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The road to on the road after 18 years rest...

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After a long break not making progress because I was very hesitant to get the underside and truck area primed and painted, I finally got it done. Weather conditions have been very windy but I just picked a day and did it. Not the best job but certainly a lot better than it was. A couple shots of newly painted areas...

And now after installing the rear end I realized that one of the control arm holes in the rear end bracket is elongated! How serious is this and what to do about it? I assume welding a bracket on the outside is the correct solution. Any comments would be appreciated. See photo.

Also, after installing the drive shaft with two new front guibo's, I see that there is a large gap between the rear guibo and the flange. I did move the center bearing bracket towards the front a tiny bit to put pressure on the tranny but certainly not a 1/4"! Nothing else has changed. Any ideas where the slack came from?

I am certainly looking forward to getting the rear end all back in the car soon. I drove the car only about 1 mile total since getting it and all these improvements should make a huge difference!


blog-0503712001397843686.jpgblog-0503712001397843686.jpgblog-0503712001397843686.jpgblog-0503712001397843686.jpgblog-0503712001397843686.jpgblog-0503712001397843686.jpgblog-0503712001397843686.jpgAs I'm waiting for suspension parts to arrive, some from Germany, I am prepping undercarriage, trunk, and parts ready for reassembly. I decided to apply two coats of paintable, rubberized undercoating under car and in wheel wells (only 1 coat in photos below). I used seam sealer first to seal all areas in need. I plan to paint the underneath with Sahara car color. The trunk was in decent shape and I spend some good time cleaning it out with degreaser, and hot soapy water. I treated the areas of rust using the POR15 system and it seems very solid.

Gas tank came out and it turns out the dent in the bottom damaged the sending unit somewhat. The sending unit had a slight bulge on the bottom and I had to force it out. I straightened the tank using the rubber handle of a hammer and gave it a good 6 or 7 blows. The sending unit now seats properly and can be locked in place whereas before the sending unit was bottoming out on the dent and would not seat and lock properly.

Received beautiful stainless brake lines from Ireland Engineering... Really nice product! Photos are worth a 1000 words so here you go...

oh, I am having the dual Weber 40 DCOE's completely revamped and take a look at the sweet linkage setup my go to Datsun 240Z guy is putting together...


blog-0118900001396795761.jpgblog-0118900001396795761.jpgblog-0118900001396795761.jpgblog-0118900001396795761.jpgblog-0118900001396795761.jpgblog-0118900001396795761.jpgblog-0118900001396795761.jpgNow that the car is running quite well, I need to make the car safe to drive. And to be more fun. The brakes need complete overhauling as does the suspension front and rear. New bushings everywhere, and typical part replacement, and upgraded shocks, springs, and larger sway bars are the plan.

The rear teardown. I decided to do the rear end first. Seems a bit easier than the front and I didn't want to take on too much at one time. I haven't done this much work on a car since high school in 1970...

I purchased a Haynes manual, and I have a photocopy of an original service manual. The manuals make the extraction sound pretty easy. I just had to figure out what parts they were talking about. But common sense prevailed and over 2 partial days, maybe 3, I had the complete sub frame out. It was covered in about 1/2" of grease and grime but using a power washer and lots of degreaser and gasoline, I was able to get it pretty clean.

I decided too to try and get the underside as clean as possible to see what I have there and make any repairs that I need to. The car is VERY solid and besides the seam sealer failing in the wheel well on the passenger side, the underneath seems near perfect.

