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Removing the Unwanted - Part 1


nc325ic

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I have broken up my project into a few stages. Stage 1 of the project is just to kind of get it mechanically sound again. Something I can drive with an acceptable level of confidence. Luckily the previous owner supplied me with a nice cache of new parts to get started with. 

 

I begin in the engine bay. My goals for the engine bay are pretty simple for now. The engine starts and runs pretty well. It burns oil, that much is for sure, but other than that it seems to be in decent shape. Electronic Ignition is already in place, as is a Weber 32/36 DGAV. It may run a bit rich so I will likely review the current jets and do some idle fiddling. That being said, the goal for the engine bay in stage 1 is to:

 

  1. Remove EGR (components will be available for sale/free)
  2. Remove BEHR Aircon (components will be available for sale)
  3. Flush the cooling system
  4. Install the new coolant hoses, waterpump, thermostat from the parts cache
  5. Install new belt
  6. Install catch can to help reduce oil burn (minimal effect I know)
  7. Remove Charcoal Canister (for sale/free)
  8. Valve adjustment
  9. Carb Review
  10. Throttle linkage issues/questions

 

I may have missed some stuff that I am doing but in general the goal is to open up the engine bay and remove as much unnecessary, inoperable, or unwanted equipment/hoses/wires as possible. Leaving only what is necessary.

 

OK so I am attaching a few pictures of my progress. I have been putting maybe an hour or so into working on the car after work. No shop manual so I have been mixing research online with good old fashioned recon on how things come apart. So far I think the most challenging thing was figuring out how to take the grill off.

 

At this point the EGR system is about 90 percent undone and about 60 percent removed. The tube is stuck in the exhaust. I think I may have to cut it and get a socket on the fitting. I was hoping not to destroy anything so I could sell/give away as many parts as possible to those who might need them for restorations, but I just cant get it to budge.

 

I started removing AC after I tired of trying to remove the EGR tube. Got all the wiring and hoses undone in the engine bay. My wife has been great and helping me out with a lot of this stuff, it isn't the air-cooled Porsche that she would rather be working on, but she has agreed to help. She is now working on getting the AC out of the interior, though the aftermarket radio is proving a nuisance. Back in the engine bay I struggled with the condenser until I found out how to remove the grills. Then I realized it would not fit out past the water pump. So I undid 4 of the bolts for the pump only to find that the AC compressor bracket is on the outside of the water pump and uses two of it's bolts! What kind of sadistic german "engineer" (yeah I put it in quotes for this guy) would do this kind of thing... Monster. Anyway, that's where I am now. I will go out and remove the compressor on my day off and then get rolling on the rest.

 

Now a question to whomever reads this. There is a picture attached with the carb still mounted on the intake. In that picture you can see a red wire attached to a sensor/sender on the carb. That red wire travels along the firewall and onto a spade terminal on... the ignition coil (blue). Can anyone tell me why or what this is about?

 

Thanks for reading,

Chris

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Edited by nc325ic

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Had to cut the tube... And still couldn't get the fitting out. I think I'm gonna end up with an ie shorty manifold unless I can find a used non-egr one. 

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Hi Chris,

That red wire coming from the carb is to supply +12V to the idle cut-off solenoid valve, which is an option on the Weber 32/36. This is fitted as standard equipment on the stock Solex  carbs.

This valve closes the idle jet, which stops the fuel flow when the ignition is switched off, to prevent run-on (dieseling). This electric shut-off is not really needed, especially if you have removed all the smog stuff and tuned the carb and set the timing properly (not to "smog specs").

Note: If you do keep this valve, be sure it receives +12V when the ignition is on.....otherwise the car will not start!

John

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