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Well,  I drove around some pawn shops looking for a reciprocating saw/sawsall and found a Milwaukee brand for $60.  Is it just me or whenever I go to look for tools, I always find another interesting tool I don’t have (not that I have a buttload).  I got the saw to cut up a 74 BMW o2A.  I’m in California and the level of rust in OUR vehicles is very minimal and I wanted to save as many important pieces/panels of the car for the 02 community.  I have very limited space so.... if anyone is interested in buying some parts and/or body panels..... well,  now’s the time to speak up.  (Scratches his head and say, “Is anyone even reading this?......) Today’s date is November 4th 2019.  I’ll hold on to these materials until it gets in my way then I’ll have to cut the car up for scrap metal.  I do know that the automatic o2’s have a wider driveshaft tunnel ( to conv. 5sp) so I think this shell is of value to someone.  And the automatics are if not a desired model,  those of you who have them are probably starving for Xtra parts.  I have the tranny cooling system with the special RADIATOR that has a small core on the bottom with the nipple connections for the oil cooler.   I have an automatic center console and peddle box. The drive shaft for auto’s is shorter I believe.  Correct me if I’m wrong. For everyone else I have whole doors, window regulators, hatches, latches and handles.  Left and right fenders,  I cut the roof off...... IT HAS A SUNROOF!!!  Now that.... ANYONE CAN BUY.  REMEMBER GUYS.... Gotta make 

room for my Build!!!  Her name is Mai (pron. MY).  I’ll start posting pics of the build as soon as I figure out how to drop the photos in.

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My wife Tory helped again today and we installed the pedal box...the last picture shows how I cut the pedals off and re-welded them on about 3/4” farther from gas pedal to give me a little more foot room on the pedal....

 

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stronger than the will to win is the courage to begin...

Message added by Toca

After re-wrapping the wiring, installing hood/trunk/doors locks and wiper motor... moved car outside, removed car from dolly and Set on lift to start engine bay and sub-frames install.

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Hi!! I’m TocaChakra and happy to be here....


Toca

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Hi,  My name is Toca.  Before I begin this blog,  I was testing the ease of use on this site.  First thing I notice is the program/site changes the position of the photo selected.... I haven’t entered the photo yet in “Submit Entry” but when I tried downloading the profile photo it juxtapposed my photo.... A little frustrating but I’ll figure it out.  If anyone can -PM- me some helpful tips;  that would be appreciated...  This way,  I can meet some of the more active members in this community.  Here’s to success!

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Thanks Ray!  I’ve been scouring the FAQ to find a much more detail, w/photo’s and step by step on how to clear all emissions things.  I have left the emissions in a state of flux till I figure out the resistor thing and I do remember reading that If you had a blue coil,  the resistor wire is included in the set up but there’s not a complete explaination of how to  RE_WIRE the resistor wire,  keep it in-line?  Tie with other cables?  Attach to the fuse box in space #12 ( I believe )?  As I said (and I read a lot),  I haven’t come across that DETAILED write-up.... can you give me a hand?  BTW- My coil is black.  And that’s strange that I found the resistor wire crimped together with a black and red-stripe wire leading to the coil.  If I understand correctly,  the resitor wire is an in-line wire between the batt. And the coil so the coil will not get a full 12v’s but 9v’s,  is that right?  This car was running just fine with the set up of Blk coil & resistor wire-?  Go figure.....

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See if this helps ;-)

 

 

For emissions, I  think I'd start by removing everything related. I don't recall what year your car is, but those which came with electrical emissions controls/solenoids had dedicated harnesses for such.

 

All assuming you don't need to  pass Cali emissions testing!

 

Cheers,

 

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As a 74’ it bypasses inspection.  I have removed the tan color insulated emissions wire harness and have it spread over the top of the engine.  The clear insulated resistor wire is in the same tan harness. I also have the ceramic external resistor right next to the coil.  The tan harness went directly to the coil.  My problem is “What wires do I keep and how/where do i connect/use whats left?

