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heinemann

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After finally starting the car, there was a horrible screeching sound coming from the back off the engine. Really no way to diagnose the problem without removing the engine and transmission again. I ended up pretty much disassembling the entire car: exhaust, driveshaft, fuel lines, hoses, engine, transmission, radiator, engine wiring harness.

I discovered that the shaft collar for the throw-out / release bearing was contacting the splined part of the spring pack on the clutch friction disc.

 

I contacted gripforce clutches and they confirmed that the friction disc needs to be installed with the spring pack facing the flywheel into the recessed portion of the flywheel, which is not typical. The clutch kit only comes with generic instructions showing the spring pack of the friction disc facing away from the flywheel. After making sure that the release bearing slid freely on the collar, everything clutch related went back on the engine and torqued to spec.

 

Getting the engine back in. My first approach was to install it form the bottom, but that was huge pain. So, I rigged the engine differently to the hoist and installed the engine from the top, and then installed the transmission from the bottom. The 10 foot steel cable was used as a safety just in case the bolt holding the engine to the chain gave way. Then, I reinstalled the driveshaft and then the exhaust... again!

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I ordered an O2 plug which will be installed when it arrives this week.

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Installing the engine this way is so much easier. Right now, I am using a cheapy parts store ignition switch to start the car, which I will swap out once I get the new part. Now, I have to clean up the wiring... again. But hey it runs! There is link below to a pretty crude video of the engine running. Dust blowing everywhere as I rev the engine. I am leaving the flares, front spoiler, and hood off or now. They will be the last things to go on the car, which should be very soon.

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BMW 2002 S54 Swap 480p.mov

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Do you by chance have this whole build in a complete post or perhaps a PDF?  I have access to a complete wrecked e46/M3 S54B32 I6 car/engine and the related components.  It looks like that you did a lot to make it work, but I need to know more and I although I looked at everything that you posted here, but there is a lot missing (that I can find anyway).  I have a 1973 2002 automatic car that will be used for this project.

 

You can direct me to your various build postings on the FAQ or you can email direct, if you prefer. <dmtazman@yahoo.com> or <davidmathew001@yahoo.com>  

 

TIA. for any help that you can provide.

 

Respectfully,

 

David Matthew

 

P.S.  Excellent build on your part.

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Hi David,

This build thread is the most comprehensive documentation of the project.

 

The biggest challenges are dealing with the length of the s54. I wanted it to sit farther back into the car rather than hanging out over the front crossmember. Most swap the m20 by taking out the front bulk head and rad support and hood support, which I was not willing to do. Thus is what will force you to rebuild the firewall and trans tunnel, which creates problems with the gas pedal clearance.  Selling the s54 and getting an s62 might be a better option. 

 

Many issues I created for myself because I was unwilling to give up having a heater. It really depends how much you want to cut up your car. 

 

If you are going to proceed,  go drive-by-wire. Getting the itbs to open like a regular car with smooth accusation has been a huge challenge. 

 

If you use the s54 air box, plan on going manual brakes and rebuilding the entire braking system.

 

The 5 lug conversion is absolutely not worth the trouble. Just gusset the front spindles and call it good.

 

The drag link for the crossover steering will Get into the oil pan if sticking with manual steering,  so plan on clearencing it. 

 

The rear: couple options would be to swap in an e30 rear.  You will need to either change body pick up points, which puts you into the rockers or change the mounts on the subframe. both options are a pain.

 

A complete rear swap from I think garagtastic or 02Haus,  I forgot who makes it is another option.  It's a cool piece of kit,  but imho not worth what they are asking. In fact, I think their price is absurd considering I can by two entire long arm suspension systems for my jeep for what they are asking for their rear setup. I'd spend my money elsewhere. Lastly,  an e30 rear does change the track width,  which can cause problems depending on wheel choice. 

 

The drive shift you can get by measuring the diff flange to guibo length,  going to realoem and getting the specks from cars of similar size. Think I used one from a z3. RealOem list the lengths of the driveshafts in mm for all bmws. Just lop off the carrier bearing mounts from the trans tunnel and weld them in where the newer driveshaft requires. Also, the drive shift should be a few mm shorter than the measured length between guibo and diff flange to allow for slip in the system due to driveline flex.

 

The transmission from the e46 M3 is big and not rebuildable. Options are to go with a 5 speed from an e36 or have an adapter made for a tremec.

 

Many of my choices where due to budget,  so that created challenges that probably could have been solved by throwing money at it. 

 

Fuel system: I baffled the gas tank and used an e30 suction unit,  but using a fuel cell below the trunk floor would allow for more muffler options. 

 

Lots of trial and error is going to be normal. Waiting on parts is a huge time suck, so plan for that. Also,  don't expect help from any professional bmw,  2002, or aftermarket supplier.  In my experience,  they will not answer your questions about how they accomplish things like 5 lug swaps,  hood struts,  etc.

 

Think that's all for now. If you have other questions let me know, and post them here so others can follow. 

 

Thanks for checking out the thread.

 

Sorry for typos, sent from my phone. 

 

 

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