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Engine Bay wiring and front harness


Meintii

1,376 views

The front harness and engine wiring has been a long time issue that I've been chomping at the bit to dive into for years. The original wiring that ran to the headlights, turn signals, alternator etc was all ridden with wear through and old randomly splices connections, and it's been driving me crazy. So I decided to replace it all all the way back to the fuse block with modern “TXL” lightweight wire from wirebarn.com and adhesive heat shrink connections, as well as all new connector to the headlights and everything else. Another goal in doing this was to get it out of the engine bay to make for a much cleaner looking install.

 

TXL Wire, highly recommended for automotive wiring.

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I removed the old harness from the car, and ran string as the “wires” in my new routing from the fuse box through the fender, through the nose and across the inside of the bottom of the nose.

After laying out each wires’ “string” I bundled and labeled them and removed all of them as a harness. I then spread the string out on an old tack board I had and marked where each wire would be terminated. After that it's as easy as replacing each string with the proper wire color/size, and cutting to length.

 

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After I drilled a few very large holes for appropriately sized grommets I ran the wire through and used UV resistant zip ties ($$) and cradles to mount the wires where I wanted them through the fender and into the nose.Then I set to wrapping them with my split loom wire covering. Normally you would loom and add the connectors to the harness while it's still laid out on your string board, but since I'm using split loom I decided to do it once it was on the car.

 

After making one central ground location for everything on the front end with a rivet nut and a bolt it's all pretty much ready to go.  

 

I then set out to re-loom the stock e30 harness in the sections that run up to the relays and a few spots where the original covering was so stiff it cracked when you tried to move it.

 

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See pics for the type of adhesive heat shrink I used, as well as the heat shrink connectors and ceramic headlight connectors.

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Spade connectors with built in adhesive heatshrink

 

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Adhesive heatshrink and non- insulated butt connectors for tapping into the stock harness

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I will take some better pictures and show how I ran the wires through the fender and nose, as well as how Im securing them.

 

Once all of that was out of the way it was time to move on to the radiator.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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