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One step at a time



So far I've put the fuel tank back in, rewrapped the wiring harness and taken all the brake parts off for reconditioning. But I've just now started taking photos so i'm going to jump in with this one of the firewall with insulation put in. 




The rotors back from machining:



New rubber parts for the callipers:



Bearings repacked, rotors and callipers back on:



The steel lines in and the reconditioned master cylinder mounted:




Took me weeks to get the various bits and pieces for the heater box and rebuild it, unfortunately I was having so much fun with it that I didn't take any photos! ;)
The pedal box and the pedals got a bit of a paint job and put back in.




The handbrake mount is so flimsy! You can see the crack in it already. The aim of this stage of my restoration has been to put things back together and get the car moving although it has been hard with scope creep getting the better of me at times. I'm aiming to just replace/fix things which are obviously broken or will break very soon, the handbrake mount is one of those things. First a shot of it with the nice cracks showing after the paint stripper, then a shot of the butchered welding job I did on it:






The handbrake cables were really stretched so I had to use 2 metal tubes as spacers to get the cables tight enough to lock the wheels. The handbrake switch is a bit of a joke, I have it adjusted now so that after one click of the handbrake lever the circuit is completed but I can see that it wouldn't take much to knock it out of adjustment. 

I haven't put the rubber boot back on so I'm not sure how it's going to go with the handbrake cable bolts sticking out so much, if it looks like it's going to rip the rubber I might have to undo it all, cut the bolts and shorten the spacer tubes.



The brakes have been bled and the steering box cleaned out and refilled. Without any oil in it the steering box had some spots which it felt pretty rough when turning it, it's much better now that it is full of oil but I'm not sure how it will on the road.



The steering wheel back in after doing the ball point pen mod for the horn contact



Welded the accelerator pedal mounts to the floor



Put sound insulation in







Preparing to take the head off




















Separated the engine from the gearbox.



And onto the stand











Sheared coolant drain plug.



Rest of the bolt is still in there.



Took the head off, the block looks ok, lots of carbon deposit on the piston tops.



The starter ring on the flywheel needs some attention.



The flywheel might need some machining.





The head looks ok, might get it pressure tested and cleaned.




The bottom end.



The oil pump chain is very loose and the replacement sprocket with 3 bolts is no longer available. I'm going to pull the engine out of the doner car and have a look at the oil pump on that and see if I can make a good one out of the two.



Here's the engine out of the doner car which came with the unfinished project car that I bought. I started this engine 11 years ago, it blow massive amounts of (white, from memory) smoke.







Here's a shot of block with the head removed and the gasket still on. Some of the holes in the gasket are blocked from all the rust deposits. I haven't taken too many engines apart but I was expecting to see some sort of damage in the gasket which would explain the smoking.



Here is the head, lots of rust and deposits in the coolant channels and some corroded edges getting pretty close to the cylinders on #2 and #3 maybe that's where the smoke was coming from?



After some scrubbing of the block here is what I found:



Piston #1 and #2 have these weird pitting going on, what could cause that? 


#2 seems to have been in battle at some point will lots of bruises.





88.87 is stamped on the top all the pistons even though it is hard to see in some because of all the pitting. I guess this block hasn't been bored before.


I could still see some patches of the cross hatching in the cylinder walls.





Finally to the reason I pulled the engine, to see if I could make a good oil pump out of the two. Unfortunately this car has exactly the same problem with the oil pump as the other one, the chain is pretty loose (although less so). I was hoping this one would have the later type pump with the one bolt sprocket, but no such luck. I might get a new chain and a bunch of shims to see if I can get the chain reasonably tight and then look out for a new oil pump in the future.DSC_1399.thumb.JPG.8be7821854a171412241845a2a3c6787.JPG


The pump internals themselves were still within spec, shame that sprocket is not available any more.




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Hello、 Inka Sam
Is the project going well?

The "cause of the extremely stretched wire" that I came up with is as follows.

■ Since the side brake bracket (rotating shaft) and the brake clearance adjustment bolt (rotating cam) do not rust and rotate, the hook position of the bracket will deviate from the proper position.

■ Insufficient lubrication of the wire itself.

I am currently adjusting the rear brake of the “1972 Automatic Right Handle” on the other side of the globe.




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Hi RH002AJ,

Yes the adjusting nuts on my rear brakes were rusted, I was really careful not to round their heads because I didn't want to replace the backing plate. So I applied WD40 and let it sit and also applyed heat before patiently rotating them while spraying more WD40, the rust started to come out and they became easier to turn. Once they were pretty smooth I applied some spray on silicon grease to keep out the moisture in the future. 


I think the fact that these adjusting bolts are exposed to the outside and they are in a tight spot with the wheels and tyres means that they often get rounded off.


Good point about the lubrication of the wire itself, I haven't done that but it might be a good time to do it with everything exposed right now.


I am upto my neck with engine parts currently as I took one engine apart and now it has been confirmed that the pistons need replacing, today i am going to check the pistons on the parts-car fingers crossed maybe they are useable and I could put one working engine into the car while I rebuild another with new parts.



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