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Well,  I drove around some pawn shops looking for a reciprocating saw/sawsall and found a Milwaukee brand for $60.  Is it just me or whenever I go to look for tools, I always find another interesting tool I don’t have (not that I have a buttload).  I got the saw to cut up a 74 BMW o2A.  I’m in California and the level of rust in OUR vehicles is very minimal and I wanted to save as many important pieces/panels of the car for the 02 community.  I have very limited space so.... if anyone is interested in buying some parts and/or body panels..... well,  now’s the time to speak up.  (Scratches his head and say, “Is anyone even reading this?......) Today’s date is November 4th 2019.  I’ll hold on to these materials until it gets in my way then I’ll have to cut the car up for scrap metal.  I do know that the automatic o2’s have a wider driveshaft tunnel ( to conv. 5sp) so I think this shell is of value to someone.  And the automatics are if not a desired model,  those of you who have them are probably starving for Xtra parts.  I have the tranny cooling system with the special RADIATOR that has a small core on the bottom with the nipple connections for the oil cooler.   I have an automatic center console and peddle box. The drive shaft for auto’s is shorter I believe.  Correct me if I’m wrong. For everyone else I have whole doors, window regulators, hatches, latches and handles.  Left and right fenders,  I cut the roof off...... IT HAS A SUNROOF!!!  Now that.... ANYONE CAN BUY.  REMEMBER GUYS.... Gotta make 

room for my Build!!!  Her name is Mai (pron. MY).  I’ll start posting pics of the build as soon as I figure out how to drop the photos in.

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My wife Tory helped again today and we installed the pedal box...the last picture shows how I cut the pedals off and re-welded them on about 3/4” farther from gas pedal to give me a little more foot room on the pedal....






halboyles, Glen Karr, danco_ and 7 others reacted to this


stronger than the will to win is the courage to begin...

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After re-wrapping the wiring, installing hood/trunk/doors locks and wiper motor... moved car outside, removed car from dolly and Set on lift to start engine bay and sub-frames install.


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Hi!! I’m TocaChakra and happy to be here....



Hi,  My name is Toca.  Before I begin this blog,  I was testing the ease of use on this site.  First thing I notice is the program/site changes the position of the photo selected.... I haven’t entered the photo yet in “Submit Entry” but when I tried downloading the profile photo it juxtapposed my photo.... A little frustrating but I’ll figure it out.  If anyone can -PM- me some helpful tips;  that would be appreciated...  This way,  I can meet some of the more active members in this community.  Here’s to success!



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Today was filled with a lot of driving. ( I have a 89 Toyota SR5)  That Trk. was my first build.  No,  its not an 02 but it taught and prepared me for anything I may find an interest in rebuilding...... like, maybe a 74 non-Tii 2002.  I’ve had this 02 car for 37yrs.  I bought a parts car 10yrs ago and I’m just now taking IT apart.  I figure, like the truck it’ll teach me everything there is to know about 02’s. It’d be nice to connect with someone on this site but until then,  I’m gonna keep teaching myself and prepare myself for the  REAL BUILD.  Here are some shots of the parts car and what it looks like. 









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AND YES!!!!     ITS A SUNROOF MODEL!!!!  I ALREADY CUT THE PILLARS but there are still a lot of parts I cleaned and/or  restored.

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I took the cover off a 2002 I’ve had for 37yrs.  I’m in Calif. so I just wanted to see how much rust has accumulated.  Just as I thought......... WHAT RUST?  Just dirt.... I’m laughing my ass off!!!


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While dissassembling the sunroof I learned that the cable tracks were siezed with rust so I devised a tubular beeker to soak all the rusted parts too long to fit in a tub or jar.  I’m using white vinegar to break up loose and surface rust.  This method works very well and doesn’t seem to corrode the zinc.  What you end up with is a very clean-up-able part that you can almost just rinse off.  I have both tracks and cable soaking at the moment but I’m certain even the small complicated moving parts will come clean as a whistle!!!



