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Beginners Build 2002

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Slowly Moving Forward

I haven't had much to update for awhile, so I thought I would post one. After getting heat in my detached garage, I was finally able to get the pedal box, steering box and brake parts all out. I had been patiently waiting for floor pans and a trunk pan to come from Colorado, but after 3 months I realized they were never coming and have finally asked for my money back and ordered parts from Germany. If there is one thing I have learned through this process, it is that if you don't have the parts in a few weeks, you wont have them in a few months either :)

As soon as the body parts get here, she is ready to be delivered to the welder and body man. I hope that process goes smoother than the previous one.


blog-0484409001381771298.jpgblog-0484409001381771298.jpgblog-0484409001381771298.jpgblog-0484409001381771298.jpgblog-0484409001381771298.jpgblog-0484409001381771298.jpgblog-0484409001381771298.jpgIn my last post I indicated that the motor would be pulled "in the next few weeks". If you are anything like me (Read: Busy Dad) then then you know when you make statements like that, then life happens. Finally we were able to get together and make this happen.We decided to pull the motor and the transmission as one unit. While I had thought that I had everything disconnected, there were still a few things that I had to take care of quickly while the others were busy doing the hard work. Remember not to forget these things: Speedometer cable and the shifter. :wacko: Also, we did end up removing the distributor at the 11th hour. There just wasn't quite enough room for it to clear. The motor mounts were a pain. We ended up removing them completely before we could get the whole thing lose. After that it was smooth sailing. The tie rod makes an excellent resting point for the transmission if you get to a holding point.

So now that the motor is out and I can start tearing it down, a few questions remain: Will I go to a 2 carb set-up or stick with a single? Will I try to find a 5 speed transmission and ditch the current 4-speed? As always, comments are welcome :)



blog-0109344001377795590.jpgblog-0109344001377795590.jpgblog-0109344001377795590.jpgblog-0109344001377795590.jpgblog-0109344001377795590.jpgblog-0109344001377795590.jpgblog-0109344001377795590.jpgIn the next week or so I will be pulling the engine from "Fernanda". You might be wondering how in the world I came up with that name? The name means adventurous, bold journey. I could not have picked a better definition for what I am in the middle of :) Anyway, I spent this past weekend prepping the motor for removal. That means all the hoses and lines were disconnected and labeled. I also pulled the radiator and the alternator. I took lots of pictures to document this process. I also followed the Haynes manual step by step during this process. This is a must for anyone working on these cars. Just a fair warning that the pictures are old and the printing isn't very well done because of the age of the photo files. However, it does give good reference points. This gives me two different types of documentation; pictures and labeling as well as the manual.

I am going to attempt to pull both motor and the transmission together. I have been told that I need to be able to angle the motor at a pretty good degree in order to be able to pull them both and that the car's front end will need to be sitting up pretty high. You can bet that I will be combing the blogs and entries on this site for further tips. Wish me luck!



As I have some time in my evenings, which is growing more difficult since school started, I have started to remove body parts. The trunk and hood are off. The left fender is off because it has a rust spot deep enough that it will be better to replace than to repair. If you happened to have one of these you are willing to part with, please hit me up. The hood removal is really a two person job. I am not sure there is a right way to take it off, so I started with the front mounts. Once those were lose, we closed the hood and removed the hinge pieces. My son was there in the front holding the hood in place while I removed the bolts.The bumper needs to be partially taken off to remove the fender, as does the hood. The fender was easier than I thought it was going to be, which makes me think it has been removed before. Don't forget the trim pieces! I had the fender most of the way off before I remembered the bottom trim piece that goes along along the rocker panels. Oops! I was able to get all the trim removed without destroying anything. Just remember to use a rubber scraper to remove this so you don't ruin the trim pieces or your paint (if you care about such things).

