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Door Lock Renewal

One major thing I've needed to sort since purchasing is being able to lock the thing. PO fitted a keyless entry/alarm system that works fine, it's just that the hazards start flashing about a minute after locking. Checked all the wiring, looked for backup batteries etc, can't seem to solve this issue.


So plan B is to fit some working door locks. Seems the drivers side is completely missing a lock and is blocked up with a rubber bung:




...while the passenger door does have a lock, only I don't have a key that opens it.

So I picked up a spare set of handles and locks, dropped then off to my local locksmith and had them rekeyed to match my ignition key. Presto:




Installation time. Took off the passenger trim. RHD don't forget. Sadly, at some point the plastic water proof film has been removed, so the door cards are horrible.


Currently sourcing some replacements. Remote locking actuators can be seen bottom left.




Fitting the new locks very straight forward, just a matter to removing the old and reinstalling the new. Waiting on some rubber seals, passenger side was missing these entirely. Door has been (badly) repainted at some point, with the handles still fitted.




Good news is that the door itself is solid. I had been worried about this door being very rusty on account of some flaking bog around the hinges. When I had the interior trim off I was able to take a good look inside and all seems ok. Front edge of the door is a little beaten up (accident damage?) and appears to have been smoothed over with copious bog. No rust though.


Drivers door. Same story, no water proofing and shot door cards. Interior vinyl is still ok, hopefully this can be saved.




So now it has working door locks. Bonus is that the keyless entry system is wired up to have drivers door as a master, so when I lock/unlock the drivers door with the key, the passenger door also locks/unlocks.


Led Gauges

After taking my gauges apart for a clean I realised quite a few bulbs had blown and the bulb behind the big red warning light was missing altogether.


So I got myself some goodies in the mail from superbrightleds




1x WLED-x6: 194 LED Bulb - 6 LED Wedge Base, WLED-G6: Green

1x WLED-x6: 194 LED Bulb - 6 LED Wedge Base, WLED-A6: Amber

2x WLED-x6: 194 LED Bulb - 6 LED Wedge Base, WLED-R6: Red

1x WLED-x6: 194 LED Bulb - 6 LED Wedge Base, WLED-B6: Blue

4x WLED-x5: 194 LED Bulb - 5 LED Wide Angle Wedge Base, WLED-NW5: Natural White


Coloured bulbs look like this. Each 'bulb' has 6-LEDs set at a narrow angle to direct light straight out of the cluster:




For the four natural white 'bulbs' I chose to use wide angle versions to cast the background gauge lighting. These have 5-LEDs, one bulb directing light vertically, with four others casting wide light:




Fitting is very simple once you have the cluster out.




Though I found that after taking everything apart to clean the gauges and glass and then putting it all back together again that the LEDs for the tacho background lighting didn't fit through the holes. As you can see, the 'bulb' is bigger than hole. So apart it came and I fitted the 'bulbs' from the reverse side.




All sorted and small wiring harness reinstalled. I am missing one bulb holder (bottom right), will source one of these later when I do a full cluster restore.




All installed and tested. Lights are much brighter - though not too much so.




Red warning light lights up properly when the handbrake is on, though it never quite extinguishes when the car is running. Very dim, yet still there. Thinking it could be a bad ground or something, another thing on the list to check later.


When I received the tii, the engine and gearbox were coated in oil and muck.


After a thorough degreasing I found that while there didn't seem to be any serious leaks, there was some muck above the starter motor and on the breather hose between valve cover and air intake. After taking off the breather hose, I discovered this:




At first I thought the hose had sprung a leak. Lots of fresh and old oil around this area, clearly coming from this little hole. After much research it turns out this hole is supposed to be used for a small nipple for a vacuum host that connects up to the throttle body.


A quick look under the intake tubes reveals that this inlet has been blocked off with a red blanking piece:




Consulting realoem, the bits are supposed to look like so. Parts 3 and 4 are the ones I'm missing. Not referenced on realoem therefore would assume they're NLA.




A quick trip to the parts store and I have these:






Test fit, I subsequently recut the hose nice and square:




Had to trim the connector so it would fit properly:




Here's the hose information, if anyone is interested.




Left the hose quite long as I wasn't sure how hard it was going to be to fit without removing the intake runners. A pain to fit the hose onto the throttle body in such tight confines, leaving the hose long made it a little easier.


