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Toca

Well,  I drove around some pawn shops looking for a reciprocating saw/sawsall and found a Milwaukee brand for $60.  Is it just me or whenever I go to look for tools, I always find another interesting tool I don’t have (not that I have a buttload).  I got the saw to cut up a 74 BMW o2A.  I’m in California and the level of rust in OUR vehicles is very minimal and I wanted to save as many important pieces/panels of the car for the 02 community.  I have very limited space so.... if anyone is interested in buying some parts and/or body panels..... well,  now’s the time to speak up.  (Scratches his head and say, “Is anyone even reading this?......) Today’s date is November 4th 2019.  I’ll hold on to these materials until it gets in my way then I’ll have to cut the car up for scrap metal.  I do know that the automatic o2’s have a wider driveshaft tunnel ( to conv. 5sp) so I think this shell is of value to someone.  And the automatics are if not a desired model,  those of you who have them are probably starving for Xtra parts.  I have the tranny cooling system with the special RADIATOR that has a small core on the bottom with the nipple connections for the oil cooler.   I have an automatic center console and peddle box. The drive shaft for auto’s is shorter I believe.  Correct me if I’m wrong. For everyone else I have whole doors, window regulators, hatches, latches and handles.  Left and right fenders,  I cut the roof off...... IT HAS A SUNROOF!!!  Now that.... ANYONE CAN BUY.  REMEMBER GUYS.... Gotta make 

room for my Build!!!  Her name is Mai (pron. MY).  I’ll start posting pics of the build as soon as I figure out how to drop the photos in.

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Hi!! I’m TocaChakra and happy to be here....

Toca

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Hi,  My name is Toca.  Before I begin this blog,  I was testing the ease of use on this site.  First thing I notice is the program/site changes the position of the photo selected.... I haven’t entered the photo yet in “Submit Entry” but when I tried downloading the profile photo it juxtapposed my photo.... A little frustrating but I’ll figure it out.  If anyone can -PM- me some helpful tips;  that would be appreciated...  This way,  I can meet some of the more active members in this community.  Here’s to success!

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Thanks Ray!  I’ve been scouring the FAQ to find a much more detail, w/photo’s and step by step on how to clear all emissions things.  I have left the emissions in a state of flux till I figure out the resistor thing and I do remember reading that If you had a blue coil,  the resistor wire is included in the set up but there’s not a complete explaination of how to  RE_WIRE the resistor wire,  keep it in-line?  Tie with other cables?  Attach to the fuse box in space #12 ( I believe )?  As I said (and I read a lot),  I haven’t come across that DETAILED write-up.... can you give me a hand?  BTW- My coil is black.  And that’s strange that I found the resistor wire crimped together with a black and red-stripe wire leading to the coil.  If I understand correctly,  the resitor wire is an in-line wire between the batt. And the coil so the coil will not get a full 12v’s but 9v’s,  is that right?  This car was running just fine with the set up of Blk coil & resistor wire-?  Go figure.....

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See if this helps ;-)

 

 

For emissions, I  think I'd start by removing everything related. I don't recall what year your car is, but those which came with electrical emissions controls/solenoids had dedicated harnesses for such.

 

All assuming you don't need to  pass Cali emissions testing!

 

Cheers,

 

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As a 74’ it bypasses inspection.  I have removed the tan color insulated emissions wire harness and have it spread over the top of the engine.  The clear insulated resistor wire is in the same tan harness. I also have the ceramic external resistor right next to the coil.  The tan harness went directly to the coil.  My problem is “What wires do I keep and how/where do i connect/use whats left?

 

Thanks again for the instant reply... as of this typing I’ve only read the first article (one which I have read before recently). That article explained the myth and made me aware of the importance of having an OE black coil but really doesnt go into what or which wires to keep and how to re-direct the remaining left over cables.  See my problem?

