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Turbo update

Dudeland

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Hey folks just a quick update for the three people following me.   The Turbo is being redone, and will back to me in about a week.   I will update this  post with regards to the bits that I have procured to help me manage boost, temperatures and pressures etc....

 

 

So considering I have a bit of time before I go boosted, I decided to taking the log boat from China approach.  If I can wait a month to get the sensor, I can save myself a lot of $$.  Like a map sensor for $10 instead of 50 etc etc..   I ordered many of these as soon as I received the shipment of parts.   I am on the fence about these things, but the saving grace will be the exhaust temperature sensors,  they will be the last line of defence to make sure nothing gets melted in case something goes wrong.  I can setup a failsafe in the computer if any of them go over a particular temperature it will go into safe(er) mode.   I am on the fence about drive by wire for my throttle body.  Kinda techy, but it enables me down the road to do a rudimentary traction control system if/when I get a driveshaft speed sensor, and wheel speed sensor.  It also lets me to do LHM in case anything goes wonky. 

 

The only other thing I am trying to figure out is doing boost by gear.  The problem is letting the computer know which gear I am in.  The G245 has no provision for it, and I am not sure if/how I could build one.   But I am getting ahead of myself.   Here is what I have so far. 

 

 

 

So here is the 3 bar standard GM MAP sensor.    $14.51 for the sensor. 

 

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Here is the Gm style inlet temp sensor.  $25.64 for the sensor and plug, $15.05 for 2 bungs.  I may get a second one, that way I can put one before the intercooler and one after, to see how well it is  doing it's job.    I already have the GM style coolant temp sensor, so I am good there. 

 

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Here are the EGT sensors with fittings to tap into the exhaust housing. $37.33 for four of them 

 

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Here is the canbus interface for the EGT to get the information into the computer.    $116.00

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Here is the 3 port boost control solenoid.  There are 2, 3 and 4 port.  I did the three port one as it works best with the blow off valve I have.  $24.75.  I took a look at tons of them,  they are all the same format and design, so I can only think that they are likely re-branded from this company in China.  Some were charging $200 for the same one (it appears). We will have to wait and see how it turns out. 

 

 

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Here is the corn controller.  It is a standard GM style ethanol sensor.  $29.03 for the sensor,  $4.11 for the plug and $26.35 for the 6an adapters (best price I could find) .  I will have to replace about 20 feet of hose to run E85, worth the investment to experiment with this.  Also it will allow me to automatically  adjust my tune based on what fuel I actually have in the tank vs. what the pump says. 

 

 

 

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Also I got some microswitches.   I am going to program this to flat shift, which means that I can set how high my revs go when I put my foot on the clutch.  Essentially I can put my foot to the floor and keep it there and shift through the gears without it redlining when I depress the clutch.    Less laggy, more boosty... at least that is what the internet says, and for the $2.00, it is worth the experiment.  People who do this also play with anti-lag,  I am not sure I want to go down that road until I upgrade my internals. 

 

 

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Here is my IAC unit.  Tom at 02 again of course makes great stuff.  Here is the adapter on the jeep IAC unit.  $14.19 for the IAC unit. It was $69.90 USD for the adapter.   I am not sure what that works out in CDN, probably about $100 with duty, taxes and shipping.  This of course is just mocked up. 

 

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Thanks, and that is it for now.  I will show off the rebuilt Turbo sometime next week (hopefully), and go into what housing I am using as well as the compressor wheel.   

 

Still waiting for the MS gold box,  I will take a look at it on black friday,  still not anywhere close to swapping out the intake.   

 

I am looking at a new/rebuilt steering box yet to be installed, along with correcting a problem with my heater valve,  then looking to get my diff rebuilt with the ghost LSD insert, then I realised my clutch master is toast,  which means I might as well do my pedal box as I have had the I.E kit for a year... and of course might as well put in the performance brake booster pivot sleeve while I am at it.(I have had that for a year).    And then finalize a couple bits on my A/C and re-install my console, and then... and then ... and then.... 

 

How did I get here again?
 

Thanks. 

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I also took the injectors to get checked out.  Considering the turbo fiasco, I don't trust anything.  There is a local(ish) shop called West Coast Fuel Injection and Turbo, recommended to me by a friend of mine.  I dropped off the injectors to see how they function and how much they actually flow.   Again... trying not to melt a piston. 

 

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I also ordered this fuel pump holder and a couple of vibration mounts.  I am just using the padded P clip, knowing that I would have to tidy up the mountings and plumbing when I go E85.  The Walbro pump is 47 mm in diameter, so this will give me some room to use more rubber to isolate it. 

 

 

Bracket $4.50 USD. 

 

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Vibration mounts $1.87 free shipping from China

 

 

 

Rubber mounts to help with the vibration again. 

 

 

 

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Nice.

 

For the ECU to know what gear it's in, between ground speed and rpm you can write a math channel to determine gear.  Don't know if your ECU will do it, but easy way for data logging...

 

Along those lines, some of the fancy ECUs run traction control via 'rate of change.'  That is, if the engine revs accelerate too quickly, (faster than is possible with grip, user defined) then the TC kicks in.  No wheel speed sensors.  Again, don't know if your ECU will do it, but it's out there... 

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I believe more than 3 people are following you. Everytime I check in so much has gotten done. You really have a knack for seeing projects thru!

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Do you know what the turbo specs are?

 

What compression ratio are you running and what is your boost target?

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14 hours ago, xr4tic said:

Do you know what the turbo specs are?

 

What compression ratio are you running and what is your boost target?

I just got the turbo back. I will check with the folks at Turbonetics.  Everybody who sees it seems to get big eyed when I tell them it is going on a 2L motor, followed by a "well that should be some fun".  Here is the latest picks of the new system, I just got it back last night.


One thing that I need help determining is the oil flow.  I planned to put a line from the back of the cyl head to the inlet, and then put a 10An as a drain to the pan.   I have read that too much oil pressure will cause it to smoke, too little and I am looking at another $1200 to get it rebuilt.    Hopefully the ceramic bearing/cartridge is worth the extra cost. 

 

 

 

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On 11/2/2019 at 2:13 PM, GoGo Garnet said:

I believe more than 3 people are following you. Everytime I check in so much has gotten done. You really have a knack for seeing projects thru!

Thanks much, I am trying to push the pig though the python so to speak.  I am waiting to see what sort of deals there are on black Friday.  I am looking to Spartian for the 02 sensor (maybe 2) and the MS3 gold box form EFI source. 

 

I am looking at Christmas to get the MS installed,  tune it, then maybe Feb-March for the Turbo.  I have soooooo much going on with my business, so that seems at times pretty optimistic. 

 

 

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On 10/30/2019 at 6:23 AM, irdave said:

Nice.

 

For the ECU to know what gear it's in, between ground speed and rpm you can write a math channel to determine gear.  Don't know if your ECU will do it, but easy way for data logging...

 

Along those lines, some of the fancy ECUs run traction control via 'rate of change.'  That is, if the engine revs accelerate too quickly, (faster than is possible with grip, user defined) then the TC kicks in.  No wheel speed sensors.  Again, don't know if your ECU will do it, but it's out there... 

I can run traction control and from what I understand it works just like you said.  You can program it for a certain amount of slip.  The key to not blowing up your turbo is to use timing retard instead of fuel to remove power.  If you lean out your turbo then bang... clack clack then the whatever it sounds like when your bank account is being drained (cha-ching perhaps?).  

 

I am seriously looking at a fly by wire throttle setup. It saves me having to snake a cable though the engine compartment, and is the best safest option for traction control on these turbo motors. 

 

Edited by Dudeland

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