 

Thanks again for the instant reply... as of this typing I’ve only read the first article (one which I have read before recently). That article explained the myth and made me aware of the importance of having an OE black coil but really doesnt go into what or which wires to keep and how to re-direct the remaining left over cables.  See my problem?

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Ok,  between trying to get some paint goin’ but  a man’s gotta feed himself so I went shopping,  picked up some paint brushes for the POR and got right back to painting the fuel tank/gas tank. I went with a FAQ suggestion re: using SEM Chip gaurd.  Looks amazing but I’m on the second coat of Cip Guard because I noticed that, for calling it chip guard, I managed to ‘chip’ the tank while removing some tape.  It was small but....... really?  Chip guard that chips with a scraping of a finger nail while trying to remove the tape seems a littly suspicious.  I give it a couple days driying in the 80* weather here and I hope it solidifys the paint.  I’m really never gonna see it but YOU KNOW DAMN WELL THAT I’LL BE THINKIN’ ABOUT IT ...... we’ll see...

 

So here she is........ that’s her bottom half

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She’s got enough bumps and dings to make here a SEASONED fuel tank...

Edited by Toca
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Ok,  between trying to get some paint goin’ but  a man’s gotta feed himself so I went shopping,  picked up some paint brushes for the POR and got right back to painting the fuel tank/gas tank. I went with a FAQ suggestion re: using SEM Chip gaurd.  Looks amazing but I’m on the second coat of POR because I noticed that, for calling it chip guard, I managed to ‘chip’ the tank while removing some tape.  It was small but....... really?  Chip guard that chips with a scraping of a finger nail while trying to remove the tape seems a littly suspicious.  I give it a couple days driying in the 80* weather here and I hope it solidifys the paint.  I’m really never gonna see it but YOU KNOW DAMN WELL THAT I’LL BE THINKIN’ ABOUT IT ...... we’ll see...

 

So here she is........ that’s her bottom half

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HJere’s the other side POR”D...

 

She’s got enough bumps and dings to make here a SEASONED fuel tank...

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POR means Paint Over Rust. Sticking it over chip guard may yield... interesting results!

 

Good luck,

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On 1/31/2020 at 3:35 PM, ray_ said:

POR means Paint Over Rust. Sticking it over chip guard may yield... interesting results!

 

Good luck,

No Ray,   bottom is all chip guard,   Top 1/2 is POR I must have not communicated that in the post

 

 

Bottom

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TOP = POR

 

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I was intially leary of the chip guard because I was able to “CHIP” it with my fingernail will removing the masking tape.  This morning I looked at the tank ( it was drying in the trunk along with the fuel tank opening, which I POR’d and after just  14hrs of drying overnite I got this........... :

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Oh.... I see where you got that impression....... from this mis typed quote:  “ Looks amazing but I’m on the second coat of POR because I noticed that, for calling it chip guard, “.  I should have said “I’m on the second coat of Chip Guard”. I’ve since edited that statement.  Thanks for your careful attention, Ray.  You’re a good man.....

 

 

 

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Took out my light buckets.  The last 4 months I devoted to dismantling my 74A o2.  I would remove a part study everything I could about the part,  clean&restore.  Rinse&Repeat...... In anticipation of the build I cleaned & restored the license plate holder and the headlight buckets.  Not sure I want to keep the Brass ring brass..... we’ll see......

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Headlights are Sylvania’s 

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I’m using  4m allen/aircraft bolts to secure the license plate.... I mean,  who carries an allen wrench to steal a license plate?  Having been a police officer I was called out to people who’s plates were stolen.  I would always recommend Allen bolts, and by that time, they knew why... go figure

F53E5A71-0B52-4D43-9E45-3F88B36B00F7.jpegYes, my lic. Lights F@#$ 

I pick up a new set for $80........ Oh Boy!

