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  3. jp5Touring

    Subframe in

    Just a great build. Love the attention to detail.
  4. Thanks for the great write up. While doing mine, one side the castle nut and the hub all came off super easy. Castle nut was barely hand tight. After doing some research, turns out the stub axels can stretch and if your castle nut comes off really easily, it means the stub axel is stretched and time to replace the entire stub axel. Oh and by the way my Ryobi impact had enough grunt to undo the castle nut on the other side. Took about a minute but it did undo the castle nut. Saves you having to lift and lower the car multiple times.
  5. Sick ride! Not sure if mine will ever run--I do know though that it wont probably ever look that clean! Enjoy.
  6. negative offset will take the wheel out the fender, positive will make the wheel go to de inside, so ET25 and -25 are moving the wheel the opposite way
  7. It's been a while since I've posted but I'm back and working on the old girl. Finished the headliner, horn, passenger window, and quarter window installation. Took some pictures of what's under the car. Sorry to everyone asking for updates. This project had taken a backseat and I've recently picked it back up. Bonus pic of my dd and the bimmer in the background.
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  9. Thanks for this article @mlytle! I'm embarking on a re-seal of the diff (rear and both outputs) and was looking for this exact procedure as I was trying to figure out how best to tackle it. Seems like this relatively simple drop is the way to go.
  10. Thank much. I am deciding between the MS3 Gold from EFI source, Holley HP and Haltech. They are $950, $1950 and $3K +. To be fair the Holley has a lot of the connectors that I need, as well as a bar sensor and IAT. I can keep my tune and my screen if I go Holley, which is my preference. Just trying to get a handle on the budget. I like the idea of the MS3 but the connector and wire quality on the DiY stuff is largely questionable. The MS3 gold uses a Deutch (sp?) type connector, so it appears to be more robust, and is frankly easier to use. The Holley is weatherproof as well as the Haltech. The Holley is more turnkey, the Haltech is more ala carte. To get the same functionality, you have to buy a lot more modules for the Haltech. The shaft is sloppy in the Turbo, so off to Turbonetics to have it fixed, some people believe that they are sloppy only to have oil dampen it only time will tell. The problem is that the compressor wheels are NLA, so once it touches the side, it is junk. We will see how far out of spec it is. Hopefully it is salvageable, I kinda like the old school stuff once it is fixed it should last.
  11. Ever reach a point in your build where you start to wonder if it's ever going back together? This was that point for me. Totally necessary step, but kind of daunting all the same. Last weekend we pulled out the M20. We tried once before out the top of the car, and that proved to be literally impossible. The M20+G260 combo is simply too long to come out the top of the car. So we dropped it out the bottom with the subframe. Per usual, I just didn't take many photos. I was too busy scrambling around the car to document the sketchiness. But I can tell you, we may have gotten a little dangerous with how we did this. Step one, unbolt the subframe while connected to engine hoist. Step two, lower the engine and front subframe onto dolly and remove chain. Step three, attach chain to new front crash bar. Step four, lift the whole body up and slide engine out. The whole process took maybe an hour, and lifting the body by the new crash bar was a little nerve wracking. But, it worked flawlessly. Next time I do this, I'd really prefer to have a lift though. Now my fabricator can finish up some small details in the bay, and clean up a few cuts. We're also potentially looking at redoing the trans tunnel, depending on what we find as we grind away at the unsealed metal. Hopefully nothing cancerous underneath. I'll probably take the opportunity to clean up a few things on this M20 while it's out. I'd like to get the pulleys powdercoated, and probably replace a few seals/belts that are easy to get to while it's out. I also want to figure out a way to make the alternator nicer to look at. I'm debating buying another one, removing the casing and having that powdercoated black. It doesn't need to be polished perfection, but the dull stock one will really ruin an otherwise nice bay. Despite all the worry about actually ever finishing, it feels so good to work on this car. If you've seen my other build thread, I've only been wrenching on a Miata lately, and I don't particularly enjoy that. The 2002 is so simple, it makes the whole process very enjoyable. With any luck, we're in the final stretch with the fabricator and I can bring it home to finish the fun stuff.
  12. We decided to go with the tobacco and black.
  13. We decided to go with the BMW Glacier Silver Metallic (A83 color code). Personally, we found it to be the closest to polaris.
  14. My apologies for the long silence. My dad and I have been busy for the past 3 years. Since our last blog entry, a lot has happened to the car.
  15. Nothing happening but waiting, either for orders to come or chrome / polishing work to be completed. Since I'm waiting on the euro bumper to line up the new mounting holes, I haven't been motivated to progress. Tonight I broke down and assembled the rear subframe. I'm using urethane bushings, adjustable ST swaybar and stock subframe mounts. All hardware is new along with the stub axles bearings. I will be putting together the 250 mm brakes this coming week.
  16. Just a little more...
  17. Roundeie


