Great stuff! Glad the linkage looks easy; hope it remains that way! And don't be scared to test into the smog wiring with abandon; you 110% won't ever want it back, and it's easy to avoid the important stuff. In a non-tii, there are only 3 important wires that run across the firewall: green wire for the coil, black wire for the tach, and whatever color wire that runs to the oil pressure sensor. Isolate those and kill everything else!

All looking great.  I know you said that plumbing into the breather pipe was not a permanent thing, so this is advice for when you change it.  Make sure the return goes back in the tank, and exits BELOW the fuel level.  Meaning, you should run a tube on the inside that exits near the bottom of the tank.  You don't want the return dropping in on top of the fuel level, causing more and more aeration as the fuel level drops.  The longer it runs this way, the more it will reduce the life of the pump, or even kill it outright.  -Luke @ Holley Tech

11 hours ago, Holley Tech said:

All looking great.  I know you said that plumbing into the breather pipe was not a permanent thing, so this is advice for when you change it.  Make sure the return goes back in the tank, and exits BELOW the fuel level.  Meaning, you should run a tube on the inside that exits near the bottom of the tank.  You don't want the return dropping in on top of the fuel level, causing more and more aeration as the fuel level drops.  The longer it runs this way, the more it will reduce the life of the pump, or even kill it outright.  -Luke @ Holley Tech

I have  -6 to barb fitting to go in the tank. I will make sure that the return sits about a cm above the bottom of the tank.  I never let the tank get too empty. 

Another quick question:

If I have a distributor that has two open collector switches that output to ground (a "123" brand distributor). I have the ability to lock this out since it is digital and programmable.  What do I need to do in order to set it up so the Holley controls the timing?  I like the one-stop shop approach.  I was told that all I need to do is put a pull-up resistor in the circuit and it will output to 5V or 12V depending on what the Holley needs.   I know that this is a sort of oddball question.   I was saving it for my first tech call to Holley 

Here is a link to the website. 

https://www.123ignitionshop.com/gb/?gclid=CjwKCAjwpeXeBRA6EiwAyoJPKvYLroJzi56qsZDtTClq1EOew0bYGFvveQ2Hm_TgTzBehMeSgmvNxBoCkF0QAvD_BwE

Please temporarily cover positive terminal on battery! Looks ripe for a short on a loose fuel line. 

It is actually the negative terminal.  But I will cover it regardless, I have done my fair share of shorting of wrenches on terminals. 

12 hours ago, Dudeland said:

I have  -6 to barb fitting to go in the tank. I will make sure that the return sits about a cm above the bottom of the tank.  I never let the tank get too empty. 

 

Another quick question:

 

If I have a distributor that has two open collector switches that output to ground (a "123" brand distributor). I have the ability to lock this out since it is digital and programmable.  What do I need to do in order to set it up so the Holley controls the timing?  I like the one-stop shop approach.  I was told that all I need to do is put a pull-up resistor in the circuit and it will output to 5V or 12V depending on what the Holley needs.   I know that this is a sort of oddball question.   I was saving it for my first tech call to Holley 

 

 

Here is a link to the website. 

 

https://www.123ignitionshop.com/gb/?gclid=CjwKCAjwpeXeBRA6EiwAyoJPKvYLroJzi56qsZDtTClq1EOew0bYGFvveQ2Hm_TgTzBehMeSgmvNxBoCkF0QAvD_BwE

 

 

 

 

I will do some research on this distributor and get back with you.  -Luke @ Holley Tech