 

 

Cleaned and restored this fuel spout.  AND for another $80 I can pick up a new one... which I will before I installl

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Noticed I’d posted to What did you do to your 2002 today but I hadn’t posted any entries in my BUILD so,  here goes as of Feb2nd (today’s the 10th)

 

    Spent a week working on the nose,  bonnet hinges and the deck of the nose which was previously coated with undercoat black. Then,  that under coat was painted Fjord Blue but the paint would not adhere to the undercoating.  Back then,  I didn’t know what I was doing;  I just wanted a neat and clean engine bay.  I did not prep the area well enough and rust devleloped under the under-coating.  So,  I wire-wheeled and sanded and repaired inconsistancies in the structural areas like the light bucket area which was having a tranferal effect on how the radiator was bolted at it’s face/nose.  Originally thought my radiator was not sitting proper because of a broken engine mount because there were swirl marks left by the fan blades.  Turns out I had to tweek the light bucket area to straighten out the rails where the radiator is bolted to.  Once that body/metal work was done to my satisfaction I went and primered the fender top-deck (L&R) and repaired the snorkel hole and reworked the small dents on the deck area just fore of the radiator till it was just metal.  I’td rained alot so my time workin on the area was limited by the weather.... let’s face it,  I live in always sunny San Diego and I was NOT going to be doing work outside in the cold or wet.  F*&$# THAT!  Instead,  I got my housework done and I washed a load of working clothes laundry and treated myself to lesson’s on how to play with my o2.  

 

7E23B3F3-E478-4556-9F15-2ED35D97ED81.thumb.jpeg.631a91ea3befbdf76fa87da0b746e1af.jpegThe snorkel is mangled at the bottom.  Repaired

 

 

 The undercoating did coat but not protect from rust.  This is a shot of before I sanded and brought this area to just metal. The dark Brown spots are rusted areas UNDER the black undercoating.  Sanded and treated the rust with Rust Mort and the process to me about a week to finish.  Now,  I’ll wait for the rain to stop and primer the nose area.

 

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BB85D29A-9DEE-40B1-99A9-E7D33D47F9B6.jpegI hope my light bucket brackets look plumb & lined.

 

It rained and rained that oxidation occured.  That’s the ‘gold’/ ‘brass’ tone on the nose deck.  They say “shit happens”?  So does rust.....

 

 

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100D7EED-A774-41F8-8D5C-8E6B51B41507.jpegI’m pretty sure this is Plumb & lined......& flat.

 I’ll have the deck sprayed Fjord and under the deck & light buckets flat black

 

 

 

E73D410A-6183-4BD4-8F8B-BA824B8FD2FA.jpegRadiator sits proper ....... rail/wall in front straight

Edited by Toca
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Not sure why this resister wire wasn’t connected to anything.  It was pigtailed with the ceramic ballist resister wire but this end went nowhere.   I’ve been slowly removing my emmisions thingies

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And this is the emissions cluster F!@#$% of cables and connectors

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This is what I’m left with to reconnect......  if I can figure out where this wiring goes.... I think it may have something to do with the fusebox and the coil...i think?

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I jet washed the engine...... came out amazing cleaner than I expected.  The M10 I put together will be clean and sterile and neat.

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This is shitty as hell....... I’m having all these aluminium parts VAPOR Blasted......  This area’s gonna look “TITS!” When Im done.

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Removed valve cover and discovered this!  I’m no mechanic but that looks like a new rebuilt head..... I’m gettin luckier by the seconds!

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I did noticed under the carb at the mating point of the carb & manifold there was dark stains on the manifold and figured it was from a gasket leak of fuel in the mating surfaces... looks like burned/singed gas....... I don’t know?

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There’s no other area in this mating surface between the carb and manifold that has this stained/burned/gassy look but here......

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I’ve done my utmost to restore parts and here’s a Christmas gift to myself of restored/refurbished/painted and/or cleaned parts from the parts car...... 74A o2.  Still have to finish the heater box

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After having restored the trunk/fuel tank and spare tire area I removed all lights, locks and reflectors to get the outside body prep finished for paint.