So now my garage is filling up fast and I am running out of room. I have a storage shed that will house the body parts until I am ready for them again. The next step is to get the motor ready to be pulled :)blogentry-45402-0-44579000-1377183416_thblogentry-45402-0-00106600-1377183426_th


Black Tape

blog-0958456001376877795.jpgblog-0958456001376877795.jpgblog-0958456001376877795.jpgblog-0958456001376877795.jpgblog-0958456001376877795.jpgblog-0958456001376877795.jpgblog-0958456001376877795.jpgThis weekend I had a little extra time for my project. After my pal Sam and I put together a plan for the welding and paint, I decided I was going to start taking everything apart, preparing the car for the welding, body and paint work. I spent a little more time in the back scraping off the sound deadening material from the firewall and shock towers. While the towers are not desirable, there is still quite a bit of base metal there to work with. After doing this for a few hours, I went to the trunk where my son and I removed the gas tank. This was harder than it sounds. The screws holding the gas tank to the trunk pan were rusted up and were a little hard to break loose. They are attached with a welded nut (for lack of the better word). I didn't remember to use the Liquid Wrench until after breaking the first nut away from the body. Once that happens, have fun getting a pair of pliers in there between the bottom of the gas tank and the rear tire to hold the nut into place (speaking from experience). After that the tail and marker lights came out, as well as the trunk lid.

Part of my day also went to ensuring all of my parts were organized. Labeled baggies with all the screws, bolts and connectors are sitting in order on the work table. My work table is 8' x 4' and was built specifically for this project; keeping in mind that I would need a large work area to lay parts out.

As I was taking the tail lights out, I remembered back when I was a kid installing stereo systems. Black tape was a real no no. I always wanted to do it right using wire connectors. Apparently the person who owned this car previously had never heard of those. I discovered quite a bit of black tape between the tail lights and rear markers. It also reminded me to take my time and make sure this project is done right, rather than just throwing it together with black tape.



blog-0885195001376261323.jpgblog-0885195001376261323.jpgblog-0885195001376261323.jpgblog-0885195001376261323.jpgblog-0885195001376261323.jpgblog-0885195001376261323.jpgblog-0885195001376261323.jpgblogentry-45402-0-12946700-1376427216_thI have been told that even a professional will find things about an old car that will blow his mind. I consider myself a rookie, and what I found today really blew my mind. Do you remember watching the Flintstones? Remember how Fred and Barney used to run down the road with their feet propelling the car? Ladies and Gentleman, welcome to the Flintstones. Before we get to that, lets talk about removing carpet and sound deadening material.

Before I removed the front carpet, I spent some time getting the sound deadening material out of the back. I read a couple of entries and watched a few YouTube videos about dry ice and electronic freeze spray. In the end, a torch and scrapper worked best for me. It's always better as a two man job. My son and I traded scrapping and torch duties. As you can see in the pics, the rear floor is pretty clean, but of course the shock towers are in desperate need of repair. I knew it was going to be bad, but not that bad. On to the front! Since I am changing interior colors, the carpet came out easier than if I was going to reuse. Kick panels come off, seat belts come out, console and shift boot and knob. One of the good things about older cars is that everything in the interior was held together by screws. No clips to worry about breaking when you are pulling stuff out. Also something I learned, when dealing with rust, no shop vac is too big.

After the carpet was out, the shock kind of set in. As you can see, the only thing keeping the drivers feet from going to the ground was the frame rail, which is still solid (thank goodness). There was lots of rust up front, with the deadening material the only thing keeping the elements out. How can a car that looks so good on the outside be such a rust bucket? If anything, I have learned what to look for in future projects. Take your time and inspect the crucial areas, no matter how low the sale price on the car is. Otherwise you might be doing a Fred Flintstone as he cruises down the highway. That might not end as well for you as it did for Fred.blogentry-45402-0-72044200-1376260859_thblogentry-45402-0-57395100-1376260987_thblogentry-45402-0-00040300-1376261060_thblogentry-45402-0-68176900-1376261129_thblogentry-45402-0-08605300-1376260903_thblogentry-45402-0-67451900-1376261017_thblogentry-45402-0-41212700-1376261098_thblogentry-45402-0-19996600-1376261169_thblogentry-45402-0-91713600-1376261275_th