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I’ll have to post photo’s (now that I know how) of Before and After shots of these parts I’m restoring.  Problem is,  at first I couldn’t figure out the FAQ site and in the meanwhile; for the last month (October) I’ve been dimantling, restoring and teaching myself about each part I remove while taking the parts car to bits. 

    I reassembled my heater core box.  I reassembled the heater valve with all new parts, polished the brass, sprayed clear on the brass,  utilized a chrome spray can lid and created a protectant shield over the motor,  screened off the areas that so leaves don’t get to the EXPENSIVE LITTLE MOTOR and under coated/ protected the box itself.  Can’t wait to get to that point in the actual build where I’ll just have to reach up on the counter to pull parts (shiny parts!!).  It’s a lot of work but I consider it lessons learned work and good prep.  AND PREP IS THE KEY (considering I’m a F-tarded Newbie).


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This is how clean rusted and caked on dirt comes off with just pure white Vinegar.  This door mech. (Not 02) was obviously deep in the bowls of the door;  being exposed to dust, dirt and with the dirt...came rust.  I will begin taking photos of parts before they’re cleaned. Unfortunately,  I’ve been breaking this parts car to bits for a month  (OCT 2019). Parts have been removed and cleaned so I don’t have too much more to use as examples cuz they’re all clean.  BTW- I soak them for about a day and a half.


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There must not be too many in need of these parts I have available... I have to balance my time between taking apart a parts car to teach myself ( that really means- make mistakes on my own) everything I can about this car while gathering information from the internet and STARTING my build.  I’m about to invest in a really nice 4point lift system that will allow me the ability to suspend the car to about 20 inches off the deck and still allow for removal of the F&R suspensions and even give me enough clearance to remove the engine and trans simultaneously (I think).  I won’t really know the answer to that question until I JUST DO IT or get input from some of you folks on the site.   This is the lift system: 


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Its called the Quick Jack.  If anyone is reading these entries and uses this same lift system,  if you could please add your input on the worthiness of this lift I’d sure appreciate it.  


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I got up this morning around 4am (no idea why). Started working on the 02.  Struts!!!!  I had purchased a spring thing tool (to contract springs) and on the 2nd ( yeah,  no one said, “Be careful where you place the spring thing.  Use the 2-3rd coil) try I was able to compress the spring and line up the indents where the end of the coil of the spring finalizes.  I have photos:





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The one on the left is complete (filthy dirty but complete). We’ll say the one on the right was the ‘BEFORE’ shot (both are from my parts car).  The only way to teach yourself this process is to disconnect, renew/restore (these weren’t Restored) and document/photo. Rinse & Repeat.  Took me about 2hrs to do but I think I’m on the right track to redoing it on my build. My next step is to attach the front wheel hub (that should be easy,  the key word here is ‘easy’.)  I’m probably going to also attach the backing plate and whatever else ( I don’t know the names of these parts) attaches at that knuckle.

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Question:  Does the cap at the top tilt slightly to one side?  Is that because the strut is actually sitting in a (oh, I don’t know) a 5 degree angle? I’ll have to dig up some info on that...

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I spent about 8 hrs just reading and trying to soak up as much as I can. I did remove the struts off the parts car and disassembled them and had to stop at the point in the strut where the shaft protrudes from.  I managed to unscrew a rather large- I’m gonna call it a cover nut that forms the top end of the the strut tower.  Beyond that,  I’m stuck... well,  I’ll have another few hours tomorrow and hopefully someone will take pity on me and send me in the right direction OH......... AND WITH PHOTOS!!  And..... NOT PHOTOBUCKET BLURRY PHOTO-SHARES



This one on the left I took to pieces to see what its made of, what’s in it and I got to use a spring Tensioner thingy.  





