seem sealed, paintable rubberized undercoating, then sprayed again with gloss enamel top coat. IMG_0735.MOV
  19. zadaha

    How she sat

    I purchased the car a little over a year ago. I knew going into ownership that I was getting my self into a project. Not quite the scale it has turned into, but i'm still enjoying the process. A pre-purchase inspection showed lots of rust on the underside, mostly focused in the rear. In particular the subframe mounts, wheel wheels, spare tire holder, rear control arms, and shock towers were all swiss cheese. Basically the usual suspects... The PO had some less than stellar work done on the front to stabilize the floor and frame rails, so I looked at this car a good opportunity to learn with. The body was not in terrible shape, the worst areas were, and still are, the fenders, hood, and lower rear window frame. My game plan was to tackle the rear portion of the car with the goal of making it water tight. The farther I got in exploring the rust the more I realized this car was in need of serious surgery. I made decision to cut out and replace the rear subframe mounts in order to give the car another chance at life and a solid foundation to build the project on. Once this decision was made it lead to refurbishing and replacing nearly everything in the rear end. Below Are some photos of the car before any work got started.
  20. I dropped by the paint shop today to drop off the hood latch parts so that the body guy could set and align the hood. Here are some pics showing progress. Nose is getting some touch up and the hood is getting aligned. The original fenders have been patched and reattached. Begone rust, after market sheet metal shenanigans and DOT silliness! Doors and sides have been patched as well. No more side markers - or gas cap. The rear panel has been cleaned up and the lower valance replaced. Note the dead center exhaust. Last, they've started to address the trunk area. That's it for now. Another post soon to highlight some of the parts I recently picked up. Cheers, James PS. Shameless plug: I've posted several things for sale. BUY SOMETHING! I need to pay for this stuff 😉.
  21. those seats are so good! Great job!
  22. JerryB2002

    The one constant

    My Wife and I bought a new house. We close on it tomorrow and start moving on Wednesday. Before we bought I had a scare and I almost made a bad decision. That was to part out my project and let Betty go. A lot of people on this site were very nice and offered good prices for the parts that I had posted for sale. And they were even nicer when I came to my senses and retracted my ad. Everyone was very understanding. Jo and I would figure out how to make this work. The house we're buying only has a two car garage. We need three. So not only will I be moving into the new place, but will begin planning for a new detached workshop/garage! So, that bridge has been crossed and the project back on track. The sale of our current house and purchase of our new house proceeded. Deal's done and all that's left to do is pack up and move. Here's the thing. We've lived in this house for 21 years. Longest I've ever stayed put. The problem with staying in one place that long is you accumulate a lot of crap. And I mean a metric ton of junk. Literally. The Swiss I think have a word, Döstädning. I'm not sure I'm ready to embrace this fully, but damn, I have a lot of junk. The last several days have been spent purging and cleaning and purging and stuffing things into boxes. Everything for the car has been packed away except the seats, wheels, dash and the engine. The chassis has been hauled off to the painters. It'll be there for a couple months. The rest of her parts have been put into quite a few boxes. It's funny how a small car, when exploded like it is, takes up so much room! Today, I tackled how to get the engine off the stand and into a crate for transport to the new house. I've never build an engine crate before so I did some research. Which means YouTube. I figured that I'd use the old scrap wood I had in the shop and have at it. Here's what I came up with. It's pretty secure in there. Resting on the oil pan in a cradle. Then there are braces on the sides of the block to keep it from rocking. Also there are side supports to keep it from sliding back and forth. What's not shown are wheels I installed to make it easier to move around on the floor. It should do for the short move. At least I hope it will do!
  23. 50th Anniversary BMW CCA Oktoberfest was pretty awesome. With a few exceptions. 2 iconic BMWs were in the lobby of the hotel. Yale Rachlin's 1974 2002Tii & Parker Spooner's 1970 2800 CS. At dinner, I was notified by Paul Cain "There were not enough cars in Classic Super Clean" so I was bumped down to "Classic Clean". It rained Wednesday on the Concours. I discovered too late there were 6 cars in Classic Super Clean, after Vern had been judged! Needless to say I felt a bit cheated by this fiasco! Learned via text message later Wednesday evening Vern place 3rd, in Classic Clean, judges only did interiors because it was raining. After the Concours was over, I joined the BMW Classic CCA for a tour to Highlands North Carolina. The 507 had a fuel delivery issue and after some fussing was flatbedded back to The BMW CCA Foundation. The tour of the mountains was a two day affair. Aside from awesome roads we visited "The Wheels Through Time" Museum. All American bikes from Pebble Beach winners to one of Evel Kneivel's Harleys and everything in between. Dale Wexler wasn't there though his son Matt was, he spent considerable time with us and the Veritas. Aside from the car's fugliness, it has a BMW 328 motor. It was pretty cold & frosty in Highlands, in fact colder than my home Maine! Friday I headed back to the BMW Performance Center for a Charity Lap Ride in BMW NA's 25 CSL, I was 7th in line. As I was strapped in, I told Alex Schmuck this was a dream come true. He didn't disappoint. We were off with a quickness as Alex shifted & powered though the turns just shy of losing grip, I was having a blast! Quarter way into the 2nd lap as we exited turn on the CSL just quit running! We coasted to a stop, Alex tried to restart, as it was cranking over the battery died. Alex apologized profusely because I didn't get my full two laps. Though I was bummed, the time in the car was fantastic. We spent at least 30 minutes waiting for the tow vehicle. At 2pm Friday I said my goodbyes and headed North to Boston for a Retirement Party Saturday at 5 pm for a very good friend. Vern & I covered 1,052 miles and made it to the restaurant at exactly 5 pm! It was worth the trip to surprise him. "You're here! I thought you were in South Carolina!" I replied "I was. Wouldn't miss this this for anything!" Other highlights: Ed Zinzmier's 2000CS, simply stunning in person! Bo Black winning 1st in Classic Super Clean! The Coffee Soufflé at the Edwards Inn & Spa! Route 28 into & out of Highlands NC. Spending time with my BMW family, "If it weren't for the BMW CCA, I'd have no friends." - Andrew
  24. ■ Hello Is restoration progressing smoothly? I also repaired the grill in the past. The used grill I got was broken. I tried brazing but failed. Finally, the bent metal (wiper rubber core) was epoxy bonded. I am enjoying the restoration slowly.
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