Progress

Dudeland

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The fuel pump is in and wired, 02 sensor is installed. Coolant system buttoned up. 

 

Return line completed.  I have a -6 header fitting, but no space on the fuel pickup to put it, so I plumbed in the return to the breather pipe that the California cars have in the tank.   Not a permanent solution (I promise).   I am taking it first thing to my fabricator to install the 02 bung properly, and I will have him put in the -6 header when I am at it.  And have him check everything over to make sure it is safe. 

 

Wires are through the firewall, and it seems like a spaghetti monster has exploded under the dash.   I cleaned up the smog stuff, but am hesitant to take it all off, just in case there is something crucial there. I will have to read through the posts for de-smogging.   I will likely clean up the wires going to the MSD, as I was using the original coil wire (sans resistor). 

 

I got the wrong sensor adaptor for the carb, so will have to make due and get a -6 to -6 male to accommodate the fuel pressure sensor. 

 

The carb is just sitting there.  I need different bolts, as the plate kit came with SAE instead of metric screws to go into the intake.

 

The linkage is looking super easy to fabricate, with a couple of heim joints and threaded rod,  so I don't think I will need the Linx wire linkage.

 

So getting closer, perhaps I test fire by the weekend

 

Enjoy

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Great stuff! Glad the linkage looks easy; hope it remains that way! And don't be scared to test into the smog wiring with abandon; you 110% won't ever want it back, and it's easy to avoid the important stuff. In a non-tii, there are only 3 important wires that run across the firewall: green wire for the coil, black wire for the tach, and whatever color wire that runs to the oil pressure sensor. Isolate those and kill everything else!

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All looking great.  I know you said that plumbing into the breather pipe was not a permanent thing, so this is advice for when you change it.  Make sure the return goes back in the tank, and exits BELOW the fuel level.  Meaning, you should run a tube on the inside that exits near the bottom of the tank.  You don't want the return dropping in on top of the fuel level, causing more and more aeration as the fuel level drops.  The longer it runs this way, the more it will reduce the life of the pump, or even kill it outright.  -Luke @ Holley Tech

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11 hours ago, Holley Tech said:

All looking great.  I know you said that plumbing into the breather pipe was not a permanent thing, so this is advice for when you change it.  Make sure the return goes back in the tank, and exits BELOW the fuel level.  Meaning, you should run a tube on the inside that exits near the bottom of the tank.  You don't want the return dropping in on top of the fuel level, causing more and more aeration as the fuel level drops.  The longer it runs this way, the more it will reduce the life of the pump, or even kill it outright.  -Luke @ Holley Tech

I have  -6 to barb fitting to go in the tank. I will make sure that the return sits about a cm above the bottom of the tank.  I never let the tank get too empty. 

 

Another quick question:

 

If I have a distributor that has two open collector switches that output to ground (a "123" brand distributor). I have the ability to lock this out since it is digital and programmable.  What do I need to do in order to set it up so the Holley controls the timing?  I like the one-stop shop approach.  I was told that all I need to do is put a pull-up resistor in the circuit and it will output to 5V or 12V depending on what the Holley needs.   I know that this is a sort of oddball question.   I was saving it for my first tech call to Holley  :)

 

 

Here is a link to the website. 

 

https://www.123ignitionshop.com/gb/?gclid=CjwKCAjwpeXeBRA6EiwAyoJPKvYLroJzi56qsZDtTClq1EOew0bYGFvveQ2Hm_TgTzBehMeSgmvNxBoCkF0QAvD_BwE

 

 

 

 

image.thumb.png.0ab928e1b3f50393e0d80611f5f8a4e9.png

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Please temporarily cover positive terminal on battery! Looks ripe for a short on a loose fuel line. 

 

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It is actually the negative terminal.  But I will cover it regardless, I have done my fair share of shorting of wrenches on terminals. 

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12 hours ago, Dudeland said:

I have  -6 to barb fitting to go in the tank. I will make sure that the return sits about a cm above the bottom of the tank.  I never let the tank get too empty. 

 

Another quick question:

 

If I have a distributor that has two open collector switches that output to ground (a "123" brand distributor). I have the ability to lock this out since it is digital and programmable.  What do I need to do in order to set it up so the Holley controls the timing?  I like the one-stop shop approach.  I was told that all I need to do is put a pull-up resistor in the circuit and it will output to 5V or 12V depending on what the Holley needs.   I know that this is a sort of oddball question.   I was saving it for my first tech call to Holley  :)

 

 

Here is a link to the website. 

 

https://www.123ignitionshop.com/gb/?gclid=CjwKCAjwpeXeBRA6EiwAyoJPKvYLroJzi56qsZDtTClq1EOew0bYGFvveQ2Hm_TgTzBehMeSgmvNxBoCkF0QAvD_BwE

 

 

 

 

image.thumb.png.0ab928e1b3f50393e0d80611f5f8a4e9.png

 

I will do some research on this distributor and get back with you.  -Luke @ Holley Tech

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