The other strut.  I was trying to get this inner shaft (the orange color showing before the shaft)  out.... don’t even know if its possible.  I do have the strut bolted to the corner of the table.  That made it easier to remove the cover-nut that encompasses/centers the shaft. I gotta tell ya,  the PO tore this little automatic a new mud hole thru complacency.  I don’t know really what to look for (wear-wise) but 2 struts that don’t match in their functunality gotta mean something.  




My BimmerBIBLE



This is the shaft I’d like to slide out of that hole..... Grrrr!  Somebody know how to do this?






And a Happy ThanxGivin to ALL!!!    ME (TOCA), will be sharing that spliff with ole’  TOEKY the Bear @4:20!!!



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Today was the culmination of 2 months hemming and hawing about buying a 4pt lift.  I went with the Quick Jack.  I left a message on the site for anyone who’s already purchased one to give me a PM on how they liked/disliked the lift.  Got no response ( I’ll probably get a butt-load of responses AFTER I purchase.... just sayin’). So anyway,  I bought it.  I started cleaning and clearing the shop to actually get to THE BUILD!!!  After having taken an o2 apart and cleaned and restored what was restorable,  I was on the computer (02 FAQ) nteaching myself about this car.  Many thanks to those who purchased the Automatic parts and to o2Lane (in San Diego) for coming to my home and showing me his fab 02.  Now it’s time for ME to kick it in the pie hole and get it started.!!!


Shots of the ‘ACTUAL’ 02 I’m working on:







































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Today I removed the gas tank and got a small surprise in the way of a filter about an 1.25” that just dropped  out of the tank as I was emptying the 9yr old gas.  ‘This is a shot of before (yeah, I know its f-n clean even with dirt on it.) I removed.








I mean,  look at the tank !!!  It looks like I’m installing a new one!!




 I was equally surprise at how clean and rust free the tank and the fuel inside was.  The filler rubber was supple and not cracked!!!  45ys old and everything on this car is the original everything. Hell,  I’m the second owner.  I’m almost certain I painted the exterior; around 2001.  I stayed with its original color Fjord Blue.  Don’t know the number code.  Just found this:


The BMW 2002 US VIN 4220682 was manufactured on January 10th, 1974 and delivered on January 15th, 1974 to the BMW importer Hoffman Motors Corp. in New York City. The original colour was Fjord metallic, paint code 037. ok....... So that makes this car (cept’ the carbs- one Weber 32/36) completely original.  











Trunk interior looks new...



I’m very lucky and grateful for all this rust free stuff.  Still gonna take my time...


Here is a shot of the bottom of the tank.... that bottom right corner gives me the impression that PO may have primered the bottom.  The edge on the left is the only rust.  This is moving me to put the tank back in and see if I can get this M10 goin’. 


P.S.- there’s a shot of the sending units filter Circular Disk that fell out of the tank as I bled the fuel.

Mind you,  it was clean as a whistle as well as the sending unit AND the bled fuel. (Yr old fuel.


Edited 17 hours ago by Toca 



Using a part that Daddy saved, (oh... I don’t know, 12yrs ago) I was able to create the tire hold-down.  I think it’s a (rather large) hose clamp, threaded down the middle. For this to be complete I’ll have to use shorter bolt’s.  I didn’t like seeing that extra long bolt you see in the photo. Petty?  To me it’s a cleaner look than just a huge NUT to cinch down the tire.  And just for Ghits  Shiggles I threw in one of the steelies/tires from the parts car...... I wanted to see the fit.  I hope to put larger tires and I saw how someone on the Forum custom created a floor panel that would accommodate the larger tire/spare.  Don’t know if I’ll have to modify the well but I’m gonna make it happen... 