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FROM THIS

8AF97B5D-5218-4492-910A-74AC7542D318.jpeg   TO THIS...  engine & bay after jet wash. Amazing what just water can do

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Can you tell what new parts I recieved from Ireland Engineering?  I’m kinda proud of my restoration skills.  Hardest part is to figure out what is restorable or what can be re-used.... I’ll figure it out...

A5C122C1-2292-4CFA-A915-3D5D997065A8.jpegTop, Right & bottom is Ireland Engineering

 

Those hoses  on the Rt.are blue.... I PM’d Ray my parts list and he balked a little on the color of the hoses.  I have a vision for what Mai’s gonna look like and I want anyone looking at the body-paint to faint when they see the engine compartment.  I’ve been ironing my clothes and color matching everything I wear since I was 5yrs  old so I have a kind of phobia about stuff not being color coordinated.  Mai will be painted in a Clear-water Fjord Blue metalic.  The hoses will coordinate just fine...  The interior?   THATS A SURPRISE...LOL!!!

 

 

This is a shot of Barney’s 74Tii as he just finished re-painting in the color I’ve planned for Mai....

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Edited by Toca
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So I’ve been working on the nose and window edges.  I’m gonna remove the rear vent windows so I can complete the ass breaking work of sanding, prep. & priming all while not having taken the engine out yet.....

 

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Rear glass edge....

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I want this gutter to NEVER rust again!!  (Not that it was rusted before but...I). I’ve scoped out some of the other FAQ people’s rust after the trim was removed and...... well, Its not gonna happen here.

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I think this area is known as the plenum.... sanded and will be 2nd primered...

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I went thru alot to make this curved wall look great.  And you’ll figure out why I POR’d the noses deck in the next photo. Remember,  it’s all about prep and color coordination.  I think this deck looks awesome!!!  

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See how dark the Grille area is becoming?  I POR’d the deck, the hinge brackets, the face of the hinges and the interior back side of the nose. I Think I’ve accomplished the “dark grill look” as seen particularly on the Rt inside grille area.... Still have work to do on the actual nose but...... Damn!  That looks good! 

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That wall and the whole nose will be painted in Still Water Blue Metalic Fjord...  Now that’s gonna look awesome! Still have to do some smoothing out of the noses top. Next....removing the doors, trunk lid and rear vent windows.

 

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6D31C1CB-1E8B-483B-BEC0-93C2CB26D924.jpeg

 

After really cleaning the fuses contact points I re-installed

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Even took the diagnostic hub off the parts car and moved it to my 74’ build.  Really straightforward... matching wire colors, using bullet connections and putting it all back together.  

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Mai......my 74’ now has a diag. Hub!  Voila! The prongs to keep the hub set in place were not working so well so I took a semi-spring-SS key ring to make a jumper/keep closed thingy.  

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After many checks and re-checks I dropped her in...

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I think she looks pretty...... (not the correct fuses).  Made a visit to Carl @ LaJolla Independent and he gave me a fuse box decal (they’ll send you any decal on your car) and I was able to sort out the correct fuse’s

 

 

Then I cleaned up what was left of the emissions delete  (cables, hoses, plugs etc.) and it went from this:

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To This........

 

 

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I’ll be removing all these parts but before I paint I’m enjoying rearranging the cables and cleaning Mai up!