blog-0864108001376143734.jpgblog-0864108001376143734.jpgblog-0864108001376143734.jpgblog-0864108001376143734.jpgblog-0864108001376143734.jpgblog-0864108001376143734.jpgblog-0864108001376143734.jpgSo, after a fellow member reached out to me about the potential size and cost of my project, I decided to see if it was really meant to be. If the the car sells, it's not meant to be. If it doesn't sell, then it's time to plunge onward. I am here and it is time to plunge onward. This morning I started pulling out the interior. The seats came out and everything underneath the rear seat was vacuumed. A few tips on pulling out the rear seat. The bottom seat does have a single bolt towards the middle that holds it the body. This must come out. After that, you can pull up on the seat and it comes right out. The top seat is attached by two separate metal screws. After 37 years, it may take some doing to get the screws to come out. WD40 and some patience work really good. Once those screws are out you pull from the top and wiggle the top seat upward. Once it comes up a few inches, you can then pull forward and pull the bottom seat out. Once the seats are out, and everything is vacuumed up, it is time to inspect...... blogentry-45402-0-48045700-1376143307_thblogentry-45402-0-51811700-1376143340_thblogentry-45402-0-58325200-1376143359_thblogentry-45402-0-88532300-1376143396_thblogentry-45402-0-49137000-1376143457_th

When I bought the car, the wiper motors were working intermittently. By the 3rd day of ownership, they quit working all together. I could hear the motor attempting to turn, and the fuse and electrical connections were fine. After some research I found a how to piece on how to attempt greasing and oiling the wiper motor before buying a new one. This link below from Tom's BMW 2002 Repair details step by step on how to pull the motor, grease the bearing and oil the gear. It's a pretty easy process, but be careful to pull the motor straight out when taking the motor apart. See the link below. Pay special attention that your wipers are parked correctly before pulling them off the spindles.

This step by step worked great and the wipers are working fine now.

Please note that I do not have pictures of my car in this process as I am documenting this from the past to present. The next project I will document (alternator issues) will have pictures with step by step.


As you probably know, the older type BMW badges are painted and unsealed, which means that many years of sun damage can make the blue roundels disappear. I just couldn't stand it and ordered two new ones right away right after I brought home my new project. They are a bit pricier than the newer badges, but compliment the older style of the car very well.

The process to remove the badges is as easy as using a rubber shim to pry the badges away from the trunk or hood metal. Be sure to place a towel down as not to scratch any of the paint. The badges should come out with no problem (there is even a YouTube video on this). The trick is to get the grommets out without disintegrating them and leaving pieces in the hole. The trunk ones were easy, the hood ones? Not so much :). Once they are out, the install is easy, as the grommets go right in and the badges snap into place with a push.

Be sure to order two sets of grommets. Also note that the rear roundel is different than the front on a 2002.

Cost of grommets and roundels = $57.33



I bought my first BMW 2002 3 weeks ago, this model being a 1976 Verona base coupe with 4 speed trans. Paint is decent, left front fender had been replaced at some point in time, numbers matching motor with Solex carb. Engine runs strong, but has a small oil leak. Alternator squeals at 4,000 RPM (more on that later). Both front floor pans need to be replaced, rear shock towers need need a little work, but overall a good candidate for a resto-mod.

This blog is intended to help me keep track of my build and to help those who have questions who may in the future be in the same boat. Although this is my first BMW build, I have had an Triumph TR7 (bad idea), a Midget MG (another bad idea) and a few other domestic cars worth playing with. I consider myself very much a beginner and will draw from others expertise when going down this path. My daily drivers have been Acuras, BMW's (most recently an E90 with the N54 engine) and several others not worth mentioning.

As I continue this blog, I will post photos and general statements of the work I have done as it is being done. If you are reading this, thanks for your time.

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