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Ok,  between trying to get some paint goin’ but  a man’s gotta feed himself so I went shopping,  picked up some paint brushes for the POR and got right back to painting the fuel tank/gas tank. I went with a FAQ suggestion re: using SEM Chip gaurd.  Looks amazing but I’m on the second coat of Cip Guard because I noticed that, for calling it chip guard, I managed to ‘chip’ the tank while removing some tape.  It was small but....... really?  Chip guard that chips with a scraping of a finger nail while trying to remove the tape seems a littly suspicious.  I give it a couple days driying in the 80* weather here and I hope it solidifys the paint.  I’m really never gonna see it but YOU KNOW DAMN WELL THAT I’LL BE THINKIN’ ABOUT IT ...... we’ll see...

 

So here she is........ that’s her bottom half

5B329906-2238-47D9-B8FD-2725F2133C09.jpeg

 

She’s got enough bumps and dings to make here a SEASONED fuel tank...

Edited by Toca

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Ok,  between trying to get some paint goin’ but  a man’s gotta feed himself so I went shopping,  picked up some paint brushes for the POR and got right back to painting the fuel tank/gas tank. I went with a FAQ suggestion re: using SEM Chip gaurd.  Looks amazing but I’m on the second coat of POR because I noticed that, for calling it chip guard, I managed to ‘chip’ the tank while removing some tape.  It was small but....... really?  Chip guard that chips with a scraping of a finger nail while trying to remove the tape seems a littly suspicious.  I give it a couple days driying in the 80* weather here and I hope it solidifys the paint.  I’m really never gonna see it but YOU KNOW DAMN WELL THAT I’LL BE THINKIN’ ABOUT IT ...... we’ll see...

 

So here she is........ that’s her bottom half

5B329906-2238-47D9-B8FD-2725F2133C09.jpeg

 

HJere’s the other side POR”D...

 

She’s got enough bumps and dings to make here a SEASONED fuel tank...

B401A6E2-DF31-4170-A417-AC57A6ACA958.jpeg

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POR means Paint Over Rust. Sticking it over chip guard may yield... interesting results!

 

Good luck,

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On 1/31/2020 at 3:35 PM, ray_ said:

POR means Paint Over Rust. Sticking it over chip guard may yield... interesting results!

 

Good luck,

No Ray,   bottom is all chip guard,   Top 1/2 is POR I must have not communicated that in the post

 

 

Bottom

C4B3171B-A8D5-4984-BAE2-A2D8BD1D07E3.jpeg

 

TOP = POR

 

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I was intially leary of the chip guard because I was able to “CHIP” it with my fingernail will removing the masking tape.  This morning I looked at the tank ( it was drying in the trunk along with the fuel tank opening, which I POR’d and after just  14hrs of drying overnite I got this........... :

F3404D7E-D012-454B-A0D6-0849C250CE41.thumb.jpeg.28712d0c6ebce095498c3596608740d0.jpeg

 

Oh.... I see where you got that impression....... from this mis typed quote:  “ Looks amazing but I’m on the second coat of POR because I noticed that, for calling it chip guard, “.  I should have said “I’m on the second coat of Chip Guard”. I’ve since edited that statement.  Thanks for your careful attention, Ray.  You’re a good man.....

 

 

 

Edited by Toca

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Took out my light buckets.  The last 4 months I devoted to dismantling my 74A o2.  I would remove a part study everything I could about the part,  clean&restore.  Rinse&Repeat...... In anticipation of the build I cleaned & restored the license plate holder and the headlight buckets.  Not sure I want to keep the Brass ring brass..... we’ll see......

8595635E-8D72-4560-95BF-7A15561DCC13.jpeg

 

Headlights are Sylvania’s 

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I’m using  4m allen/aircraft bolts to secure the license plate.... I mean,  who carries an allen wrench to steal a license plate?  Having been a police officer I was called out to people who’s plates were stolen.  I would always recommend Allen bolts, and by that time, they knew why... go figure

F53E5A71-0B52-4D43-9E45-3F88B36B00F7.jpegYes, my lic. Lights [email protected]#$ 

I pick up a new set for $80........ Oh Boy!