    Completed some pre-start items yesterday - fueled the tank / checked fuel pump operation by running a pint out of tank then connected fuel line to carbs - connected starter then turned over motor till i saw oil from the spray bar and oil light out - checked for spark with a plug attached to #1 wire then installed all the plugs (already gapped) Got up and waited for another set of hands to show up then got to it. Ran for 15 minutes after fiddling with idle screws. Gonna need some tuning obviously and little things corrected but she’s alive now after 4 years 8 months. 5018805F-A4AC-4CBE-912A-6953BD7933E1.MOV AF3B7A14-EC84-4AB1-A740-EC4DDB68E355.MOV
  18. looks like an amazing project! love the work done so far ... and yes ... the inspiration is 100% spot on. we are also deep into the conversion process on two '02s in the shop ... a slightly different spec ... but the same challenges for sure shoot me a PM if you want to chat more. can't wait for more content! cheers geoff
  19. I will be posting more engine pics during Monterey car week! 😊
  20. One more thing. I had the dashboard green telltale light flashes once only condition. After going through every bulb and wire, cleaning the flasher relay, and cleaning the fuses, I put in a spare hazard switch I had on hand. That corrected the one-blink problem. All lights work like new. This might be written up elsewhere, but it's worth mentioning here.
  21. Onto more pretty-fication. New independent ground for the turn signals New dual filament bulb holders retrofitted into US bases And because I'm dumb I put new Hella's on (instead of Cibie's or something nicer). They're okay, I don't do much night driving with this car. Signals were sporadic at best and I needed to change the flasher relay anyways for the LED's Dash indicator still doesn't work no matter what I do, but at least I have working signals all around. Don't mind this, just seating deleting. The car is too small and too underpowered to have more than two people in it and it looks so much more tidy. Might as well build my own center console too.
  22. The stock coolant inlet has a weird angle, so I found a custom fabricated part from JSP that turns the neck straight towards the radiator instead. New thermostat from Toyota, they have a small bleed hole in it unlike another manufacturer we all know. Always hated that the e36 didn't have this, it was always difficult to bleed.
  23. That's the 1st time I ever saw someone setting the "Bump Steer" on an "02". Nice, I ran circle track on asphalt and dirt for twenty, beautiful work.
  24. Absolutely, and it was a point of consideration for me. Ultimately this won out, as I figure it was better than the previous setup and still let me reasonably service this car in the future. My plan, at least for now, is to keep this car for a very long time. So I’m trying to make things easier on future me haha. I think in the future, if I were to want to track this car or something, I would revisit this and weld it in. But for now, I’m good with the trade off.
  25. What a spectacular weekend! Had what many considered the best spot. In the shade literally all day, nestled among the trees, after a few hours I tired of cleaning up the tree debris, I closed Vern up. The Misselwood Concours is a top-tier show. The venue is enchanting and beautiful. The perfect setting for a Concours of this caliber. I've been to Amelia Island, Pebble Beach, Hilton Head, Greenwich and Misselwood is my new favorite. Vern and I were the last car to leave the Misselwood Concours. Unfortunately I ever saw or spoke to any judges about Vern. Dozens of people shared stories and fond memories of their past BMW 2002s & Bavarias. Wonderful to see Chris & Ashley Langsten, Scott Sislane, Stan Chamallas, Chris Auty and met Neil Hefferan. After the Concours I drove to Chris Auty's house and went out for Mexican in Newmarket, NH. Vern and I arrived home at 9:30 pm.
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