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Rear Subframe Mounts

nnywg

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This is a bit out of order in terms of what's been worked on but worth a post.  The second-worst rust on the car is the rear passenger side's subframe mount.  The upper plate is mostly still in tact, but the lower one doesn't exist at all.  And the sill is hot garbage.  Inner sill is flat 16ga but it gets a bit more complicated as you work your way outwards.  Car came with replacement outer sills suggesting it was bad for a long time.

 

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Digging through this site over the winter I found a couple threads on this subject.  I ordered a fairly large collection of parts from W&N and their replacement panels for these areas were part of that.  

Reference Thread 1: 

 

Reference Thread 2:

 

W&N Panels

 

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Measure twice and check the reference.  Turns out the W&N panels are about 12mm (1/2") shallower offset than the originals from what I can tell from the references and rusty part I have left.  

 

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In to CAD and off to the machine shop

 

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Back from the machine shop & fit-checking.  Here you can see that the offset of the lower panel is different from the original.  Have to move the step in the bolt capture to keep the subframe mounting surface in the correct place.  Someone cleverer than me could've put a shim here instead for more suspension geometry adjustability.

 

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Bonus photo for the next thing I'm working on.   Stay tuned...

 

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Oh man, thank you so much for cataloging your work on this. I am about to undertake the same subframe support repair and thought I was losing my mind trying to get my existing cylinder to fit with the W&N replacement parts. Do the tabs for the upper and lower W&N plate sit flush with your cylinder sandwiched between? I'm not sure if they are supposed to be bent to fit, or if I'm doing something wrong.

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8 hours ago, skylund said:

Do the tabs for the upper and lower W&N plate sit flush with your cylinder sandwiched between? I'm not sure if they are supposed to be bent to fit, or if I'm doing something wrong.

 

It's not perfect but pretty close.  You could definitely mig weld it though.  It's 16ga I think so a bit difficult to move with a small hammer.  If you put it on something solid in the orientation of A and tap on the top point it will open up a bit and fit better for welding.  Easier to do it that way that trying to hammer directly on that flange.

 

If I had to guess, I would say probably the lower "not quite 90deg" fold needs to be bent further from the manufacturer, but then all the measuring above would no longer work.

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3 hours ago, nnywg said:

If I had to guess, I would say probably the lower "not quite 90deg" fold needs to be bent further from the manufacturer, but then all the measuring above would no longer work.

Thanks for the quick reply. Yeah this is consistent with what I'm seeing. I think I'll also need to bend the rearmost tab (running laterally) toward the upper plate to make contact. Thanks again.

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