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Today,  i worked on improving my socket & ball removal/disconnecting technique.  You see, its raining in California. Or at least in southern Cal. Its rained.  I’m not sure what this arm is called (other then an ARM).  I removed the ball from socket by drilling out the three rivets with a 1/4 drill first to establish a small tunnel thru the rivet so I can then use an 11/64 final drill bit.  I say final because when you center the 11/64 bit to the 1/4 hole,  you can move the drill & bit in a circular motion and the bit will cut a radius opening and after a few sec.’s  the rivet will disconnect itself from the spot it’s riveted to. Then you take a punch and punch the neck of the rivet out....just pops out.  Vaula!  I decided to save these arms because their Expensive as hell.  I think its called a trailing arm.  Not sure really but I do know one thing .... I KICKED ITS ASS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    On a side not:  I cleared the electrical on the Build.  I located as many ground connections and  re-wired the coil (looks much neater) added a 4gauge cable from the battery directly to the starter +terminal.  Then, while the coil was dissconnected I turned the engine over to possibly prime out the oil form the oil pan.  Next!  I’ll be strategically placing my Quick-Jack to lift the car about 22in.’s off the deck.  That’ll be an awesome moment because it’ll mark the beginning of Mai’s build.  WoooHooooo!


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Posted (edited)

Look at these GOODIES!





The speed blaster is for parts cleaning and paint prep..... YippyDippy!

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Lots of incidental bumps/dents.  Cant say it’s not original 40yr dents and all


I needed to mar the surface paint and when I did,  rust showed up “UNDER THE NICE BLACK PAINT” so... I sanded the whole thing keeping an eye for hidden rust.



THis shot looks as though I had already painted it REALLY glossy but in reality,  its an optical illusion.  Those white areas are not shinnyness,  it’s sanding to the metal.  I’m going to use POR 15 metal grease and grime cleaner followed by  etch&prep after which I will paint the tank with POR15.

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While I’m restoring the electrical/grounds locations in prep for restarting the M10 I decided to try my hand at the steering box... Wish Me Skill!

I finished reassembling the steering box of my 74A parts car.  In order to teach myself (with the help of You’s Guy’s) how to replace the seals and improve my cleaning skills.  I figure I can take it apart again (no,  I haven’t pressed the steering arm <don’t know if that’s what it’s called>). I did learn from FAQ that the arm and the spleened shaft have a mark on each to place the arm in the correct orientation.



This is the arm and spleen shaft linedup to the line-up indent line on the end of the shft as well as on the face of the arm.



The alignment indents were clearly visible to me as you can see in the photo...



Then... there’s this large ( I think it’s a self locking nut) nut that’s seems challenging to “just screw it down” because you get to a certain point and it’ll take an impact ratchet to move it down further into it’s place.  Further begging the question, “Do I have to replace this with a NEW nut?  I’ll call it -ONE time NUT-use” 


I will disassemble it again to clean out all the old fluid/grease/poly replace the seals and probably have to order that ONE time USE nut.  Unless someone reads this an responds with a way of refitting the OLD nut back on... till then,  I’ll have this baby refinished and painted and looking like NOS.

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After lifting out the fuse panel and locating the correct wire & connector I was able to begin removing the Emissions vacuums and electrical connections associated with the procedure.




This beige colored wire/cable insulation is what most o2’s come with if your car is like mine.  A Calif. Veh. But too old to smog.  Yey for me!



Before I put it all back in (after removing it all once the motor comes to life) I’ve taken the opportunity to collect photos of just engine bays to see who’s the most creative/ingenious in their cable routing. Engine dispay is critical in my build as I want all areas to appear pristine and clean.   



My 74’ didn’t seem to have the Orange colored diagnostic hub on the fender wall so I removed one from my 74A’. Ill figure out how to wire it into the electrical sytem as I rewire and redirect all of these cables to the fuse box.



I was happy I was able to get a picture of the infamous stereo cable looking resitor wire seen here at the very bottom of the photo attached and crimped with another black and red cable, I think it goes to the coil if anyone can correct me on that it’d be awesome.


Still have to figure out what vacuum lines or carb vacuum nibs to block off...... but that’s what so fun about these cars.  Figuring it out, learning alot and makin’ your car look special to you... Does anyone have any suggestions on what electronic ignition and dizzy (123? Programable dizzy) I know i’m converting to electronic ignition but that’s way down the road sometime...or “WHILE IM HERE CREEPIN?”

