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Poor planning



So I am now beginning to think that I may have done too many things at once. 


Here's what I did, all at once:

Remove AC, Remove EGR, reject carb to cdiesel prescription, refresh cooling system, rebuild heater box


Here's what I should have done, one at a time, not necessarily in this order

1) check timing

2) adjust/reject carb

3) remove EGR

4) Repeat steps 1+2

5) Remove AC and refresh cooling system


Not only would this have kept the car running and driving for more of the time, but now I'm am in a bit of a predicament.


First off the car starts and runs, but it doesn't idle. No, it does idle, but somewhere in the ballpark of 4-500 rpm (I don't have a tach...). The driver engine mount is toast so it shakes quite a bit at such low rpm so I can't really get a screwdriver in there to adjust mixture or speed while it's running. 


I have a fresh cooling system that I need to bleed, so I need the car to warm up. But it won't idle so I need to keep it revved to keep it running to warm it up. 


The exhaust is quite potent so I think my carb tuning and or my timing is off.  Tried to check my timing today, but I don't have a tach to know what rpm I (my wife) am holding. 


These are all real problems that I am having that I think would not have piled on like this if I had taken a more piece wise approach.


That being said, anyone have any helpful suggestions for a very low idle and very potent exhaust (likely with multiple leaks)?


My plan right now is to pull the car out and warm it up and do the coolant to cross that one off the list. Then I will get a tach and set the timing. Then I will tackle the carb. 


Any tips on carb tuning outside of lean idle?


Thanks for reading,





Recommended Comments

Hi Chris,

I'm sure you'll get it figured out. The jets I had in it were different from CDI's suggestion based on me trying to tackle the same or a similar problem to what you're having. I may have painted myself into a corner, because I think the engine developed more leaks, etc.



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