Been dreading this, but finally got around to it this weekend, which motivated me to start a blog and post the prior pictures.

I got TIG welder, but still haven't practiced with it. So, when it came to filling the holes left by removing the diving boards, I was hoping for another route, since my impressing is filling holes with a TIG is not entry level.

I found this great video on how to fill holes with solder and was hopeful. I had also found a similar one from MuggyWeld, but using a torch, which didn't seem ideal near the gas tank. So, I did a mash up with a Weller soldering iron and MuggyWeld rod.

It was a bit of a learning process and the holes are not filled perfectly, but I'm happy with the results.

If you're considering this, here are a few tips:

• Use a larger bit to countersink the hole (to create a bevel for the solder to not push all the way thru)
• Wipe down the surface - inside and outside with acetone or a degreaser
• Tape pennies or a piece of copper behind the hole (ideally there will be a little gap between the penny and the inside sheet metal so that some of the solder goes outside the hole. Between the bevel on the outside and the overflow on the inside, the solder is less likely to pop out)
  • I also used welding magnest to hold the pennies in place
• Use a wide tip on the soldering iron
• Flux the hole (or maybe use resin core solder)
  • I didn't use flux with the muggy weld solder and for about 1/2 the holes I was able to pop the solder out with a little pressure. I should have known better. With flux, the solder really bonded with the sheet metal
• Tin the area, let cool a little
• Melt the solder on full and then use lower setting - or even release the trigger) to smooth the solder

Not perfect, but good enough