So while I was waiting for IE's machine shop to finish weight reducing my S14 flywheel, I decided to button up the oil pan.  As you may remember, I thought the oil pump chain was a little stretched, so I bought 3 of the .25mm shims from IE and ended up only using 1 of them along with the two, .1 mm shims already installed.  The new shim did the trick and I was ready to install the baffled oil pan and crank scrapper.

I had already gotten my brother to weld in the IE Baffle and after shimming the oil pump I did a quick test fit.  WHAT THE F*$%?  The front of the pan was hitting the oil pump and preventing it seating correctly.  Apparently, if you weld it in the pan using the bends as shipped from IE, it doesn't sit low enough to clear the oil pump.  I ended up cutting/chiseling the spot welds, bending it so the baffle edge at the front of the pan was touching the bottom of the oil pan and had my brother spot weld it there.  Of course the new spot welds wrecked my paint job and the pan required some deep cleaning to remove every speck of metal, but I finally did get it sorted and ready of installation.

So the recommended installation of the crank scrapper was slather it with RTV and sandwich it between two gaskets before bolting on the oil pan.  But after doing a little on-line research, I found a video of the installation of a crank scrapper on a small block Chevy and decided to try it on the S14.  Instead of two gaskets, they only used one, but basically glued the crank scrapper to the block with RTV Gasket Maker and then using the oil pan bolts to secure it to the block as it setup and dried.  The next day glued the oil pan gasket with RTV, waited 30 minutes for it to set and did a light coat of RTV on the gasket surface and bolted it to the block/crank scrapper and torqued the bolts to spec.

Now if only the flywheel would come back from the machine shop, I could get that transmission and motor in the subframe and eventually back in the car.

Mark92131