 

 

I’m happy with all of this........ and yes, I’ll be re-wrapping ALL those harnesses......in the end it’ll look line a “Shiney green suit”...... ( a line from “Good Morning Vietnam”)

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Started removing the hood, trunk lid and the doors.  While removing the drivers door I noticed that the bracket that the door-check pins to was very loose.  It’s not suppose to be loose; it’s suppose to be spot welded to the inside of the fender/door-jam where you can see the interior light button.  Just below the button you can see 2 horizontal rectangular openings.  That’s where the door check bracket protrudes out to receive the door check arm/pivot. I bagged and tagged the bracket and will search the forum to learn how to repair this seemingly minor issue..... While researching the subject I learned a lot about the door-checks.  One- The OE D.C.’s are expensive as hell.  I decided on replacing the DC’s with DC’s from a Mercedes 300D.  Everything I’ve looked up regarding these DC’s gives me the indication that I may have to either place washers behind the actual door check from inside the door itself.  If that’s not possible I will have to shorten the pivot arm that protrudes out of the inside portion of the  door itself.  

 

184E249B-6DB8-438B-AD26-95B34EF6A50A.jpeg Misssing doorcheck bracket on DS door

 

After removing the doors I photo’d as much of the doors as I felt was relevant to help me remember how to reassemble the inner parts (regulator, glass, adjusters, nuts and bolts. First item I removed was the door latch mechanism. This came out easily after removing the 2- 4MM allen bolts holding the door/catch.  Then, 2 Phillip screws/bolts to remove.  I removed all in one w/rod and opening lever with the door latch mechanism attached together.  Then,  the mirrors.  The following photo’s show where rust is located.  So far, rust is in the usual suspect areas.  This shot shows the bottom of the passenger door.  Once the innards are outtered, I’ll sand, treat, primer and weather proof the inside with possibly POR15.... I’ve only started on one door so how I will weather-proof these doors is still under investigation.

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Seems to be a lot of white adhesive for the visqueen sheet that goes between the door and the door cards.  A lot of rust on the bottom weep holes.  

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A view of the hinge side and the door check pivot arm opening.  2- 10M bolts keep the door-check in place.  

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This is shot of the rubber cushion?/ plug that is place on the leading corner near the 1/4 ventilation window.  I’ve read that these have a tendency to fall off/ come off.  Their still available thru BluntTec.   Left- Part# 51-71-6-454-227.  

                                                             Right-        51-71-6-454-228         List’s for $17.06 ea.

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Same rubber cushion/plug

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Inside door sill rust......

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Next I’ll remove the window winder and door catch/latch mechanisms......

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I removed the door opener mech and the door catch/latch mech.  Really straight forward process... First item I removed was the door latch mechanism. This came out easily after removing the 2- 4MM ALLEN bolts holding the door/catch.  Then, 2 Phillip screws/bolts to remove.  I removed all in one w/rod and opening lever with the door latch mechanism attached together.  

D22B38FE-34F8-46D8-96CA-61177ABCA674.jpeg

 

Next- Removal of the Vent window

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The top right corner is where we’ll concentrate on removing the vent wing window.  Note the large cut-out to the left of the spring (wrong spring for that spot)  near the leading edge 1/3 from the top of the door.  Also note the Stainless steel trim that abutts the vent window but travels from RT to LFT INTO the door.  The large cut-out that looks like there’s and Number 7 in it, just below where I just typed 7.  At the end of this trim is a hidden bolt.  The 2nd hidden bolt and it’s removal is required to remove the wing window.  Ill post a photo of these holes/cutouts and the location of the hidden bolts next.

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This is near the 1/3 portion from the top and that’s a 10mm bolt that screws into an threaded opening but not before going thru a looped arm that IS the vent window roller knob thingy

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Once you’ve located the 2 hidden bolts then by that time you will have figured out the the see’able bolts on vent window will be removed and you’ll be able to slide the whole vent window out from the top.  NOTE: roll the window down before you attemp to remove the ventilation wing window.

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The vent window out you’re able to see the one short arm (rusty) where the 1st hidden bolt is attached.

C7755BBA-81BF-4051-BA07-222A86D5A866.jpeg

 

The long stainless trim abutting the vent window and dropping INTO the window is where you’ll find the 2nd hidden bolt, nut and star washer can be seen in the photo below

8CFEA985-63E5-4A46-B7AF-1369347F4C34.jpeg  This long end goes......