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I started to check and cross check my electrical in the engine compartment and this is the condition of the box itself BEFORE I removed and soaked in a mixture of white vinegar and salt.  It sat for 24hrs and the next morning.......




I saw this!!!



I’m debating slathering the fuse compartment with as much dielectric grease to preserve its FRESH look and to save on as much corrosion as possible.  Specifically,  I will leave a thick concentration of die-lec grease between the schematic card and the prongs/connections you don’t see. I also plastic coated the wire color schematic on the underside of the fuse box.  In the parts car this card was much cleaner and the colors were much brighter so.... BTW- the rubber/foam gasket was also in much better condition.



This cluster F#@$%^ of cables I plan to use my TORNADORE to thouroghly clean.  If You fastidious  builders don’t have this cleaning tool SHAME ON YOU!!!  I am able to beautifully clean this pile of cables while attached in their respective place.  Yeah,  Im actually going to pour water vapor on electical cables ( battery dis-connected of course) and its gonna come out awesome.  


Edited by Toca

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This nose section looked strange to my untrained eye.  Doesn’t the radiator look cock-eyed,  closer on the top than the bottom near the snorkle. Turns out,  the head light housing was TWEEKED and I had to spend an hour or so removing the rad and reforming the the metal the radiator attaches to.  The last photo in this series is the repaired nose or at least what my humble hands can do.



62FF3D43-D0E0-4964-B547-E4363FA0CF81.jpeg  You can see in this photo DS light bucket the bottom corner is separated, rusty and this damage follows the area where the radiator attached.  I follow the same damaged pattern as the light bucket. I set about doing this body work and the results (before prime & paint) is the last photo in this series. 



Yes..... that’s much straighter and clears the red fan.  Now I have to repair the engine mount.



Who the fuck thought it was a good idea to hide the bottom passenger side radiator attachement bolt between something that looks as though it will position a fan shroud and in the deepest corner just behind the bottom hose bib?  I figured it out by using a 10mm wrench to substantially loosen this little bolt and got to it and released it from the face of the nose where the grill would be. There’s just a few threads to unscrew and once you’ve loosened it from the inside it comes out really easy. BUT.... why the fuck put it there (the bolt I mean)?

Edited by Toca

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Spent the day sanding and shaping metal.....I’ve been 2days so far working on tidying up the small imperfections on the nose piece of my 74’ o2.  Granted,  noone will ever look or see the area of the bonnet nearest the hinges on the inside of engine compartment.  I said I would take this project to as much detail as my experience will allow.  Almost finished with the nose so in the next few day’s, hell, maybe tomorrow..... I’ll primer this area. Fixed the cock-eyed radiator.  How the supports got so cady-wompus, I have no idea but I fixed it and I think I’ll use the parts car radiator. Surprisingly,  it’s in better shape than mine.  It also has a nice brass top.  Not sure I’ll keep it that way......



A whole cluster f%$#@* of sanding and shaping tool on a piece of plexiglass...BIG ASS HAMMER TOO!



Here’s a shot of the Rt. Fender lookin’ pretty clean.  The nose is almost done.



The trunk came out spectacular and the rust patch on nthe right is now NOT RUST.  I will smooth this area with very little bondo...... it’ll just be a surface touch.  Once the tank is in I’ll turn “MAI” on.  Maybe i’ll just tickle her tail pipe.... thats a turn-on, right?



This tank has been in the trunk for about 2 weeks since i sanded it down.  Too wet and COLD here in Cali? Yeah, Im Puerto Rican and abhor the cold.  Plus paint doesn’t work nvery well when the temp is at 42F degrees. 



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Hey, that filter that fell out of your tank belongs on the bottom of the fuel pickup, in case you didn't find out yet.


Also I don't think you are supposed to have that resistor wire along with the ballast resistor. But that may depend on your coil. Or other things!


Good luck with the project! You're making good progress. Well, compared to the past 37 years anyway!



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