 

 

Cleaned and restored this fuel spout.  AND for another $80 I can pick up a new one... which I will before I installl

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Noticed I’d posted to What did you do to your 2002 today but I hadn’t posted any entries in my BUILD so,  here goes as of Feb2nd (today’s the 10th)

 

    Spent a week working on the nose,  bonnet hinges and the deck of the nose which was previously coated with undercoat black. Then,  that under coat was painted Fjord Blue but the paint would not adhere to the undercoating.  Back then,  I didn’t know what I was doing;  I just wanted a neat and clean engine bay.  I did not prep the area well enough and rust devleloped under the under-coating.  So,  I wire-wheeled and sanded and repaired inconsistancies in the structural areas like the light bucket area which was having a tranferal effect on how the radiator was bolted at it’s face/nose.  Originally thought my radiator was not sitting proper because of a broken engine mount because there were swirl marks left by the fan blades.  Turns out I had to tweek the light bucket area to straighten out the rails where the radiator is bolted to.  Once that body/metal work was done to my satisfaction I went and primered the fender top-deck (L&R) and repaired the snorkel hole and reworked the small dents on the deck area just fore of the radiator till it was just metal.  I’td rained alot so my time workin on the area was limited by the weather.... let’s face it,  I live in always sunny San Diego and I was NOT going to be doing work outside in the cold or wet.  F*&$# THAT!  Instead,  I got my housework done and I washed a load of working clothes laundry and treated myself to lesson’s on how to play with my o2.  

 

7E23B3F3-E478-4556-9F15-2ED35D97ED81.thumb.jpeg.631a91ea3befbdf76fa87da0b746e1af.jpegThe snorkel is mangled at the bottom.  Repaired

 

 

 The undercoating did coat but not protect from rust.  This is a shot of before I sanded and brought this area to just metal. The dark Brown spots are rusted areas UNDER the black undercoating.  Sanded and treated the rust with Rust Mort and the process to me about a week to finish.  Now,  I’ll wait for the rain to stop and primer the nose area.

 

AF217C19-2E0F-4A6E-875B-1B56147DBB8A.jpeg

BB85D29A-9DEE-40B1-99A9-E7D33D47F9B6.jpegI hope my light bucket brackets look plumb & lined.

 

It rained and rained that oxidation occured.  That’s the ‘gold’/ ‘brass’ tone on the nose deck.  They say “shit happens”?  So does rust.....

 

 

A584326D-B46C-4174-A69A-ECFFB1D619FD.jpeg

100D7EED-A774-41F8-8D5C-8E6B51B41507.jpegI’m pretty sure this is Plumb & lined......& flat.

 I’ll have the deck sprayed Fjord and under the deck & light buckets flat black

 

 

 

E73D410A-6183-4BD4-8F8B-BA824B8FD2FA.jpegRadiator sits proper ....... rail/wall in front straight

Edited by Toca

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Not sure why this resister wire wasn’t connected to anything.  It was pigtailed with the ceramic ballist resister wire but this end went nowhere.   I’ve been slowly removing my emmisions thingies

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And this is the emissions cluster [email protected]#$% of cables and connectors

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This is what I’m left with to reconnect......  if I can figure out where this wiring goes.... I think it may have something to do with the fusebox and the coil...i think?

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I jet washed the engine...... came out amazing cleaner than I expected.  The M10 I put together will be clean and sterile and neat.

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This is shitty as hell....... I’m having all these aluminium parts VAPOR Blasted......  This area’s gonna look “TITS!” When Im done.

2D7C22DB-6DBF-49CF-8B77-C8D853360C4B.jpeg

Edited by Toca

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Removed valve cover and discovered this!  I’m no mechanic but that looks like a new rebuilt head..... I’m gettin luckier by the seconds!

3083EAEF-374D-4010-ABF1-94BFE6CF4055.jpeg

 

I did noticed under the carb at the mating point of the carb & manifold there was dark stains on the manifold and figured it was from a gasket leak of fuel in the mating surfaces... looks like burned/singed gas....... I don’t know?