 

HERE......... ( This cutout is the same as the first photo in this line-up ). You can see the bolt screws into a captive nut hidden behind the L bracket in the photo.....

 

DB3A716B-BE2B-4080-A0C1-F5708824F58E.jpeg

 

Next-  We’ll remove the door-check....

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Remove these 2 10mm bolts located at the leading/hinged portion of the door.  Very easy removal.   There’s also the white knob that meets with the interior light button.  The interior light button is located at the door jam of the trailing end of the front passenger fender

93910337-2697-4DAD-A140-80B27BF420D9.jpeg

528564E8-BF45-49A8-9F60-57FF653915F2.jpegThe white contact knob can be seen here

 

Next..... we’ll remove the  5t=4 

Edited by Toca
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    I tried starting the engine 2days ago and it seems there’s a problem with the starter.  The bendix gear engages but seems to be off kilter or the gear pulls back enough to create a grinding noise and the fan stops rotating.  At least I know the engine’s not seized because if the fan is spinning it’s free to move the crank. Mai never got to the point of acutually cranking.  Just a couple of movements from the fan blade.  That’s plenty for me to begin dis-assembling.  So I started with the carburetor  then moved on to the alternator.  I left the pivot bracket attached to the engine.  Removing the alternator gave me room to remove the intake manifold.  In particular, the lower nuts on the studs where the intake attaches are OBVIOUSLY under the intake manifold.  Starting from the nose going back,  the 2nd nut was hidden and there was no room for a wrench.  Possibly a thin walled socket but I used a stubby open/closed wrench and painstakingly removed that nut.  The problem was that that nut would rub on the bottom of the manifold.  I didn’t exactly round over that nut but there was little clearance before the nut would make contact with the manifold.  It came off but I’m going to put this situation into my head so I can modify the manifold so that, when I put it back in,  I’ll be able to get a good grip of the nut to torque to value.  On another note,  I’ve noticed that a lot of the nut’s and bolts I’m removing have not been torqued.  I remember,  when I was the fucktarded paying public,  I paid close to 8 grand to bring the engine back to life.  I should have known this guy was a crook because I remember going to SD to pick up the car and the valves had not even been adjusted.  That was the condition of the car when this fucktard told me it was done.  His name is  Brian’s King, I believe.   He claimed to work exclusively on Porches and BMW’s.  I wouldn’t let him work on my toilet.....

94DB9046-B257-49F0-A11B-74DF221A0574.jpeg

 

Then I started on the starter.... having already removed the intake manifold. Two small nuts held the starter in a bracket.  And,  2 17mm nuts and bolts to release it from the bell housing and the starter was in my hand.  Obviously there are many hoses and electrical connectors that have to be dis-connected before you can remove all these parts.  All in all,  it was breezy job.  CHeers! 

Edited by Toca
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I know there are 12mm (or smaller than stock anyway) nuts for the manifold. toby has posted about them before, I think they are VW-related.

 

Cheers,

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14 hours ago, ray_ said:

I know there are 12mm (or smaller than stock anyway) nuts for the manifold. toby has posted about them before, I think they are VW-related.

 

Cheers,

Do these nuts have a smaller Outside Diameter than the 12mm bolts I finally/painstakingly  removed?  What do VW’s have to do with these nuts? Thanks for the quick response...

 

-Toca

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While inspecting the engine for inconsistencies I noticed this dark area just below the carb.  It gave me pause for thought and I reasoned that it was caused by a leak between the manifold and the carburetor gasket.  When I got to that area during removal of the carb,  I noticed that the 4 nuts holding the carb in place were very loose...... as though they had never been torqued.  I have a feeling I’m going to run into this problem a lot.  Seems Brian Kings employees weren’t as thorough as they should have been (that was 10yrs ago when I had the engine refreshed) at a cost of 8grand.  Yes.... I was a fucktard? and NO, I was not stoned...

D601C24C-7C38-48F3-924C-10FBFE4CBF8E.jpeg

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