Between Kid's Soccer games and an Epidural in my spine I made some progress the last two weeks. My back feels so much better, I tackled the under-dash wiring and started prepping the S14 for installation.
I started out by flipping the spark plug wiring harness so the terminals face the EDIS coil on the firewall instead of the the OEM distributor. Next I pulled the distributor cap to verify I was still at TDC with spark plug #1 and my 36-1 crank wheel VR pickup was indeed 9 teeth if front of the missing tooth, SANITY CHECK. Next, I test fit the motor mount brackets on the S14 block, Mission Control we have a problem. The Oil Separator and the driver's side motor mount are trying to share the same space. I could rig something with a spacer and mount the oil separator vertically instead of horizontally, but plumbing it might be challenging. I never liked my solution for running the oil discharge back to the pan, so I may ditch the oil separator and run a catch can instead. I just need to source one with the appropriate fittings.
Now, this leaves me with the problem of hole in my oil pan. Not to worry. I needed to pull the pan anyway because I forgot to secure the oil pump pickup with the brace that fits on the middle crankshaft cap. I ordered all the oil pump brace pieces from IE and decided it is probably a good idea to weld in a oil pan baffle and add a windage tray to the order. I'll work on putting those pieces in place next week.
I pulled off the airbox to the ITBs to get a better look at what mods would be needed to run it with a stock brake booster and how to cap it for the missing Oil Separator and noticed some things that were hidden from view that I didn't realize were there or where they are suppose to connect to. One was a metal tube/line at the driver's side back of the head that runs under the fuel rail and goes into the head at the front of the motor (What does this connect to?). The other was a rubber hose that connects into the hose connection out of the Idle Control Valve (ICV) that I think may be emissions related. I think I may be OK just capping this one. Speaking of the ICV, I noticed that the Son of Cobra car switched from that beautiful carbon fiber airbox to individual carbon fiber intake velocity stacks (air horns). I was thinking that maybe an option for me instead of hacking up my OEM air box to clear the brake booster. I could still run the ICV, but instead of plumbing it to the air box, I could just add a valve cover breather filter (or does this connection require some vacuum?). The only thing I also need to solve it the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor. If I go with individual air horns, I could always drill a hole in one and use a rubber grommet to mount the IAT sensor. otherwise if I stick with the OEM air box, it will probably be mounted in the elbow for the air filter.
I also added the 10AN fittings to the oil filter housing for the oil cooler and bought an adapter to convert the oil pressure sensor to 1/8" NPT for the oil pressure gauge sender. Unfortunately when I test fit the sender, it is going to interfere with the oil cooler fitting, so there's that issue to deal with. I may end up using a 1/8" NPT male to 1/8" NPT Female 45 degree adapter to move the sender to the right and up.
Some of you may have seen my request for an early gas tank in the Parts Wanted section. My original tank, although pristine on the outside was plagued with rust and pin holes in the inside. I ended up ordering a new MVP tank from IE. Of course it arrived with a ding in the lip from shipping. I e-mailed Kevin at IE, crickets! No refund on the over-charged shipping. It looks like tank lip repair and some painting are in my future.
Getting closer to finishing the wiring from inside the car to the engine bay. The only loose wiring left dangling belongs in the center console. I made all of the pin connections for the Deutsch connector and staked them into their proper holes. I added a few extra wires to run the oil pressure and water temperature gauges. I was going to install this connector through the firewall, but found out the retaining nut doesn't screw down completely and won't hold the connector tight in the firewall. Apparently there are gaskets and a washer required to tighten this retaining nut properly.
While I was on my back under the dash tucking wires, I decided to install the glove box. I used the best one I had, needed to move the Boot Loader switch to get it installed, made a few adjustments and turned out great. I also decided to install my instrument cluster. While attempting this I managed to pop off the retaining ring that hold the glass for the tach. Out it came and I decided to fresh it up some more before reinstalling. I had a re-chromed ring for the Speedometer that was left over from my Cab cluster so I used that. I repainted the outside rings and repainted the cluster housing, re-assembled everything and went to install it. It seemed to fit good, but when it went to attach the speedo cable I noticed something strange. The studs on the speedometer were not long enough to attach the 2 round retaining nuts. I made sure the cluster was seated properly, but the studs aren't even close to going through the slotted holes. So I am not sure if this is an old cluster in one piece dash issue or something else I did wrong.
Thanks for viewing.