I do have a question about what is there though. The wheel wells definitely have undercoating covered with paint. The underside seems to only have some brown gunk remnants here and there but mostly just painted smooth metal. See last photo below. I would like to keep the underside Sahara as it was. What is the best protection to apply? Paintable rubberized undercoating? And then maybe a single stage paint?


blog-0984687001396737651.jpgblog-0984687001396737651.jpgblog-0984687001396737651.jpgblog-0984687001396737651.jpgblog-0984687001396737651.jpgblog-0984687001396737651.jpgblog-0984687001396737651.jpgGot the car to the back yard where it will rest for awhile... First thing I needed was a battery. My car is 6V but they had one down at O'Reillys. I pulled spark plugs... looked decent. Checked points... A little pitting but not bad. Wires were, well, over 18 years old. Ordered all tune up parts. They sent me 12V coil and points were wrong. Turned the car over by hand and it turned quite easy. Changed the oil... Figured I could try turning it over with the battery. Turned over fine but nothing. Maybe a tiny try firing. Did a lot of forum searching and questions and what I found was the distributor was in in such a way that when I tried to time it the vacuum "cap" would hit the firewall. I figured the distributor was in 90 degrees out or so. Tried to get the distributor out but it wouldn't budge. Tried other things... Made sure it was getting gas. Cleared the fuel line from the tank. Put fresh gas in the tank. Fuel pump needed priming but then worked. I would get a little firing and finally it would start. I could keep it going by using choke, pumping gas, etc, but the revs were all over the place. Sort of like free revving. I give it gas and it would slowly return back down to idle. To make a long story shorter, I finally got the distributor out with a little gently prying and pulling. The O'ring was very brittle and basically disintegrated. It turns out the under the o'ring, the distributor housing was cracked all the way around! I was lucky to find another distributor locally which was not exactly like mine but very close. Got that in and the car ran better. Took a compression test and I had 151, 128, 149, and 150.

Good enough to run 2 blocks to my mechanic. The carb needed be completely rebuilt. The valves were adjusted. All tune up parts installed. Compression test was much better... valve adjustment helped this??

And the car runs good! Pretty happy camper. Next is suspension and brakes. Rear brake cylinders very poor, all bushings shot, shocks shot, etc.

Got it back to the back yard and started stripping out the rear sub frame... Will post info and photos, next entry. Below is a shot of the distributor housing... This probably happened 18 years ago and was why the car ended up sitting. Very hard to spot unless you removed the o'ring!


The Find...

blog-0524795001396720489.jpgblog-0524795001396720489.jpgblog-0524795001396720489.jpgblog-0524795001396720489.jpgblog-0524795001396720489.jpgblog-0524795001396720489.jpgblog-0524795001396720489.jpgFirst blog... just keeping a log of what I am doing with my new acquisition. These entries seem to list with newest entries on top...

A little about me...

Beginner mechanic - 45 years. Mostly worked on my first car, '61 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite, from 1969-1972. Engine replacement, bodywork, paint, etc. Lasted all through high school. Worked on a variety of cars ever since. New to BMW 2002's! This is biggest project ever...

A little about my find...

Just internet surfing as usual looking at cars. My sons and I love cars and are always just looking. We have an assortment of old British cars and Japanese cars but when I saw the ad for a '67 BMW 1600-2 looking all pretty in a Red Rocks, NV, setting, for a price of $1250, I knew something was wrong. Turns out it was a photo of someone else's car in VERY good condition. In the same ad there was another 1600-2 with an asking price of $48K! I have liked the 2002's forever but never was introduced to them... For the heck of it I emailed the seller asking if the price of $1250 was because the car was in a wreck or what... I suspected a zero was missing from the listing. Also, I asked where was the car? The photo was definitely NV! He emailed back explaining that the car was in fact in Sunnyvale (one hour from where I live), and that the car has been sitting in his garage for 18 years. It started acting up and stopped running way back when and after fiddling for a bit he just ended up forgetting about it since he had another vehicle and a motorcycle.

He verified the price and said the car was in solid shape, needed work, had koni's, and had a pair of Webers in a box. I made arrangements to go see the car with my son. I expected to see the car that was in the photo but it was quite a bit rougher. The car seemed solid, had primed panels as you can see, the valve cover was off, just the way he left it 18 years prior, and had most parts intact.

He told me he researched more about the Webers and he said they alone were worth $1100 but he would honor the sale price. If I didn't buy the car he would sell the Webers separately.

My son and I decided it would be a fun car to just see if we could get it running and see from there. We purchased the car and had the car towed to my home the next day.

More to come...

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