• entries
    26
  • comments
    43
  • views
    3,426

Made a wooden rotisserie today!

Z3M

2,027 views

Today, my father and I built our wooden (a.k.a. redneck) car rotisserie using a few videos from YouTube and a couple of articles as a reference point. About $65 worth of lumber using three 2x6, a 2x4, and  in a number of bolts (see receipt image)  we were able to create a stable and safe rotisserie.  It was relatively easy to make and I'll be going back to get a few extra bolts for added security so when you look at the receipt below you want to add another 4 or 5 bolts.  Also, I'm sure there's a more scientific way to make our arch, but using a broken Hulu hoop work just fine.

 

Once installed on the car, I could easily push it forward and bring it back to a resting position without feeling like I was going to get crushed or push it through the wall.  It was extremely stable to the point that you could've stood on it without fear of a tipping over.   For just an added level of safety I did put jackstands underneath the front and rear of the vehicle. 

 

 It was surprisingly easy to make and obviously is very beneficial to getting out the underside of the car.   I've got a video too, but am having difficulty attaching it......I will keep trying.

 

image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg



8 Comments


Recommended Comments

well done

 

I love it!

 

I did one of these a few months back with some timber I had hanging around after building my deck. I think I spent $25 on bolts and a few lengths of pine.

 

It sure made cleaning 40+ years of gunk from under the car, as well as repairing the sills a hell of a lot easier. I was actually thinking that I will need to get the underneath sandblasted, however once the caked on oil, road grime and wax proofing all came off there is no rust at all (apart from one of the spare wheel well drain holes) and the original factory grey primer is all intact. Happy Days for me!!!!

 

also saw the Video - love the look on the face on that initial roll just when it is on the other edge of the roll radius and is about to settle at +/-90 degrees - I think I had the same expression!!!!

 

keep it up!

2002 tilt e.JPG

2002 tilt ee.JPG

rear sill POR.jpg

rear sill on.jpg

Share this comment


Link to comment

That's awesome.   What did you use to strip the underside?  Same deal with mine -- oil and grime caked on.  Thanks!

Share this comment


Link to comment

I started with water pressure washer and that did nothing so moved onto thinners and Xylene (along with appropriate PPE and plenty of rags). 

 

Good luck

Share this comment


Link to comment

Im going to be doing the same thing to my 74. Where do I mount the jig to the front and rear of the body of the car exactly? Drill holes to weld them up later? through the old bumper holes?

Edited by trentbmwe10

Share this comment


Link to comment

At the rear I fixed mine to the rear bumper mounting points in the body. You may want to make a plate to fit on the inside of the mounting holes to strengthen or reinforce the clamping points and ensure that you don't rip out or tear the current bolt holes, especially if there is rust in that rear beaver panel area! Thankfully mine is intact with no rust.

 

On the front I mounted it to the front chassis rail at the subframe/engine cross member mounting points. Just 4 'L' brackets mount from the wooden cross bean to the chassis rail. 

 

(Timber cross beams are 140mm x 35mm hardwood)

Share this comment


Link to comment

Hey Z3M, how did you attach the jig to the front of the car whilst keeping the nose intact? 

Share this comment


Link to comment

Very cool and I like the flip flops... I may try this in the future.

 

Share this comment


Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now