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Initial Inspection / First Driving Attempt (May 2016)

xr4tic

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Now that the car is running, it's time to check it out, see what I've got.

 

On initial inspection, I spot the following things:

Weber 38 carb

Eibach springs in the rear (stock in front?  can't tell)

KYB rear shocks (can't tell in front)

Aftermarket front and rear swaybars (ST Suspension)

Mechanical advance distributor (no vacuum)

Unknown brand header

Full Ansa exhaust (that leaks)

Trim rings on the gauges, were these stock?

3- gauge pod on the dash with VDO gauges

 

I removed the carpeting so I could wash it, as well as look at the sheetmetal:

Trunk is completely gone, which I knew from the ebay add

Front floorpans have holes, driver side was "fixed" at a previous point

Driver side frame extension is rotted, not attached to floorpan, probably because of previous repair

Rockers/lower rear fenders have bulging/rusty areas, probably full of bondo

Looks structurally sound otherwise

Taillights/Blinkers/Brake Lights don't work

The gas pedal isn't attached

 

Floorpan shots (look at all that money!)

20160506_161338.jpg

20160529_140400.jpg

20160529_140332.jpg

 

And some rust under the heater box, probably a leak:

20160529_140447.jpg

 

I got it running fairly decent, so I go to take it on it's maiden voyage.

I start the car, push the clutch in, can't get it into gear.  Broken shifter doesn't help, but that's not the full problem.

Shut off the car, put it into gear, push in clutch, start it, and the car starts moving (clutch is in)

 

OK, maybe the clutch is a bit rusty from sitting so long, so I figured I would pressure bleed the clutch cylinders.

I hook up my power bleeder, and then fluid starts seeping out of the rubber grommets, but I was still able to bleed the clutch cylinder.

It still did it, but after a couple of start/stops, it got better.  It's still hard to get into gear sometimes, but I think that will clear up with use.

 

So now that it moves, will it stop?

 

Short answer:  No.

 

The idle raises when you push on the brake, indicating a leak and no power assist.  I have to stand on the brakes HARD to get it to stop, and it's very slow to do so.

Also, the shifter is so bad, I can't get it into second or fourth while moving, the shifter hits the driveshaft.

 

Time to order some parts.  Most of these I buy through getbmwparts.com, the reservoir from ebay and shift plate mounts from FCP.  Some of the more expensive parts I don't buy.

 

Here's the list:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2215-USA-11-1975-114-BMW-2002&diagId=23_0776
01    Circlip            3    07119932863
02    Shim            2    25111220199
03    Gearshift rod joint    1    25117503525
04    Dowel pin        1    23411466134
05    TENSION BUSH        1    25111203682
06    Plastic washer        1    25111434194
07    STRAIGHT SELECTOR ROD    1    25111204357
09    Lock Ring        1    23411466112
12    Cap                    1    25111205441
13    Circlip            1    07119932881
14    Rubber Ring        1    23411666133
15    Washer            1    34301163613
16    Spring washer        1    23411666122
17    Spacer sleeve        1    23411200844
18    Compression spring    1    23411200845
19    BALL CUP UPPER        2    23411466110


http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2215-USA-11-1975-114-BMW-2002&diagId=23_0774
10     Fillister-head screw    2    07119919669
11     Supporting bracket    2    25111208580
12    SOUND ABSORBER        1    23411200937
14    Rubber boot        1    25111100582
19    ROD            1    25111201238


Brake/Clutch Reservoir
master cylinder grommet        2    34311103205
grommet washer            2    34314650172
90 bend                2    34321102282
Hose                1    21521163714
reservoir            1    34321112399

 

I also place an order for Left/Right front floorpans from W&N, and purchase a welder (finally an excuse to buy one, now I need to learn how to weld)

 

Shifter/Brake Parts $179.00
Floorpans $150.00
Total $329.00
Running Total $7,141.00


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