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There’s no other area in this mating surface between the carb and manifold that has this stained/burned/gassy look but here......

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8CB3F83B-3036-43B8-9861-FAFE513E7263.jpeg

 

I’ve done my utmost to restore parts and here’s a Christmas gift to myself of restored/refurbished/painted and/or cleaned parts from the parts car...... 74A o2.  Still have to finish the heater box

C67112DC-1085-4F44-B21F-6827CF9702B7.jpeg

 

After having restored the trunk/fuel tank and spare tire area I removed all lights, locks and reflectors to get the outside body prep finished for paint.

8D6D0B03-A579-4CD0-8023-2252666C035B.jpeg

 

FROM THIS

8AF97B5D-5218-4492-910A-74AC7542D318.jpeg   TO THIS...  engine & bay after jet wash. Amazing what just water can do

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173BDBE2-1186-44FA-BAE9-FCF8D7F07DED.jpeg

Edited by Toca

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Can you tell what new parts I recieved from Ireland Engineering?  I’m kinda proud of my restoration skills.  Hardest part is to figure out what is restorable or what can be re-used.... I’ll figure it out...

A5C122C1-2292-4CFA-A915-3D5D997065A8.jpegTop, Right & bottom is Ireland Engineering

 

Those hoses  on the Rt.are blue.... I PM’d Ray my parts list and he balked a little on the color of the hoses.  I have a vision for what Mai’s gonna look like and I want anyone looking at the body-paint to faint when they see the engine compartment.  I’ve been ironing my clothes and color matching everything I wear since I was 5yrs  old so I have a kind of phobia about stuff not being color coordinated.  Mai will be painted in a Clear-water Fjord Blue metalic.  The hoses will coordinate just fine...  The interior?   THATS A SURPRISE...LOL!!!

 

 

This is a shot of Barney’s 74Tii as he just finished re-painting in the color I’ve planned for Mai....

B9F86448-CFB6-4C06-A110-3DAD10C65DCE.jpeg

Edited by Toca

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So I’ve been working on the nose and window edges.  I’m gonna remove the rear vent windows so I can complete the ass breaking work of sanding, prep. & priming all while not having taken the engine out yet.....

 

1FC8594C-2C1F-4BE0-87E0-1B12D108FCDF.jpeg

 

Rear glass edge....

8DCD9171-7672-46A7-9A4F-B73C722BA557.jpeg

75C48C4E-A01E-4F63-BBE5-270BA76E1C9C.jpeg

 

I want this gutter to NEVER rust again!!  (Not that it was rusted before but...I). I’ve scoped out some of the other FAQ people’s rust after the trim was removed and...... well, Its not gonna happen here.

1A3A8EA9-6864-4973-AB0A-246B7750929B.jpeg

01307ADB-736E-4629-964D-4EB965C669AB.jpeg

 

I think this area is known as the plenum.... sanded and will be 2nd primered...

8380E6A4-5C5F-4751-8660-EB18BF9CD94E.jpeg

 

I went thru alot to make this curved wall look great.  And you’ll figure out why I POR’d the noses deck in the next photo. Remember,  it’s all about prep and color coordination.  I think this deck looks awesome!!!  

5D8DE632-CCB2-430E-B11F-33C68603D771.jpeg

 

See how dark the Grille area is becoming?  I POR’d the deck, the hinge brackets, the face of the hinges and the interior back side of the nose. I Think I’ve accomplished the “dark grill look” as seen particularly on the Rt inside grille area.... Still have work to do on the actual nose but...... Damn!  That looks good! 

AED0AFC9-05C4-4EB1-8ABE-DF41F6F588C8.jpeg

That wall and the whole nose will be painted in Still Water Blue Metalic Fjord...  Now that’s gonna look awesome! Still have to do some smoothing out of the noses top. Next....removing the doors, trunk lid and rear vent windows.

 

Edited by Toca

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