The vacuum connecter used is not ideal. The fit is a too loose for my liking though had little other option. Would more than likely be a better fit if I was using a new breather hose (part #11151252665). If anyone has a source for the original connector/nipple piece - I'd be very interested.


Verdict: No more oil in the general area after a good 1hr drive last night. Downside is that the car now seems much more reluctant to start. Before fitting it always started first time, whereas now there is more of a stutter and actually failed to fire a few times. Lots of (black) oil and muck sprayed out the exhaust in the garage the first time I started up, not since giving her a good run. Engine idle and performance through the rev range seems unchanged.


- More photos and info (my2002tii.com)

- Part numbers and diagram (realoem)


Shifter Bushing Renewal

Using the SH02 Shifter Housing Bushing Set for BMW 2002 from AKG Motorsport.


AKG website mentions that they're made from Delrin, though they are in fact Polyurethane 75D spec. AKG have a page explaining the pros/cons of Delrin vs 75D.


Jacked the car up at the front and put her onto axle stands. Crawled underneath and removed the rod (part 25111201238) that supports the shifting arm (the large pressed metal plate that extends out from the gearbox to the shifter location).


Rod is held by two bolts. One long bolt on the lower/transmission end where the bushings will be installed. Another short nut/bolt on the higher end furthest from the transmission. Both bolts are 13mm, I used a pair of ring spanners to undo everything.




⬆photo.1: Rod covered in oil and grime, looks wet as I just sprayed it with some degreaser. Spot the original bushing in place, metal-rubber-metal.


The rubber was all sticky and mushy, understandable based on the amount of leaked engine oil it was swimming in.


Managed to scrape most of this goo out and pulled the inner metal piece out with a pair of pliers.




⬆photo.2: Once the inner metal part of the bushing was pulled out, I continued to scrape the rubber mush away and was left with the metal outer band locked tight into the rod.


Damage to the rod most likely caused by a guibo letting to at some point and smashing against this bracket. I'll likely get a replacement part when I pull the gearbox.




⬆photo.3: another view of the remains on the original bushing. Outer metal part is stuck fast to the rod.




⬆photo.4: Tried several times to drive the old bushing out with a hammer and chisel. Even tried heating the whole thing up over a flame to get it moving. No dice.


Ended up using a hacksaw to carefully cut the bushing through in two places.




⬆photo.5: As soon as the second cut was made, what remained of the original bushing slid right out.




⬆photo.6: Installing the new AKG Motorsport SH02 Shifter Bushing set. Push them in either side.








⬆photo.7: Done.


I have a few other bits from AKG yet to install, might leave these until I pull the gearbox.


Cleanup Begins


Four-spoke steering wheel, odd for a '72 model?




RH rear sill, looks a little nasty. Fitted with oversill repair panel, note overspray on the sill cover.




RH rear quarter. Bumper is pretty tight against the body work, thick paint and bog evident in that seam area. Model badge installed poorly with d/s tape, could even be a Model 73 piece rather than a correct 71 one.




Snorkel piece suggests a new nose at some point (or does it?). Front bumpers squashed up against the body work. Both struts missing their covers, bearings underneath are pretty grubby.




Lifted out the rear bench, lots of disintegrated rubberised horse hair dust and other random objects long lost under the seat.




Obligatory shot of the gathered under-rear-seat haul of crap and miscellaneous fallen off bits. Anyone need a pen?




Cleans up alright, pretty clean underneath.


So I Emailed BMW Classic

Prerequisite BMW Group Archive email:

The BMW 2002 tii rhd VIN 2751340 was manufactured on December 13th, 1972 and delivered the same day to Great Britain. The original colour was Atlantik, paint code 041.

As Purchased





Very original RHD 2002tii in Melbourne, Australia.


4-speed, black vinyl/white cloth seats. Has a later Model 73 style steering wheel, not sure if this is original. PO fitted an alarm, immobiliser and central locking.


Lots of TLC needed to get her back into shape. Runs beautifully, starts every time, stays nice and cool and no smoke.


On the immediate to-do list:


  • Spare wheel well has the usual rust
  • RH rear sill has some rust showing through
  • RH rear corner seems to have some badly repaired accident damage. Expecting lots of bog/bondo under that paint
  • LH door frame is shot and needs replacement Nope, actually it looks ok, just coated in bog for some reason?!?!
  • Paint on upper surfaces is badly sun damaged


Planning to get the body right, then get stuck into refreshing all the running gear.